Driftboy

I have recently noticed some problems that have appeared in my car (87 TII). I have searched but I haven't found any fixes or solutions for these problems, yet. To start off just recently the add coolant light comes on and goes off regularly while driving, but the coolant level is perfectly fine? It scares the hell out of me every time it comes on and I always pull over to check it which is really annoying. I figured I would flush out the system to remove any possible air pockets or bubbles in the system and see if that would solve it, or maybe its some kind of electrical problem? I am not sure and any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Now on to all the brake system problems. I just noticed this problem yesterday, when in neutral when I apply the brakes the rev's go down some and then when I take my foot off the brake they jump back up, they only fluctuate around 100- 200 rpm's also I just noticed at the same time when I apply the brake not only does the rev's change but also there is a weird clicking noise coming from what seems to be the area around the master cylinder but I am not positive, maybe these problems are connected? And the final problem for now is a weird clinking noise, that I noticed many other FC owners are experiencing right now but no one seems to find a solution to it yet, it seems to be coming from the front some where and I can only hear it while going at low speeds (most likely because of the noise at higher rpm's) it doesn't seem to do this under braking but only at lower speeds. Any help on these problems or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
-Ryan

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

As far as the coolant light, check the level sensor that is located on top of the rad, right in the center. Make sure that the connection is still plugged in, and the wire is intact. If so, try bleeding the coolant system. If an air pocket gets in, it will trigger the sensor every once in a while. Also, you need to look into why all of a sudden there is air in the system. WHen is the last time you replaced the rad cap? (Use ONLY Mazda caps and thermostats..)Any cracked, loose coolant hoses? Etc...
As for the braking problem, have you tested you BAC valve? Get your battery and alternator checked out also, most places will do it for free (such as advanced, auto-zone, etc..)

Driftboy

Wow thanks for the quick reply. The guy that owned the car before me replaced the level sensor on the radiator right before I bought it so maybe when he changed that air got in to the system and he didn't bleed it off? I haven't replaced the rad cap yet since I haven't owned the car for that long, do you think that I should? I will also sort through the coolant hoses to check for any cracks. And I haven't checked the BAC valve yet but I am going to asap. Also the battery was just replaced but I have yet to test the alternator, do you think this could be causing the noise or rev's dropping when the brakes applied?
Thanks for the info

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

If he just took the sensor off, and put a new one on without bleeding the system afterwards, that is most likely your problem. There is a small plastic screw on the left side of the radiatior.(Right where the upper rad hose meets the radiator) Remove this screw, as well as the cap on the top of the thermostat housing. Begin pouring coolant into the thermostat housing neck until it starts to come out of the hole on the side of the rad. Replace plastic screw, and then continue filling coolant until it is full, then replace the cap. This should fix your problem.

Driftboy

Thanks I'll do that asap, any one have any insight on the brake issues?

Driftboy

I just went out side to bleed off the system like you said Rxmfn7 but looks like the owner before me striped the screw on the radiator that is the bleed off plug. You are talking about that plastic thing that looks like it needs a hex wrench to be taken out right? Any ideas on how to get it out I am not sure what's behind the plug so I want to check 1st. Also can you pick that part up at a hardware store or does it need to be ordered through the factory?

IwannaFC

check your coolant catch tank, (big tank right in the front when u open the hood) Does it have any coolant in it? If not this could be one cause of ur coolant light goiing on, id also pressure test your coolant system to see if you have any leaks in it that could possibly let fluid out or air in.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

As far as I know you need to order the plug.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=15-2030-N326

It should just have a phillips head. If it is stripped, try heating the head of a flathead screwdriver with a propane torch, and then pushing it into the plug. Let it cool down, and now you have a slot to unscrew it with. Its just plastic, and there is nothing behind it, in case you have any more ideas.

And IwannaFC brings up a point to, is there coolant in the overflow bottle?

Driftboy

Well, consider the coolant problem solved, took some hard work but its off, I ended up taking it off by putting a bolt that had sharp edges on it into there welded on a screw and got it off that way. The guy before me really stripped it good. Well, on to the brake problem I just noticed now that the brakes when they are depressed while the car is in neutral not only do they make that clicking noise from what seems to be the master cylinder and control the rev's but they also dim the lights inside the car. Any help on this weird problem would be appreciated.
Thanks again to Rxmfn7 for they coolant fix. And also IwannaFC for the input
-Ryan

Driftboy

bump..... Still got that brake problem....

IwannaFC

may want to check your alternator. Pressing the brakes activates the rear break lights. If your alternator is starting to die, it may not be able to sufficiently provide the extra power to light the brakelights causing the whole electrical system to lose current but since it really only happens during idle, i wouldnt worry about it too much because when your driving your car, the speed at which the alternator is turning at is greater because of the greater engine speed therefor being able to provide the extra oomph needed to power everthing sufficiently. this is just my guess, anyone correct me than please do for the sake of me and driftboy. and as for your brakes , where exactly in your engine bay is it comming from?

Driftboy

Well, the noise seems to be coming from the drivers side from what I can tell. But that's a good point with the alternator I will be sure to get it checked out.
Thanks for the reply
-Ryan

Driftboy

double post

IwannaFC

hey driftboy, we should meetup somewhere, im over in Novi. -a;ex

Driftboy

Ya that'd be cool, where you wanna meet up and when? Either post the or just email me at TheTrueTougeKing@aol.com
-Ryan