Heres my story: I bought a JDM(right hand drive) 88 Turbo FC in the spring for $2000, the car has just broke 190,000km.

I have been having flooding problems since I got the car, when the car is really hot, it wont start. If the temperature is cooler, like under 25 degrees celcious, the car starts only 1% of the time, and sounds, and smells like its REALLY over fueling all the time.

Heres a list of what I have replaced

- New: Air intake,
Spark Plugs,
Precision Fuel Injectors 550cc Primary 780cc secondary,
o2 Sensor,
Fuel Filter,
Battery

- I had 60psi compression on both rotors, so I ran ATF through it, then steam cleaned the combustion chambers, then a couple weeks after I changed the Oil. After the oil change I did a compression test, got even bounces at 85psi on both rotors.

The car runs really rich, and idles really rough under 1500rpm. When the temperature is cooler than 25 degrees Celsius, the car refuses to start, when I crank it the engine just floods itself.

When it is above 25 degrees Celsius and just nice and warm out, the car starts with no problem, although the past few days I've noticed a little puff of white smoke come out the exhaust when it starts.

My starting problems are definetely temperature related, I need some suggestions on what to do now, should I be checking my Water Thermal Sensor?

Also when the car is running, and I unplug the BACV, the idle doesn't change at all. Does this mean the BACV is broken?

 

try adding a fuel cut off switch. had to do it when i bought my 88 TII. it would start right up when it was cold as soon as it got warm it wouldnt start.

 

I have a EGI fuse switch, it helps when the car is warm, but does nothing when the cars cold.

 

85 psi is still low and this could cause your flooding problems. Install a fuel cutoff switch or time for a rebuild.

If the car is un-modified shouldn't you have 550's in the secondaries?

 

85 psi is what the service manual says it should be at.

This is a new problem for me, the car used to start fine in cooler weather, I just think one of my sensors failed or something, probably from when I ran ATF into my combustion chamber through a vacuum hose.

The car has an upgraded exhaust system, a front mount intercooler, and no cold-start system.

I would really like some suggestions on things I should check because now that its nearing fall, the mornings are colder and my car won't start so I don't have a ride to work :S.

 

If the car continues to flood, you can install a fuel cutoff switch and this should prevent flooding.

85 psi is low, I don't care what the fsm says. Its still drivable, but its low and can cause increased flooding.

 

Yeah, 85psi is definately low. And the 550/780cc injectors on the stock map probably aren't helping either.

+1 on time for a rebuild.

 

And sorry for the double post, but get yourself a damn fuel controller. Running that rich on the stock map isn't going to do anything for you but waste gas.

If you really want to never see the hot start problem again, after you do a rebuild, get a standalone. Haltech or RTek are the favorites and are suppose to get rid of the hot start problem. You might want to look into that.

 

IIRC what the service manuels have is a range of compressions which are suitable depending on how fast cranking is. If your batter is just about dead and cranking very slowly than 85psi might be ok, but chances are your car was cranking faster than the cranking speed that 85psi is good. You should want to see over 100psi to have any kind of strong motor.

ATF is always a last resort. Everything you have said so far is describing the classic signs of a mildly blown engine that is now deteriorating further.

You are not going to get a reliable car out of what you currently have untill you rebuild the motor. Bottom line. If you need a car to get to work, I would suggest you go and buy another car and then start to pull the engine out of the RX7. Chances are you will have a lot of usable parts in the motor since it is not completly blown.

Good luck

 

Im not worried about my compression.* The car used to start up fine in the mornings, I know something in the car just fucked up.

When the temperature is warm, it starts every time.

When I jump start, it starts every time.

My dads going to check my ecu and test my air intake temperature sensor, and my water thermal sensor, ill let you know if either of these things are the culprit.



*About my compression, I am highly doubting it has anything to do with my cold start problems just because three weeks ago the car started fine in the colder weather, or early mornings. When I drive the car, it drives strong, the engine pulls, the car is fast.

 

Which is cute and all, but you are ignoring the leading cause of flooding....low compression. I don't give a rats *** how it drives, low compression causes flooding. Case and point. We have already given you the simplest fix for this yet you ignore that as well.

 

Im not ******* ignoring the fact, I understand it completely, I know my compression is low, but its not the problem here. As I said before the car was starting before in the mornings, it was an overnight thing one day it just stopped starting.

Damn people PLEASE stop telling me its bad compression. I UNDERSTAND THAT IT CAN CAUSE FLOODING. But it isn't my problem in this case, I am sure of it.

 

Really, you don't say. You mean to tell us that a mildly blown rotary engine will seemingly over night get worse? You must be pulling our leg's... right? (Note: the previous statement was meant to be sarcastic.)

It's not that low compression "can" cause flooding... low compression "does" cause flooding. The situation you describe is not new here... in fact it is far from new. Let me say this slowly, you... have... a... blown... motor. How do I know this?? I bought my car with a motor in similar condition to what you describe and drove it for 8 months while noticing it deteriorate further. There are mutiple other people on this forum that could tell the same story, and if you listen and learn than one day you will be able to help someone in your shoes.

This is a japanese car. It is engineered to run a healthy motor. If you want a car capeable of running a blown motor, try a german car, since the germans have a reputation for engineering around almost all other problems rather than fixing them.

 

What I am trying to say is that low compression is not the ONLY factor that can prevent a RX-7 from starting.

I am trying to determine if there are any other reasons that my car will not start asides from the low compression. GOT IT? (CAN I BE ANY ******* CLEAR-ER?)

**** you are stubborn Craiger. And stop treating me like I'm an idiot in denial.

 

/thread

 

Then maybe you shouldn't be in denial. Your motor is blown, it needs a rebuild. Simple as that. If your looking for a reliable car, trade your 7 for a nice accord. Your going to have to accept the fact that you drive a high maintenance car and a blown motor is never out of the question. In fact, with the symptoms, and the fact that you already stated about low compression, 99% of the people with the same symptoms would come to the conclusion of a blown motor and replaced it.

Theirs no easy work around with this one. I guess if you wanted a half-*** fix, you could turn your idle up high enough to where it wont flood and make a fuel cut switch so your able to start the car quicker via pulling the INJ fuse remotely. Enjoy your gas mileage though.


Some of the people on this forum are ******. But those ****** are giving you advice on how to fix your car so you better listen to them. Just a hint.

 

cold starting as described is caused by low compression... I know you don't want to hear it, but that is the case.

So you can try and babie the motor with a fuel cut off switch (but that is just a band aid and not a solution), but I would also replace the 2ndaries with the right size 550cc (unless you have increased boost or are running NOS, there is no point in the larger injectors and that will make the problem worse).

I would also check and make sure the BAC is working properly and well as the cold start assist. It is not uncommon for idiot mechanics to use a test light on the BAC wires and blow the transistor out in the ECU.

But temp related flooding is caused by low compression. So most of anything else you can do it just band-aiding it.

 

Yes, this statement is correct. But what is preventing YOUR RX7 from starting is poor compression.

If there even were any other reasons, your compression is still the problem at the base. You said you wanted a reliable car... well your not going to get that untill you rebuild the motor.

Yes, I am stubborn. But I don't think you want to see me being stubborn. And with comments like everything you put in your first post and then following it up with "I know my compression is low, but its not the problem here," You don't need me to treat you like an idiot since your doing a damn fine job of making yourself look like one without my help.

Anyway, I and other people here have tried to help you and so far you have refused to listen to any of us. If your near or in Calgary maybe you shoud try taking it to RX7 Specialties, but unless you have described your problems very wrong than I know what they are going to tell you.

Since you refust to listen and have now launched a direct attack at me, I'm done with this thread.

Good luck... you'll need it.

 

Sorry Craiger about that explody splode last night I was just getting super frustrated, and me getting frustrated, + being mocked = me freakin losing it.

Sorry to cause such a stir.

It's been made pretty clear to me here that my symptons and problems are caused by low compression, but all I can do right now is band-aid my car until in the spring when I get a S5 swap.

I will keep you all posted if I do get this car to work in its current condition, with my low compression engine.



I have a switch that is hooked up to the first fuse, on the left side of my fuse box under the hood, I assumed it was an EGI, or fuel cutoff switch (please correct me if I am wrong).

I didn't think that the secondaries had anything to do with starting, I thought they only come in play at 4000 rpm.

I have no cold start system, the car was hack and slashed in japan before it was imported to Canada. The part that sticks out the bottom of my BACv is plugged off, and when I unplug the BAC when the car is running, it doesn't effect the idle at all :S.

 

another cheap band-aid is to premix. a full premix is usually one oz. per gallon for a car without any omp system, since i am assuming ur omp system is fully functional you could 1/2 premix. it'll help oil up the housing and build compression.

 

190 000km on a JDM car is damn high IMO.

In fact its very high for any rotary turbo IF its the original engine of course (wich I highly doubt).

 

On a JDM car that is indeed high, but coming up on the normal rebuild time for a turbo FC (190,000 KM is just under 120,000 miles).

 

Cool thanks guys, I am going to look into getting my car rebuilt in Calgary opposed to a S5 motor swap pricewise I mean.

I seem to be making a little progress, so far 5 out of 5 times, disconnecting my MAF when the car is cold has made the car start. Im going to try cleaning the MAF and see if that helps.

 

I put my stock injectors in, and now the car starts ALOT better, and idles perfect! I am having a problem that is driving me insane now, whenever the car decelerates, it starts backfiring and *chugging* or shaking. Not violently, but noticeably. It makes the car sound terrible.

I am not sure what to check, CAS?

I can get the car to start in the cold by fluttering my gas pedal. If I disconnect my MAF, the car fires up instantly but then dies of course because s4 has no limp mod.

 

So after a couple hours of checking stuff out, I fixed my problem .

The backfiring is greatly reduced, and the car doesnt lurch, or sound like **** when its decelerating anymore XD!

Now I have to figure out another problem, my radiator light is always on, my coolant is topped right up, and theres no leaks.