Michael Pierce

I am new to RX7's as I am sure some people have read, or after reading this you will clearly see how "noobish" I am. Anyways, I don't know where to start I have been given about 5 different answers and wanted to see what you guys thought.

First problem, idle, I don't know what is going on here but the car has some serious idle problems. When I start it, it will start but won't stay running, I have to play with the throttle till I get the car in gear then after about 10 minutes after it has been running it won't die, but idles at about 300-600rpms, bouncing back and forth. Here is what I was told: Carbon build up will cause idle problems. Idle Positioning Sensor. Idle Air Control Sensor. Lastly someone said it was a dirty air filter and air box.

What do you guys think? Where should I start?


My second problem...Maybe more serious than I know...

I have been getting that warning beep when I start my car lately, It beeps for about 35-50 seconds then stops. The "Low Coolant" light stay's lit up until the beep stops. I am full on coolant so I don't know what is going on there. Well now it won't start period. It had been having a small amount of difficulty, but not enough that I was concerned, I just thought it was me. I tried to start the car and it gets juice but doesn't turn over, I don't hear any noise's and it doesn't seem to respond to the key. I pulled the key out, let out on the clutch, gave it all another shot and it started. This happened about 5 or 6 times in the past 3 days and now it won't start at all. I pulled into a gas station and shut the car off, when I got back in it didn't start. I kept trying to pull the key out let out on the clutch and try again with no luck. The local "Import" service provider (Only place in Muncie that will work on rotaries comfortably) Said it was a clutch switch. A local mechanic had a look at it saying it was the ignition relay switch(Located under the dash on the drivers side above the gas pedal) and my friends and father all seem to think it is the starter.

I did check, all belts/pulleys move just fine, I have plenty of oil, full on coolant, plenty clutch fluid, battery terminals are in good shape, and I reseated the plug wires and also as a last attempt I unplugged the battery(to reset the cpu). What is going on here? I was so excited with my new Mazda RX7 but I can't drive it!

Bring me justice RX7 community!

satch

iTrader: (1)

To clarify a few of things, what year is the car, does it have the factory alarm, and when it doesn't start does the starter engage or not?

20Bforme

check your compression and get back to us.

Michael Pierce

1988 13B NA 10th anniversary edition convertible.

As for the compression I am at work at the moment, and unfortunately won't have a day off for the next 6 days(11 hour days) so I can't get it anywhere. I get 3 day's off and would love nothing more than to take a few stabs at what could be wrong with it and fix it my self. If I take it to a shop they all want me to set up an appointment and then I have to wait a few days then pick the car up(tow it home)

Is there a way for me to check the compression?

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

1 run engine for at least 15 minutes to warm up
2 start removing the top two spark plugs before engine cools down
3 disconnect all spark plug cables and place safely away
4 remove egi fuse located on left side of engine bay by the shock tower
5 connect compression tester to front rotor
6 have an assistant crank the engine while pressing gas pedal all the way down this is like a kill switch for the fuel pump
7 hold down the release valve on the compressor to give you the 3 values and not the highest value
8 if possible record the results for reference and to review later (bounces are quick)
9 repeat for rear rotor the same

satch

iTrader: (1)

On the top of the clutch pedal is a switch (Interlock switch) which has two wires to it where one is Black/Red and the other is Black/Green. Black/Red should have voltage w/key to start and Black/Green has voltagw w/key to start and the clutch depressed. Check both of these accordingly. If they indicate as they should then move on to the Starter Cut relay which is located by the trailing coil and Main relay. This relay looks like the Main relay but it has one blue plug connected to it while the Main relay has two plugs. Remove the blue plug from the Starter Cut relay and there will be two Black/Green wires in addition to a Black/White wire and a Light Green/Yellow wire. Check which Black/Green wire has voltage w/key to on and ignore this wire and focus on the other Black/Green wire. Take a small wire maybe three inches long and bare both ends to expose the wire. Take one end and shove it into the back of the blue plug where the Black/Green wire that you're focused on (continuing to ignore the previous B/G wire) and the other end of the jumper wire is shoved into the back of the blue plug where the Black/White wire resides. This bypasses the relay incase it is inoperable or the other wires are not behaving properly. Then try to start the car. Do this and report back w/the results.

Michael Pierce

I can't get it to turn over, it doesn't do anything...So basically I just need to haul it to a shop to have them check the compression.

*Update*
We towed the car home last night, when we got to about 25 mph I tried to clutch start it. The RPM's went up to normal value and I could just barely hear it running when I stepped on the gas it didn't do a thing and if I pressed the clutch it would just die again. I clutch started it once, left it in 3rd gear at 30mph and while it was "running" I kept hearing it backfire...again when I gave it gas nothing happened but it backfired a small amount the whole time it was in gear with RPM's about 2k-3k

I think I am just going to take it to a Mazda dealer and just tell them to fix whatever they can find wrong with it. I don't want to hurt the car anymore, and I am not sure what is going on with it even...

It's a sad day for me...

satch

iTrader: (1)

How about spending ten minutes of your time and doing what was suggested in post #6 and see where this gets you!

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Weren't all the 10th AEs coupes?

Michael Pierce

Why are you being rude about it? I did spend a few minutes, is it to much for someone to say "I am not comfortable enough to just start messing with things, I don't want to do any more damage." I was not upset or let down with the tips I was given but I didn't find those wires, I can't run a compression test, I think the best thing to do is to let a professional look at it. Not a wannabe(Me).

Next time SAVE ten minutes of your time and stop trying to be a smart-ellick....sheesh....



As for Hazard, I have no idea, I have the badge on the hatch, I have the 10th AE steering wheel and also the VIN, not sure if there is a way to tell if I truly have a 10th AE or not, I would like to know now though.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

he's not being as rude as it may sound. the dealerships have little to no experience on rotary engine vehicles anymore(at least on RX7 models they don't), look around for an experienced rotary technician before wasting money at the dealership.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I apologize if I came off rude. All that is necessary to do what I suggested is a pair of eyes and that is all. The reason why I or any other board member is here is to offer advice that allows you to both learn how to work on your car and at the same time save you some dough as well. Anyone could shell out money to take their car to be serviced and one thing you will learn as "all" have learned is you have to start somewhere regardless of your experience level.

Now if your car has a factory alarm do you know where the Starter cut relay is located? If it doesn't do you know where the trailing coil is located.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it sounds like a clutch switch to me but testing is needed in order to avoid tossing parts at the car. first and foremost he needs to get the starter issue resolved.

to check the clutch switch simply pull off the flat blade connector off the starter and check it for voltage during cranking, if it is getting voltage but still not starting then you have either a faulty ignition switch, starter cut relay or starter.

to test the starter itself run a wire from the battery positive terminal to that flat blade connector and touch it, if it cranks then your starter and wiring from the battery is ok and then you just have 2 components left to diagnose, both of which can cause a power drop when cranking but require a little more sophisticated method of testing. if it doesn't crank with the starter wire then double check the battery wires to the starter and ground, if they are ok let us know and we can help you diagnose the ignition switch/starter cut relay.