BklynRX7

Hey I only have 16 miles on my rebuild. besides that I let ti idle a few times a week in ym garage. However when i fucked up the other day and spilled massive ammounts of oil I found out my oil is absolutely ******* filthy. Is this normal??? Again I dont mean dirty, I mean a mud brown sludge appearance.

BlaCkPlaGUE

Weird. If its a rebuild with used housings and you have less than great compression, gasoline may be getting into the oil quite a bit, especially if you are boosting with a turbo.

Other than that, thats all I can think of. Lets here what the others have to say.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

some condensation is normal but if it was overfull and looks like a milkshake then it could have an internal coolant leak(slipped an outer coolant seal while assembling).

only way to determine this is by doing a coolant pressure test to see if the cooling system holds pressure.

Syonyk

Um... how's your coolant level? A mud-brown sludge would possibly indicate water in the oil (like, large amounts of).

Was the engine cleaned out before it was put back together? If it had been sitting for a long time, there might be dirty oil in it, but my rebuild spit out mostly amber oil (and still does).

-=Russ=-

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

gotta remember that the oil cooler holds a few quarts of oil as well, if it had a blown outer coolant seal before then that oil may have been pumped into the engine on first startup, you could try changing the oil and run it a few miles to warm it up and recheck it.

ddub

If the coolant seal was screwed and you're leaking coolant into the oil or burning it off it'd be pretty obvious, at least in my mind. I mean your coolant levels would drop all the time or you'd have to constantly top it off, right?

BklynRX7

Well the rebuild was done with brand new housings and all new seals. i still think I have shitty compression cause I cant idle below 1000 without dying off. As for the oil it was not a coolant/oil color it just looked dirty.Also my coolant level is not going down. Maybe it was from the oil cooler like someone said cause the car did sit a year without an engine. im gonna drain out what I can (while cold) and replace it with new 20w50 and then Ill do a complete oil change again next week to attempt to clean it out. Also would I be able to get a mazda filter from a mazda dealer or would I have to order online?

ddub

Isn't it fairly cold where you are (NY)? I'd go with 10w30 instead of 20w50.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

coolant seals don't necessarily leak while sitting, in most cases with a fresh rebuild they only leak while under cooling system pressure but in your case i hope it is not the case but it has been seen before.

pengarufoo

the first oil change on a fresh rebuild is often very dirty, thats why it is recommended that you change the oil the first time prematurely, eve just a hundred miles into it.

Change the oil and filter and keep driving, see what it looks like in a week.

You should also cut open the oil filter from the first change (its a good idea to do every time btw) and inspect it for any foreign objects like metal chunks or huge quantities of metal flakes. Some flakes is to be expected as new parts wear in the oil will carry the material to the filter. anything excessive is something to be concerned about though.

BklynRX7

I just went with what the builder put in when he gave it back. If I were to change it and put in 10w30 would I have any issues cause of them mixing. I cant imagine why there would be but i figure i better ask. Also its cold now but will be warming up soon and I wont be driving it till the spring so what do you all suggest I do?

ddub

Eh its hard to say. Colder weather 10w30, warmer weather 10w30 until it gets too hot then 20w50.

10w30 will yield more power than 20w50 and if you go synthetic the 10w30 will be able to withstand higher temperatures than non-synthetic 10w30.

For my rebuild I bought the cheapest regular 10w30 I could find. I was able to get some Sears brand 10w30, 12 quarts for 10 bucks plus tax Oh and before the rebuild I was running synthetic 20w50 (which was still in the oil cooler) and this mixed but I didn't really worry about it.

jhammons01

Mixing oils is old school. The story was that you had to use the same oil or else you'll have "ring" failure.......Ok,,,,,not a problem here. You just put your motor in and I am sure that there are many types of oils mixed in your sump right now. To name a few would be Vaseline, Marvels mystery oil old motor sludge, whatever you had in your cooler and finally the 20w50. Changing your oil brand/viscocity at this time will make no difference.

The dark in your current oil could be assembly lubricants that do not stand up to the heat. I am sure the oil is not a filthy as your language.......sorry, just being a smartass.

BklynRX7

What do you mean yeild more power? You mean handle or actually show a gain? I am going to put back in 20w50 right now simply for the reason that I am doing the change cold and there will be alot fo oil left in the pan. WOuld mixing brands be horrible? The builder put in redline and I am stuck with mobile1.

ddub

Very small gain, nothing noticeable at all.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

higher weight oil causes more drag on the motor which reduces horsepower, not a very noticable amount though to worry about though.

BklynRX7

Any answers to the redline mobile 1 question???

ddub

Shouldn't be that big of a deal, but if you're worried drain the engine and oil cooler and fill both up, anything that might be left in the oil cooler lines and what not will be negligible.

BklynRX7

You can drain the oil cooler?