my seal finally blew. in case people would like to know the symptoms. no coolant smell in exhaust overflo pissing coolant. and when i burped the system the other day i discovered exhaust coming out of the rad. so it was like the opposite of what normally happens. well it wasn't bad but. just kinda went its sad cause it still runs and drives 100% lol w/e time to rebuild any step by step threads for a s4 n/a rebuild. and i wasn't even racing it i've been taking it ez o well

 

There are a number of good videos that walk you through the rebuild process. Mazdatrix.com has one as do some other sites. Do a search of the forum for more sites. Best bet for showing you how to do a proper rebuild.

 

Is it overheating now, and I know how it feels. lol.
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/
You might also be better off buying a rebuild video from atkins rotary.

 

Fixed. ****.


It is hard. When you, type. in english. Like. this for people to understand **** you are trying to say I am not a grammar ****. But. **** dude.

 

dude its ok i never passed 9th grade english. but yeah its over heating just sittin im ny drive way idling. and it idles at like 1.5k all the sudden no idea why but w/e. any idea how much it costs to rebuild?

 

http://atkinsrotary.com/

There's a good place to start that and I would repeatedly use the search function on this forum.

 

i try but it hardly ever gives me what i want to know

 

Lulz, I've noticed that when you are idling and rotaries start heating up they always start revving higher.
So is your car overheating now?
And, on average it costs anywhere from 1,000 to 2,000 if you are doing it yourself.
It can be done for cheaper but it won't be a good rebuild.

 

it is over heating kinda i shut it down before it gets close to overheating once its above 1/2 on the gauge its getting shut off. but when i was ******* with it before work i noticed that nothing was coming out of the top by the thermostat. so i have tomorrow off so ima take it out and see what happens maybe it was the problem. never know.

 

the FSM is always a good thing for helping with the rebuild process. i used that and these videos on youtbe.
http://www.youtube.com/user/TulsaTur...17/6ixgG9ajtmU hope that helps

 

took out the thermostat and it heats up to about 5/8 up the gauge and then it cools right down...prolly the fan kicking in. im running stright water atm cause i don't wanna waste coolant but it seems to be running cooler hard to belive.

 

so i drove it around it its running fine....temp never goes above 1/2 on straight water...ill replace it with coolant later

 

sounds like your thermostat was STUCK closed! to test it heat up some water on the stove and put the old thermo in the water. you should see it open. if it dont then that was your over heating problem

 

For those of you using the search function use "quotes" it helps, a lot

 

well i just went and got some coolant open the hood to see if the overflo is pissing again..nope but i here some gurgling sound. so i was like wtf? it sounds like gurgling in these what look like coolant hoses up by the intake. i took a video post in in a min

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/durtled#p/u/0/MfuZ4_4fPo4

 

did you Flush All the old coolant out? if not buy a flush kit from autozone install it start your car and turn the hose on. while its running make sure the heater is on full. flush everything out for 10 min. then put new coolant in

 

S4's temp gauge should be between 1/4 to 1/3 up the gauge depending out outside conditions. The S5 gauge is such an inaccurate p.o.s it shouldn't be trusted anyway. My s5 gauge reads halfway from ~155* till atleast ~215*. Temps taken with a prosport recall gauge with about 3k of use on the sensor.

 

my gauge is normaly at 1/4-1/3 when driving but idling it goes up to 1/2 ez...and unless i give it a bit of gas it keeps going up to like 3/4....gonna flush it now