GrantManRX7

-Back before winter started my car just wouldn't start one day.

- summer comes and we think the engine is just overly flooded, so we unplug the fuel pump and start the car with it out. (friend plugged it in when it started and it spewed out some nasty sh&% for about 10 minutes)

- It starts, but can feel a little power loss when I drive.

-Start the car that same day later and I hear a loud bang come from the engine. Made it home but it felt like I had 20 hp, and it couldn't idle without stalling.

-Rebuilding the engine now and just got the engine out of the car with the hoist.

(we believe it is one of the seals, any second opinions)

- (1) Anyone know the common problems off the tops of there heads?

- (2) And should there be a gasket around the oil pan, because I had an oil leak, and I believe it is leaking from where the oil pan connects to the casings etc.
- Is there susposed to by some kind of liquid-dry sealent around the outsides, because there is some kind of sealent around it "caked" in oik

- Someone told me it should be metal on metal, Anyone know?

-thx for the help, GrantMan

Wankel7

I really hope you did a compresion test before you pulled the engine. But that is hindsight now.

Crack open the engine and see what failed.

Some pans had gaskets and some didn't. Atkins Rotary said I do not need a gasket. I put one in anyway. It surely can't hurt.

The goo around the pan is probally RTV sealant that got squished out when the pan was installed.

James

PHENIX

Yea i was helping Grantman with this its been real fun and we are learning alot , we videotaped everythign so we might post some pics for you guys, but we are still woundering b4 we go inside what it might be , i think it may be an apex seal but who knows...... thanks guys

hypntyz7

You will find that it was an apex seal, or rather 3, and that the rotor and its housing are not unuseable. You will have to find another one, specific to your year and type of engine, befor eyou can rebuild it.

As for why it did this, it could be due to large carbon buildup, which will be obvious when it is apart if that were the case. It could have been plain old wear..many old apex seals I remove from cores are about 30-40% their original height, so their less than half as strong. They just break form stress, and from dirt and carbon making them bind in their slots...when you try to make them move too much in this condition, they break.

As for the oilpan, I always use a gasket. They are supplied with rebuild gasket kits. I use the gasket with a thin layer of sealer on each side, actually, for the ultimate seal adn longevity.

PHENIX

So your saying we are going to need a new rotor and housing ??? if so how much would that be and where would you find it ?

hypntyz7

You wont now for sure until you open it up, but 95% of the time it blows an apex seal, yes.

You find these form someone else who has blown the same year engine, who is willing to take it apart for you and exaimine what is inside...youre always left with one good one adn one bad one. Average prices for an 86-88 NA housing and rotor in average, useable condition would be about $100. I dont remember what car youre working on, but if you need these I have them in stock.

GO ahead and open it up first to be sure. You might have gotten really lucky.

GrantManRX7

"and that the rotor and its housing are not unuseable"

- that would mean they are re-usesable...
- um, hehe, you confused me.

GrantManRX7

"useable" rather :/

hypntyz7

IT means most of the time **** gets fucked up and you cant fix it, you must replace it

How did I do that time?