Finally Cured Climbing Coolant Temp Issue
08-20-12, 03:42 PM
#28
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It may not be EXACTLY what happens but it is possible, especially if you drill crooked.
Loot at a Tesla valve for fluid stopping its own flow. There's also a study conducted on swimmers not keeping their fingers perfectly tight as the space between takes advantage of water's boundary layer and tension to move them through the water with more force. These factors apply in a vehicles cooling system.
08-20-12, 03:50 PM
#29
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OE thermostats never run the engine at their rated temperature, figured this was common knowledge. while the plunger opening is smaller on the OEM thermostat the intake is larger. on the "racing" thermostat the intake is smaller but the plunger area is larger. i bet the flow characteristics of both are actually very similar.
Think of it like this....take those inlet/outlet sizes of the thermostats and make a 1 foot long funnel for each using those sizes. Inlet at top, outlet at bottom. Cap the bottom/outlet and fill both with water. Remove both caps simultaneously and see which one drains faster. The one with the smaller outlet will flow less gpm than the one with the larger.
The inlet size does not matter if the outlet is already choking it.
Another example ... add a supercharger onto an N/A ... but leave the stock exhaust manifold. The outlet is choking it.
The OEM stat was being choked, regardless of the inlet size. The racing stat has a larger outlet area, while still being smaller than the inlet, so it's going to flow more fluid.
As already been pointed out, too much flow does not allow adequate transfer of heat from the engine to the fluid to the radiator to the air, so that's a balance to be watched.
08-27-12, 07:54 PM
#30
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The lower temperature isn't the winning factor in this.
It's the flow of the new t-stat.
If the flow was the same between the two, then lower temp opening only adds time before you over heat again. If a system cannot remove all the heat, then opening it earlier will do nothing but take it a little longer to get to the critical point again.
Increasing flow can also be detrimental dependent on the cooling system make up.
Cooling is all about the time the fluid is in contact with the engine/radiator and how much heat it can take or remove.
Increasing flow speeds up the coolant so it will have less time to remove heat from the engine block and less time to release it through the radiator.
This can cause false results when only monitoring coolant temps. The engine could be unable to give out all it's heat to the fast coolant. This is why removing a thermostat completely is a bad idea.
The larger core radiator will help remove heat by it's size and possible flow stagnation. Your larger flow T-stat can better utilize the radiator now.
This isn't to say your T-Stat that you're selling will not solve issues. It' just that it is one piece in a larger cooling puzzle.
It's the flow of the new t-stat.
If the flow was the same between the two, then lower temp opening only adds time before you over heat again. If a system cannot remove all the heat, then opening it earlier will do nothing but take it a little longer to get to the critical point again.
Increasing flow can also be detrimental dependent on the cooling system make up.
Cooling is all about the time the fluid is in contact with the engine/radiator and how much heat it can take or remove.
Increasing flow speeds up the coolant so it will have less time to remove heat from the engine block and less time to release it through the radiator.
This can cause false results when only monitoring coolant temps. The engine could be unable to give out all it's heat to the fast coolant. This is why removing a thermostat completely is a bad idea.
The larger core radiator will help remove heat by it's size and possible flow stagnation. Your larger flow T-stat can better utilize the radiator now.
This isn't to say your T-Stat that you're selling will not solve issues. It' just that it is one piece in a larger cooling puzzle.
08-28-12, 02:33 AM
#31
I don't see any heat shielding around your turbo. Add something between your manifold and it may help from cooking it.
Ducting and fan impedance can also be issues.
Make sure the front bumper area is sealed well so air has no choice but to go through the radiator. Upper radiator panel, under tray, foam between radiator and under tray,etc.
It's not too common but Fans and their shrouding can actually become air flow restrictions at higher speeds. It's probably not that but it doesn't hurt to mention.
The Taurus Efan and the volvo variants are really the only Efans to consider when ditching the stock clutch fan.
Ducting and fan impedance can also be issues.
Make sure the front bumper area is sealed well so air has no choice but to go through the radiator. Upper radiator panel, under tray, foam between radiator and under tray,etc.
It's not too common but Fans and their shrouding can actually become air flow restrictions at higher speeds. It's probably not that but it doesn't hurt to mention.
The Taurus Efan and the volvo variants are really the only Efans to consider when ditching the stock clutch fan.
08-28-12, 08:41 AM
#32
If its the flow thats part of the issue then im hoping the 20b cosmo waterpump housing helps with the cooling puzzle im having. I pretty much have the same setup as Banzai except my koyo isnt nflow and i was running an fd waterpump and housing. On highway/cruising my temps with a/c are way too hot for my comfort and would keep creeping up even with two radiator fans and my condenser fan kicked on. I had the engine out for rebuilding so i figured id try a 20b pump housing i had laying around. I still have to pick up some mishimoto tstats but as soon as i do, ill take it for some test runs and post some results.
We have the Mishimoto thermostats in stock.
08-28-12, 09:56 AM
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I don't see any heat shielding around your turbo. Add something between your manifold and it may help from cooking it.
Ducting and fan impedance can also be issues.
Make sure the front bumper area is sealed well so air has no choice but to go through the radiator. Upper radiator panel, under tray, foam between radiator and under tray,etc.
It's not too common but Fans and their shrouding can actually become air flow restrictions at higher speeds. It's probably not that but it doesn't hurt to mention.
The Taurus Efan and the volvo variants are really the only Efans to consider when ditching the stock clutch fan.
Ducting and fan impedance can also be issues.
Make sure the front bumper area is sealed well so air has no choice but to go through the radiator. Upper radiator panel, under tray, foam between radiator and under tray,etc.
It's not too common but Fans and their shrouding can actually become air flow restrictions at higher speeds. It's probably not that but it doesn't hurt to mention.
The Taurus Efan and the volvo variants are really the only Efans to consider when ditching the stock clutch fan.
Oops for got to mention I took that pic halfway through putting everything back together. I do have a blanket for the turbo and I have also tried sealing with foam between the radiator and undertray. I still have to go through and make sure I seal off the bumper area though.
For now I think I'm going to go with the thermostat swap and see how it goes. If the temps still rise Ill consider maybe swapping out to the Taurus efan. Either way Ill post some results. Oh and Banzai I get paid this week so i'll order the tstats this weekend.
08-29-12, 01:05 AM
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So many people trying to make a point using only half the info.
Even if both 'stats had the same flow at full-open, the lower temp stat would cause you to have cooler temps. The reason is that a 'stat doesn't just go from closed, to full open once it hits its magical temp. It gradually opens more and more as the temp rises. This means the lower temp stat will reach full-open at a lower temp as well.
Yeah, if your temps are out of control and continue to climb they will both eventually reach full-open. But if your cooling system is doing a proper job, the low temp 'stat will always run a little cooler than a higher temp 'stat.
Even if both 'stats had the same flow at full-open, the lower temp stat would cause you to have cooler temps. The reason is that a 'stat doesn't just go from closed, to full open once it hits its magical temp. It gradually opens more and more as the temp rises. This means the lower temp stat will reach full-open at a lower temp as well.
Yeah, if your temps are out of control and continue to climb they will both eventually reach full-open. But if your cooling system is doing a proper job, the low temp 'stat will always run a little cooler than a higher temp 'stat.
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