wpgrexx

Okay, after too long pissing around i finally got some pics up. I go the car back running thursday night. After finding out that upon reinstalling the secondaruy injectors, they leaked, bad. Took it apart and saw tiny little tears in the O rings at the top. I also found out that the little atomizers that we were not supposed to worry about must be different on s5 than s4. You need it or u leak gas. While i had the car apart, i decided to do more than originally planned intake porting. I did the full tb mod removing the secondary plates and cold start thermowax assembly. Most of the write ups i found on various sites said that they wer for s4's but they weren't in the pics. For s4 people who want to do it-- take out the plates, removed both diaphram things from each side. the thermowax assembly, the brass bar thingy and coolant lines. for rerouting coolant lines i reused one of the lines i took of, since i was replacing every hose anyway. i just connected the line from the waterneck to the block at the top back p.side of the motor. Once the intake was off i took off the egr, copied the gasket on 1/8 metal and made a block off plate.
At that point, i decided that i wanted the bare minimum of vacuums. so i rehosed the fuel lines, the line from the fuel filter goes to the primary rail, and the return line to the secondary rails. The fuel pressure regulator just hooks up to a vacuum line upon reinstall of manifold.

As for the manifold porting, The uim(upper intake manifold) I took off quite a bit where it attaches to the lim(lower intake manifold). i matched it to the gasket and then made the inside below the lip a lot bigger and as deep as i could, i also rounded of the secondary injector area.

At the top, wher the uim attaches to the dynamic chamber, i smoothed of the rather unsmooth factory edges, alot. Be careful at cutting too much, it is in a sketchy area but you can smooth it out quite a bit. I also noticed that mazda was lazy with cleaning up the casts, so i ground the roughness down, a lot smoother.



As for the lim, only port it on the side where it attaches to the uim. There is a big bump on the primary port on the right side grind it right down. i also match ported it to the gasket, and using one of those internal diameter measuring things i made it as close to the uim as possible.

When they wer off i also painted them with vht brake caliper paint that i had left over. Here is the lim and acv block off plate



I took off the bac, and made a block off plate


I disconnected all of the solenoids and removed the metal lines. I was going to remove the omp and go just premix, but decided not to remove it . Apparently the pump needs to remain connected to the ecu even though it is not hooked up, and you never know , on a trip sometime, u run out of injection oil, having the omp is a good plan b, i am running pre mix though. Unfortunately, when replacing the vacuum lines with silicone ones, i broke a nipple on the black round thing for the oil injectors. so after swearing and kicking things for 15 min, i put a screw in the broken hole and ran a line straight from the injector to a tb nipple. Bought some vacuum caps and capped off everything not needed.

I also decided to go out and buy an e-fan. 1250 cfm through the rad, 1500 cfm on its own !6" cost $160. I alos converted to deionized water and redline water wetter.

Put it all back together, after some flooding problems? it now starts fine every time but takes a little warm up time to maintain an idle. i am considering pulling the throttle cable tighter until the revs stay at 1k right now, according to the safc, it idles down to 600 back up to 1k back down, but it doesn't stall, if this is something you don't want to deal with, leave in the BAC.

All i need to do now is find somewhere with a dyno and someone who knows how to map an safc properly.

Results---- WOW!!!!!!! first drive was cool, it is a lot quicker now, once i get past 4500 5000ish it takes off. I revved it to 8136 according to peak hold. i know that is too high for a stock s4, but it still felt like it was making power, no drop off at all. Throttle response is lots crisper. playing around a little today i revved up 2nd to like roughly 7500, 110kmh, 70mph. It got there a lot quicker, 2nd and 3rd pull very hard now. The sound the engine makes is hella mean too. it has a real deep growl to it, and the idle sounds like if it were a v8 I had a crazy lumpy cam. Overall, i would highly recommend doing this mod.

Total Costs


2 dremel bits-$8 each, one round head on square head
2 gaskets-$15 at dealer for both
metal for block off plates-$10 and lots left over
Racing sports akimoto(whatever) silicone hoses-$50
Fuel lines-$30, some left over
Water wetter-$15
deionized water-$1.99/ 4 litres
e-fan- $160
Copper gasket gasket sealer-$5.99
vacuum caps-2 @ $1.50 each
empty engine bay and more fun-priceless

BoostedRotors

That would look sweet if all the blue hose was black. Thats the only gripe I have looks nice!

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Where Is your Air Pump? How are you running your Auxilliary Ports?

Youu might aswell remove the useless Sub Zero Start Valve, as I did. Infact I took off the Valve, removed the threaded rod and filled In the 2 holes, the coolant travelled through before, with JB Weld. Much neater In appearance than using a block off plate.

How says the ECU will detect your OMP missing? On a s5 It will. We don't have that concern. I removed my OMP, Lines, Injectors and the bent out of shape rod with no problems. I bought a block off plate from K2RD and worked out beautifully.

If you are worried about forgetting your 2 Stroke Oil, than put It In your trunk. I buy them one case at a time. I premeasure each bottle at 16oz's. That way I don't have to do this tedious task with all these cars honking at me saying WTF at the Gas Station?

Wankel7

I see red Xs

Kai

This was posted in 2002, go figure.

Wankel7

Your grasp on the obvious is amazing.....

My grasp on the obvious is.....disturbingly ..... not there