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Fellow pre-mixers: How much combustion junk gets in your oil?

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Old 01-05-05, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
Ted is right..... BUT...... to be sure you get the correct oil/ gas ratio...

I cleaned out a 12 ounce gas treatment bottle, fill it with pre-mix... and toss it in the car... then, when it get gas, i pour the premix down the hole and then add 12 gallons of gas. I don't "fill the tank" because you never know exactly how much is in the tank.. Putting the oil in first allows the gas to wash the oil into the tank and mix it at the same time.

I keep two bottle of pre-mix in the car so that I've alway got one incase I'm away from home.
That works really well. I actually keep three bottles. Two are 12oz. bottles for my normal 12 gallon fills, and the third is a 16oz. for when I really run 'er low.
Old 01-05-05, 06:53 PM
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Lol, this topic pops up every two months...

An once per gallon is not a 100:1 ratio, guys, it's 128:1 (you'll need about 1.25 ounces per gal for a 100:1 ratio)...And your mileage suffers a bit at 128:1 versus 100:1...I've been experimenting with ratios for quite a while now, and have concluded that finding the "happy medium" between excessive blowby and adequate lubrication (which can be deduced from the mileage over time) is right about 105:1...The mileage REALLY improves at about 80:1 and "below", but the blowby is a bit too much for my liking.

Because of the blowby/dilution concerns, I go 2,000 miles from an oil change, drop 2 quarts, then add a fresh one, then go another 2K miles until the next oil/filter change. She "adds" about 1/2 quart of blowby fluids per 2K miles...

My theory still stands that worn side housings have a big influence on blowby quantities....
Old 01-05-05, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Lol, this topic pops up every two months...

An once per gallon is not a 100:1 ratio, guys, it's 128:1 (you'll need about 1.25 ounces per gal for a 100:1 ratio)...And your mileage suffers a bit at 128:1 versus 100:1...I've been experimenting with ratios for quite a while now, and have concluded that finding the "happy medium" between excessive blowby and adequate lubrication (which can be deduced from the mileage over time) is right about 105:1...The mileage REALLY improves at about 80:1 and "below", but the blowby is a bit too much for my liking.

Because of the blowby/dilution concerns, I go 2,000 miles from an oil change, drop 2 quarts, then add a fresh one, then go another 2K miles until the next oil/filter change. She "adds" about 1/2 quart of blowby fluids per 2K miles...

My theory still stands that worn side housings have a big influence on blowby quantities....
Since breathing in these 2 cycle fues has lessened my ability to work out mathmatical type stuff, how many qts. of premix would you recommend to be mixing into say... 13 gallons per fill? I've had a feeling that I may be running too much 2 cycle at times, especially when I was dumping 16oz per 13 gallon fill when I first started (phew, that really stunk, lol.)
Old 01-05-05, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by uRizen
Since breathing in these 2 cycle fues has lessened my ability to work out mathmatical type stuff, how many qts. of premix would you recommend to be mixing into say... 13 gallons per fill? I've had a feeling that I may be running too much 2 cycle at times, especially when I was dumping 16oz per 13 gallon fill when I first started (phew, that really stunk, lol.)
Since I'm a pre-mixer for life, would it be recommended to block-off the OMP? Mine is worthless right now. It hardly injects anything (it looks like the connecting rod is really loose) and I'd rather just remove it and add a block-off plate. Will that work, or will I be messing with something I shouldn't be? I'm also wondering about capping off the oil injectors. Can one just thread a bolt in there then cap off the vacuum lines as well?
Old 01-05-05, 09:18 PM
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^I just found the shortest bolts that matched the threads for the 4 oil injectors and the 4 smaller banjo bolts on the front cover part. Then I pulled off the OMP lines and threaded these 8 bolts in their places (with crush washers) to 'cap' off the system... I was told this will be effective, but I'm not sure.. Anyone? (my rebuild's not done yet)
Old 01-05-05, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
^I just found the shortest bolts that matched the threads for the 4 oil injectors and the 4 smaller banjo bolts on the front cover part. Then I pulled off the OMP lines and threaded these 8 bolts in their places (with crush washers) to 'cap' off the system... I was told this will be effective, but I'm not sure.. Anyone? (my rebuild's not done yet)
Cool, I'm gong to do that next oil change (probably going to end up re-running all my vac lines, remove the oil injectors, and the OMP at the same time). Check this pic out:



You can see this person capped their oil injectors with bolts, and used a block-off plate for their OMP. I'll have to get some aluminium and play around with making a block-off.

What kind of wrench did you use to get the injectors off? I tried a few of mine, and none of them will fit between the injector top and the housing.
Old 01-05-05, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by uRizen
Since I'm a pre-mixer for life, would it be recommended to block-off the OMP? Mine is worthless right now. It hardly injects anything (it looks like the connecting rod is really loose) and I'd rather just remove it and add a block-off plate. Will that work, or will I be messing with something I shouldn't be? I'm also wondering about capping off the oil injectors. Can one just thread a bolt in there then cap off the vacuum lines as well?
Hell ya, get rid of all of the OMP related crap. I used a small piece of aluminum and hacked it into the shape of the OMP seating surface, then bolted it down with some black RTV. Hasn't leaked a drop since (prolly about 2 years now).

Beware the length of the bolts you use to plug the oil metering nozzle openings- if they're too long, you'll push the little brass colored orifice into the rotor housing! Use washer(s) under the heads if in doubt...
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