Ok, I've got an 88 GXL 13B... and I was wondering how complex it would be to make it carburated.... I have my reasons... But I was wondering, What do I need besides... Lower the fuel pressure... a carburator, and an intake mani? Can I then just disconnect everything else, block off the fuel injectors and it should work? Or is there more? Deffinetly need help on this soon... thank you in advance...

--John

 

speaking of advance, waht are you gonna do about ignition?

 

I'd go get a 13B GSL-SE distributer..

 

So the distributor has to be changed too? Anything else?

 

yeah, the whole intake system.

 

I mentioned that, So Intake Mani/plenum, Carburator, Some kind of vacumm box? Or can the stuff there be reused? But so it is possible? And If I can do the carburator and Intake plenumn for really cheap, is it worth it to do the change? Or how much more will be required?

 

it would require replacing everything on the intake... nothing could be re-used... You would need to build or buy a entire intake system, from the engine out.

The only exception if you use some sort of custom side draft in place of the stock throttle body, but I doubt it would clear the hood then and I don't know of anyone ever ever even doing that.

 

meh, if you go with dcoe carb you can reuse your lower intake manifold, keep the 6PI actuation, and buy a dcoe UIM from racing beat, it's a pretty straightforward setup.

 

need i say more? as you can see it has the 1 peice manifold with the 5th and 6 ports wired open at all times, so u basically have no fuel economy

 

So I would still remove the fuel rail and everything else right? Are there any writeups on it? So I'd need a carb setup Distributor... use the current lower mani, and then just get that dcoe carb... A diffrent fuel pressure regulator, and I'm done?

And Fuel econ should still relate to how much gas I put down right? you're just saying that with the 6 ports open, I will have to use more to get up to speed?
Would it be better to do a diffrent intake mani then? I can make a custom if I have to, if it would be that much better... I've got a friend who fabricates intake and exaust manifolds, so It wouldent be that hard to go a diffrent route. But would it just be better to use the stock mani?

 

All you need is a racing beat 6 port intake manifold, maybe a spacer (depending on what carb to be used) the preffered carb is a holley from 600cfm up, you can keep the stock fuel pump as long as you use an appropriate fpr... An early distributor and you get to keep the trailing coils... The stock lower manifold can be modified to take a carb but forget it, it takes a long time and a skilled person, so go with the RB option just bolt it on... Fuel econ depends on what carb, what jets are being used and how much your foot weights..

 

This is the intake manifold from RB with the carb installed on it... I've never liked those air filters... If you can't get the manifold alone or can't find a decent price, let me know...

 

Forgot to say that you will need the throtle cable plate also...

 

6 ports open does not kill the fuel economy, it hurts the low rpm torque.

it's actually the inverse, it helps the fuel economy because you wil get less air in the cylinders @ low rpm and if you have your **** tuned properly you will also have less fuel (sane AFR) and suddenly better fuel economy!

more torque == more air == more fuel == worse fuel economy.

I use a DCOE setup on my fuel injected fc, 6 ports are open (no more valves or actuators, LIM heavily modified so the secondary runners are SMOOTH as if the 6PI rods and bushings had never existed - all filled in via tig welding). I get better gas mileage than it did with the stock motor and ecu. This is fuel injected though, not carbed, but same intake tract, s4 LIM modded, RB DCOE UIM, TWM DCOE throttle body, haltech e6k engine management.

your fuel economy will be directly proportional to your ability to tune the carb (and to keep your foot out of it of course ), get a wideband o2 controller that can datalog so you can tune your carb with some intelligence.

 

It is just like having regular TII housings no biggie... and like pengarufoo said, both settings and your foot will decide the fuel consumption.

 

dude! did u not see the pic? thats a one piece manifold from www.piercemanifolds.com.... thats all i can reveal as of today

 

(6 ports open does not kill the fuel economy, it hurts the low rpm torque.

it's actually the inverse, it helps the fuel economy because you wil get less air in the cylinders @ low rpm and if you have your **** tuned properly you will also have less fuel (sane AFR) and suddenly better fuel economy!) cylinders????????????????????????????????????

 

I have a simple question...

Why?

 

heh, and I thought I was pedantic.

 

Pierce manifolds sell a manifold for an IDA carb which is a downdraft not a sidedraft. The intake your talking about is at http://www.aubetamotorsports.com/valley/page233.html

And why is that all you can reveal? Is it suppost to be a secret?

 

i am just waiting on a few last parts to complete this same project on my car. i went with a holley carb though.

 

your an idiot, call them and find out

 

i did the same thing with mine. went with the racing beat holley setup. all the parts came with it. i got a dizzy out of a 84 from ebay for 20 bucks. took the leading signal from the dizzy and split it to two ignition boxes and each box now fires one leading plug. you'll need a plug kit for the primary injectors. a block off plate for the valve on the top center of the center plate. get a light flywheel, and a stronger clutch, add a header and have fun! my car is kind of a gas pig but i think it has more to do with losing compression on my front rotor than the carb. im getting a new engine soon (as soon as i find it!), and am thinking about blowing a turbo through the holley. should be interesting to set up. ive been flamed time and time again for my setup but i love it so do what makes you happy!

 

does it have to be a gsl-se distributor? or will a 12 a distributor work?

 

i kept the stock ignition on my old car and it worked just fine, it was a 87 se and i put a weber ida 48 on it. Youll also need egr blockoff, plumb a hole for the break booster, fuelinjector blockoff, omp blockoff, youll probably be running premix, spring for throttle, diff fuel pump, fuel line. I had to cut out a lil part of the hood frame, to clear the air cleaner.