Hello all. I have completed the 6-port cleanup after discovering that they were badly carboned up and severly stuck.
I also have completed the ATF treatment.
Well, the car nows runs stronger and no longer has the 3800 stall and seems to run smoother, but I still have some problems.

1) The engine starts right up when cold but does not go to the 3000 rpm range for the initial 20 seconds. It just goes to around 2000 rpm and warms up from there. I can start it up in neutral or any gear and it does not change.

2) After about 3-5 minutes of running(not warmed up yet) it has the bouncy idle from about 1500-1100 rpm and cycles like this for around 5 minutes. Now here is the strange part. When it cycles up in RPM's it sounds smooth, but when it is going back down in rpm's it sounds like it's only hitting on two plugs. Really strange. Then it stops cycling and stays at a constant RPM until warm but here is another kicker...after this it has the miss until it is warmed up completely and smooths out perfect. It is running rich during warmup also.(really rich smell)

I set the TPS at 1 ohm when warmed up(was .62 of an ohm) and it has no flat spots or opens in the entire range on the TPS. Idle is at 750 when completely warmed up.

3) After the engine is warmed up you can rev it and it rev's smooth but if you hold it at any rpm above idle, it will cycle up and down about 200 rpm's. The car runs on the highway very nice and does not seem to have the cycle problem unless at speeds lower than 20-30 mph. Then if you try to hold it at these speeds it kinda jerks you like it is either trying to speed up or slow down while holding down the accelerator at a constant place.

The engine was stripped down to the block and everything was either cleaned or replaced including hoses and belts. I left my air pump on to use for the 6-port activation but plugged off the pipe to the cat. Any help or suggestions???
Thanks!

 

Their is a pressure sensor I believe by the airbox. If you have a leak in the air funnel anywhere between the airbox and intake manifold, it will cause the car to idle poorly or not at all. Check to make sure the air funnel is sealed tight.
Otherwise it could very well be a vacuum leak.

 

Fix all vac leaks. Then go to http://www.iluvmyrx7.com and download section 4A. Go to the chapter that says *idle mixture adjustmet*. Jumper the initial set jumper and make the adjustments to the idle and variable resistor. Just a thought.

 

I kinda having the same problem, just one thing how can you tell when there's a vacuum leak????
88 n/a
Thx.
MAX

 

did you clean the bac also?

 

That behavior of the loping idle and not flying up to 3000 rpm when it is first started is the TPS. You need to do some more tweaking with that. Make sure when you adjust it that the engine is all the way to operating temps or the thermopellet might be holding the throttle open just enough to throw off your adjustment.

What you might want to do is get it to 1.0 Ohms, drive a little, check and adjust again, drive some more, adjust....etc. until you get it right. I thought I had mine right in place too, but had the exact problems you are describing until I kept tweaking into the right spot.

What I noticed is that I would adjust to 1.0 ohms and then as soon as I tightened the adjustment screw retaining nut that it threw it off on the high side. I think I finally ended up adjusting to 0.96 and after tightening the nut it was at 1.01 ohms. Apparently even just that much of a difference will throw the ECU into a tizzy.

Good luck!

 

Spray starting fluid in your engine bay around your vac lines, if it revs up, you found the leak (thanks Liquid!)

 

Most people would say that's a good thing! The 3000rpm idle is to quickly heat the cats for emissions purposes, but it's probably doing a fair bit of harm to the engine in the process. Don't worry about it!
BTW, this is controlled by a specific solenoid valve and the temp switch at the bottom of the radiator, not the TPS. Since it's still idling at 2000rpm, the solenoid's probably not opening properly.

 

The electrical signals sent to a lot of the selenoids and valves are are all controlled by the ECU based on the signal the ECU gets from the TPS. I would definitely not disregard that yet. Start tweaking!!