Finally changed out the front diff mount!
03-15-03, 01:43 PM
#26
Refined Valley Dude
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I don't know.
I'm going to be back under the 7 again tomorrow. I'll take more pics that will hopefully provide better direction.
I'm going to be back under the 7 again tomorrow. I'll take more pics that will hopefully provide better direction.
04-03-03, 07:29 PM
#27
Refined Valley Dude
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Allright!
Sorry to have been so long. I finally got back at the diff today. The batteries in my camera were pretty much wiped out so I only got a few shots.
This time you get a pic of the pinion snubber from below. Y'see, my placement of the PS was half an inch too far forward. I had intended for it to be directly above the bulge where the upper front diff mount bolt goes into the diff (this should make sense in a moment.)
This first link will take you to a pic of the differential. The circled area is where the PS contacts, which is slightly forward of where I wanted it to contact.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=25
Try this side view in the next link ('scuse my crappy drawing skills. ) This is where I originally wanted the PS to be positioned above the diff.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=26
This is how it turned out.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=27
And now my MacGyver patch.
I couldn't drill a new hole to relocate the PS, and I sure as hell couldn't move the diff half an inch forward, so my only option was to enlarge the area on the diff where I wanted contact to happen. Kinda like making a speed bump longer (not wider.)
I chose nuts - something the shop has a bazillion of. I took 3, threaded them together onto a bolt and then postioned that ahead of the bulge and then welded the nuts in place, making sure that it wasn't sticking off the side far enough to block the front diff mount when I reattached it.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=28
I put it all back and Hey! Perfect!
And here's the PS from below...
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=29
If anyone's having trouble making sense of any of this, please ask.
Sorry to have been so long. I finally got back at the diff today. The batteries in my camera were pretty much wiped out so I only got a few shots.
This time you get a pic of the pinion snubber from below.
Y'see, my placement of the PS was half an inch too far forward. I had intended for it to be directly above the bulge where the upper front diff mount bolt goes into the diff (this should make sense in a moment.) This first link will take you to a pic of the differential. The circled area is where the PS contacts, which is slightly forward of where I wanted it to contact.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=25
Try this side view in the next link ('scuse my crappy drawing skills.
) This is where I originally wanted the PS to be positioned above the diff.http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=26
This is how it turned out.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=27
And now my MacGyver patch.
I couldn't drill a new hole to relocate the PS, and I sure as hell couldn't move the diff half an inch forward, so my only option was to enlarge the area on the diff where I wanted contact to happen. Kinda like making a speed bump longer (not wider.)I chose nuts - something the shop has a bazillion of. I took 3, threaded them together onto a bolt and then postioned that ahead of the bulge and then welded the nuts in place, making sure that it wasn't sticking off the side far enough to block the front diff mount when I reattached it.
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=28
I put it all back and Hey! Perfect!
And here's the PS from below...
http://groups.msn.com/Amur/g2.msnw?a...oto&PhotoID=29
If anyone's having trouble making sense of any of this, please ask.
04-04-03, 07:44 AM
#29
Nothing to see here.
Originally posted by Amur_
Think of this as The Idiot's Guide to Pinion Snubber Installation.
I had to 'loosen' the subframe to get enough room to get the pinion snubber (PS) in. To do this, you need to remove the nuts from the front subframe where it bolts to the body, and also the nuts from the rear differential mounts. Don't worry - nothing will clunk to the ground. It's all still being held up by your shocks (and your driveshaft, which you won't need to disconnect.)
The subframe front mounts.
This one's already apart. See the thing hanging down on the right? It has a 14mm nut holding one end of it to the body. After you remove the 22mm nut, remove the 14mm one and then either swing it out of the way (like I have in the picture) or set it aside.
The rear differential mounts.
I used a racheting breaker bar to remove and reinstall these nuts. If you don't already have one, GET ONE. They're invaluable.
I used a crowbar to carefully pry the subframe and rear diff mounts down as far as they would go. This still didn't leave enough space to get at the spot where I intended to place the PS, so on the right side of the car I slowly pried the subframe down as far as I could get it to go and then stuck a 4 inch bolt (head up, against the body) to hold it there. Now I had enough room.
With a long punch and a hammer I scootched under the back of the car. I picked out the mark where I had measured for the PS and used the punch to put enough of a dent there that I would be able to see it from inside the car. There was not enough room to drill from below.
Then, after pulling out the rear seat cushion (guys with bins - you're on your own ) I drilled through where I had punched.
Next I put in the PS, sliding it through the hole and putting on the nut from inside. Then I put the subframe back up (meaning reconnected everything.) I had to put a jack under the diff and lift it to get everything in place.
The pinion snubber. It came in a pack of two.
With everything set back up, I went back under the car and used my fingertip (and then a tie-wrap ) to gauge the gap between the PS and the diff. It was too much, so out I came and dropped everything again. I removed the PS and put 2 washers on it to act as spacers (see pic above.) I reinstalled the PS and then reconnected everything again. This time it was just where I wanted it.
My 7 mechanic, who first told me about the PS, said that you do not want the PS to actaully touch the diff. You want just a few c*nt hairs of space to allow a little play. And that's what I now have.
Think of this as The Idiot's Guide to Pinion Snubber Installation.
I had to 'loosen' the subframe to get enough room to get the pinion snubber (PS) in. To do this, you need to remove the nuts from the front subframe where it bolts to the body, and also the nuts from the rear differential mounts. Don't worry - nothing will clunk to the ground. It's all still being held up by your shocks (and your driveshaft, which you won't need to disconnect.)
The subframe front mounts.
This one's already apart. See the thing hanging down on the right? It has a 14mm nut holding one end of it to the body. After you remove the 22mm nut, remove the 14mm one and then either swing it out of the way (like I have in the picture) or set it aside.
The rear differential mounts.
I used a racheting breaker bar to remove and reinstall these nuts. If you don't already have one, GET ONE. They're invaluable.
I used a crowbar to carefully pry the subframe and rear diff mounts down as far as they would go. This still didn't leave enough space to get at the spot where I intended to place the PS, so on the right side of the car I slowly pried the subframe down as far as I could get it to go and then stuck a 4 inch bolt (head up, against the body) to hold it there. Now I had enough room.
With a long punch and a hammer I scootched under the back of the car. I picked out the mark where I had measured for the PS and used the punch to put enough of a dent there that I would be able to see it from inside the car. There was not enough room to drill from below.
Then, after pulling out the rear seat cushion (guys with bins - you're on your own
) I drilled through where I had punched.Next I put in the PS, sliding it through the hole and putting on the nut from inside. Then I put the subframe back up (meaning reconnected everything.) I had to put a jack under the diff and lift it to get everything in place.
The pinion snubber. It came in a pack of two.
With everything set back up, I went back under the car and used my fingertip (and then a tie-wrap
) to gauge the gap between the PS and the diff. It was too much, so out I came and dropped everything again. I removed the PS and put 2 washers on it to act as spacers (see pic above.) I reinstalled the PS and then reconnected everything again. This time it was just where I wanted it. My 7 mechanic, who first told me about the PS, said that you do not want the PS to actaully touch the diff. You want just a few c*nt hairs of space to allow a little play. And that's what I now have.
11-14-05, 03:18 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
This thread is a definite help.
I have to do this since my diif mount broke on the subframe and it broke again only 3 days after I fixed it.
I have to do this since my diif mount broke on the subframe and it broke again only 3 days after I fixed it.
Hilarity ensues!
I'm back and broke another mount on my newer FC.
Is there a chance that anyone has those pics from this thread?
Also you think I can try and sneak the snubberin with the mount and everything already there? or will there not be enough room to move it up there?
01-26-06, 07:13 PM
#35
Thats not an FC...
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: spring hill, Fla
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I finally did mine tonight. took me about 1.5 hrs to pull the mount out. if i had known my exhaust was going to prevent the subframe from dropping far enough, it could have saved me about half an hour. i had to remove the hangars from the mufflers and the Y pipe to allow the exhaust to drop down far enough.
the subframe needs to come down far enough to clear the front mounting studs. then there is just enough room to pull the stock mount out in 2 pieces. i removed the front counterweight to make the mount less cumbersome.
the 2 nuts on the flange that bolts to the subframe are far easier to access from the rear, with a 14mm short, universal and about 12" of extension. angle the extensions so they run parallel to the rear toe link thingy.
the 3 nuts on the diff side are easy to get off. the front nut comes off with a racheting 17mm gear wrench, from the driveshaft side of the subframe. the rear 2 nuts come off easily in the same manner, same tool from the rear of the subframe side.
i had to pull the subframe all the way down, then push the diff all the way up and muscle the diff-flange off the 3 studs AFTER finagling the subframe-flange/rubber block off the 2 grooves.
after pulling this piece of **** out, its no wonder why i love my supras more than this car. Toyota engineered their cars a bajillion times better than my GTUs. i have no idea how im going to get this turd back in there without strugging for an hour once its in one piece. im going to trim down all the protruding flanges, brackets and tabs so its small, compact and easy to handle. hopefully itll be easier to reinstall once its trimmed down.
after i weld this mount, i probably will want to keep this toilet...
the subframe needs to come down far enough to clear the front mounting studs. then there is just enough room to pull the stock mount out in 2 pieces. i removed the front counterweight to make the mount less cumbersome.
the 2 nuts on the flange that bolts to the subframe are far easier to access from the rear, with a 14mm short, universal and about 12" of extension. angle the extensions so they run parallel to the rear toe link thingy.
the 3 nuts on the diff side are easy to get off. the front nut comes off with a racheting 17mm gear wrench, from the driveshaft side of the subframe. the rear 2 nuts come off easily in the same manner, same tool from the rear of the subframe side.
i had to pull the subframe all the way down, then push the diff all the way up and muscle the diff-flange off the 3 studs AFTER finagling the subframe-flange/rubber block off the 2 grooves.
after pulling this piece of **** out, its no wonder why i love my supras more than this car. Toyota engineered their cars a bajillion times better than my GTUs. i have no idea how im going to get this turd back in there without strugging for an hour once its in one piece. im going to trim down all the protruding flanges, brackets and tabs so its small, compact and easy to handle. hopefully itll be easier to reinstall once its trimmed down.
after i weld this mount, i probably will want to keep this toilet...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post