FINAL how do i test my 5th and 6th ports???
#1
FINAL how do i test my 5th and 6th ports???
OK ive been searching for about 2 days now and have found no usefull info, i have a s5 and i want to test the 5th and 6th port system and see if its working, i dont think the grease thing will work since the little acuator rods move up and not in like on an s4, what can i do to test these, i have no clue if there working or not, and exaclly how do you wire them open,
I need to know Help
I need to know Help
#2
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I don't understand how the grease trick would not work. I also would think that you would notice the power diffrence if they were not working. I know I felt it. Another suggestion would be to unhook thre actuators and drive the car. If it feels the same then your ports are probably not working.
#4
illegal ninja moves
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dang, where's Andrew Lohaus? he showed me a good trick for this, but I can't remember exactly which hose goes where... here's the idea though:
in the S5 the actuators are triggered electronically by a solenoid. the solenoid only passes air to the actuators if you're in gear and are above a certain RPM (about 3800?). So, if you reroute the air hoses to bypass that solenoid, then your actuators will be getting the air pressure they need whenever you rev the engine, even in neutral. SO... now you can park your car and stand outside the engine bay to test them. Just give the car a little throttle and watch the actuators open (or not open, hehe).
which solenoid is that?
in the S5 the actuators are triggered electronically by a solenoid. the solenoid only passes air to the actuators if you're in gear and are above a certain RPM (about 3800?). So, if you reroute the air hoses to bypass that solenoid, then your actuators will be getting the air pressure they need whenever you rev the engine, even in neutral. SO... now you can park your car and stand outside the engine bay to test them. Just give the car a little throttle and watch the actuators open (or not open, hehe).
which solenoid is that?
#5
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you're gona need to bust out the haynes manual or the fsm and look in the fuel and intake systems section. look for the diagram that shows you the soleneids and find the ones that are called the aux port solenoid and the vdi solenoid (iirc corectly they are the first 2 ones on the top row of the solenoid rack, but check just to make sure) now, what you do is pull off the hose that goes into the front part of the solenoid, leave it atached to the vacum rack. now, pull the little hose that goes from the top of the solenoid back to the other vacum rack off of the nipple on th rack. now plug the one you just pulled off the front side of the solenoid into the nipple you just pulled the other one off of (just leave the one coming off the top of the solenoid sitting there so you dont loose it). viola, you just bypassed the solenoid so there will be a direct path from the air pump to the actuators at all times now. like tie piot said, rev the engine (to get enough pressure out of the air pump) and watch for them to open. if they dont open with a little more than a blip, you know they are stuck.
make sure to put teh hose back once you get it figured out. lol
make sure to put teh hose back once you get it figured out. lol
#6
I'm a boost creep...
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I don't have an S5 NA to test this on, but I have a good theory on a way to test the entire system without changing hoses or wires or anything.
The 6PI and VDI systems only open when the engine is under load, and the ECU knows the engine's load from the MAP sensor. If you pull the hose off the MAP sensor it will only read atmospheric pressure, which is exactly what it sees at WOT, i.e. full load.
So pull the hose off the MAP sensor and slowly increase engine rpm while watching first the 6PI actuators and then the VDI actuator. They should open around 3800rpm and 5500rpm respectively.
Now someone go test my theory.
The 6PI and VDI systems only open when the engine is under load, and the ECU knows the engine's load from the MAP sensor. If you pull the hose off the MAP sensor it will only read atmospheric pressure, which is exactly what it sees at WOT, i.e. full load.
So pull the hose off the MAP sensor and slowly increase engine rpm while watching first the 6PI actuators and then the VDI actuator. They should open around 3800rpm and 5500rpm respectively.
Now someone go test my theory.
#7
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
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Aux Port Test:
Tools - about 6 ft of vac tube, 2 vac T's, and a pressure or boost gauge
For those with series 5 N/A's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
To test them, T in a pressure gage and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
Then route the tube inside with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.
Tools - about 6 ft of vac tube, 2 vac T's, and a pressure or boost gauge
For those with series 5 N/A's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
To test them, T in a pressure gage and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
Then route the tube inside with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.
Last edited by SureShot; 10-12-04 at 06:33 AM.
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#8
Lives on the Forum
I was going to suggest exactly the same thing as SureShot, but he beat me to it. Beware, that only checks to see if there is air pressure going to them, rotate them with your fingers to check to see if they're sticky.
#9
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You could also be a real geek about it and rig up a micro switch so that it gets closed when the 6-ports are fully opened, tie that into the battery and wire an LED inside the car then to ground.... when the ports open, the switch will close and light the LED. (thats what i did, but then again, I love tinkering with electronics. The hardest part here was making a bracket to hold the switch in place. I made one out of sheet metal and bolted on behind the actuator. Worked, and you can mount the LED somehwere so that it lights everytime the 6-ports open.
#10
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
You could also be a real geek about it and rig up a micro switch so that it gets closed when the 6-ports are fully opened, tie that into the battery and wire an LED inside the car then to ground.... when the ports open, the switch will close and light the LED. (thats what i did, but then again, I love tinkering with electronics. The hardest part here was making a bracket to hold the switch in place. I made one out of sheet metal and bolted on behind the actuator. Worked, and you can mount the LED somehwere so that it lights everytime the 6-ports open.
#13
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The quick & easy way is great for S4's since the pull action moves the grease up the rod.
On S5's you can't tell if they moved.
When you stop & look under the hood, they are pulled back, but the grease dosen't show if they pushed & returned.
On S5's you can't tell if they moved.
When you stop & look under the hood, they are pulled back, but the grease dosen't show if they pushed & returned.
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