FD twin turbo ECU spliced onto FC s5 Engine Harness
02-20-08, 06:07 PM
#1
dewey
Thread Starter
FD twin turbo ECU spliced onto FC s5 Engine Harness
can this actually be done? using a FD ECU and harness and splicing it together with the s5 engine harness?
s6 ecu and harness to s5 engine harness?
s6 ecu and harness to s5 engine harness?
02-20-08, 06:25 PM
#2
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
No. Well not easily anyway. The FC uses a different crank trigger then the FC as well as different coils.
Your best bet if you want to install a 13B-REW and keep the (sucky) FD ECU is to use the FD wiring harness and strip it down to the point where it is only tied to the car for power and ground.
Ideally, you will want to use a full standalone system as the FD ECU makes it very easy to pop the engine if you are not careful.
Your best bet if you want to install a 13B-REW and keep the (sucky) FD ECU is to use the FD wiring harness and strip it down to the point where it is only tied to the car for power and ground.
Ideally, you will want to use a full standalone system as the FD ECU makes it very easy to pop the engine if you are not careful.
02-20-08, 09:24 PM
#4
Apart from triggering the trailing coils differently between the FC and FD,isn't the FD crank sensor still a 12-1 wheel arrangement using Variable reluctors? The 2nd. gen. CAS is a Variable reluctor 24-2 wheel but spins at half speed making it a 12-1.Unless I'm missing something I would think/guessing it could be used.
02-20-08, 09:31 PM
#5
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
stock FC CAS and coils work with the PFC which is essentially an FD ecu. the things you would need to switch to are FD AIT (air intake temp sensor) and FD/apexi map sensor (speed density 3 wire).
Trending Topics
02-21-08, 03:56 AM
#8
Lives on the Forum
Why bother?
The FD stock MAP sensor is funky and reads up to 1.2-bar of positive pressure.
The stock FC boost sensor reads up to a typical 1.0-bar of positive pressure.
This means if you manage to splice the wires up, the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster is going to read wrong unless you somehow compensate for this offset.
Why are you insisting on doing this the hard way?
The stock water temp gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock boost gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock oil pressure gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
See the pattern?
-Ted
The FD stock MAP sensor is funky and reads up to 1.2-bar of positive pressure.
The stock FC boost sensor reads up to a typical 1.0-bar of positive pressure.
This means if you manage to splice the wires up, the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster is going to read wrong unless you somehow compensate for this offset.
Why are you insisting on doing this the hard way?
The stock water temp gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock boost gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock oil pressure gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
See the pattern?
-Ted
02-21-08, 06:03 AM
#9
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,840
Received 509 Likes
on
345 Posts
Why bother?
The FD stock MAP sensor is funky and reads up to 1.2-bar of positive pressure.
The stock FC boost sensor reads up to a typical 1.0-bar of positive pressure.
This means if you manage to splice the wires up, the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster is going to read wrong unless you somehow compensate for this offset.
Why are you insisting on doing this the hard way?
The stock water temp gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock boost gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock oil pressure gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
See the pattern?
-Ted
The FD stock MAP sensor is funky and reads up to 1.2-bar of positive pressure.
The stock FC boost sensor reads up to a typical 1.0-bar of positive pressure.
This means if you manage to splice the wires up, the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster is going to read wrong unless you somehow compensate for this offset.
Why are you insisting on doing this the hard way?
The stock water temp gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock boost gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock oil pressure gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
See the pattern?
-Ted
Didn't you see that documentary about that tofu delivery kid. There were these guys that had an FC and an FD. The FD was so much more of a badass drift car...
If you can't afford an FD and you want a badass drift car, put as many FD parts on your FC...
Hell, I take a little red wagon with me to the scrap yard to carry parts around. It'd always tip over if I turned with it due to the weight of the tools and all.
Man, I threw a mid 80's RWD Corolla alternator in the wagon and it and it was instantaneously turned into a mad dorifto machine.
It gained like 8 deg of negative camber. (More is better) and the tire contact patch got much larger.
Next, I'm gonna start throwing parts from a 240SX in there.
02-21-08, 12:21 PM
#11
registered user
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NOPE, they use reluctors just like the FC. I swapped my haltech from 13b-re to rew WITHOUT changing any haltech trigger settings.
The FD trigger produces exactly the same signal as the FC trigger.
Second there would be a an issue with the the trailing coils, but this would be easy to work around. With one more FC lead igniter.
For the original poster:
finally, there are about 20 input or output conditions that would cause the FD computer to throw the car into limp mode. Unless you are a very accomplished back yard mechanic AND electronics hobbyist, then you will not finish this project successfully. I made an FD stock computer run a 13b-rew in an FC, with everything including the check engine light and all smog controls so I could have a street legal 13b-rew swap. Let me put it this way, it took at least 20-25 hours of work to do this. It took 2-3 hours to rip it out and replace it with a haltech.
The FD trigger produces exactly the same signal as the FC trigger.
Second there would be a an issue with the the trailing coils, but this would be easy to work around. With one more FC lead igniter.
For the original poster:
finally, there are about 20 input or output conditions that would cause the FD computer to throw the car into limp mode. Unless you are a very accomplished back yard mechanic AND electronics hobbyist, then you will not finish this project successfully. I made an FD stock computer run a 13b-rew in an FC, with everything including the check engine light and all smog controls so I could have a street legal 13b-rew swap. Let me put it this way, it took at least 20-25 hours of work to do this. It took 2-3 hours to rip it out and replace it with a haltech.
Last edited by slo; 02-21-08 at 12:31 PM.
02-21-08, 12:34 PM
#12
dewey
Thread Starter
Why bother?
The FD stock MAP sensor is funky and reads up to 1.2-bar of positive pressure.
The stock FC boost sensor reads up to a typical 1.0-bar of positive pressure.
This means if you manage to splice the wires up, the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster is going to read wrong unless you somehow compensate for this offset.
Why are you insisting on doing this the hard way?
The stock water temp gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock boost gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock oil pressure gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
See the pattern?
-Ted
The FD stock MAP sensor is funky and reads up to 1.2-bar of positive pressure.
The stock FC boost sensor reads up to a typical 1.0-bar of positive pressure.
This means if you manage to splice the wires up, the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster is going to read wrong unless you somehow compensate for this offset.
Why are you insisting on doing this the hard way?
The stock water temp gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock boost gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
The stock oil pressure gauge sucks - get an aftermarket one.
See the pattern?
-Ted
02-22-08, 04:39 PM
#15
im doing a FD engine swap in my car and i change the harness to a FD one and if i did knew that if changing the wiring is was going to take me 2 month to figure it out and be such a pain in the trash, i wouldnt done it, if youre going to keep the stock turbo II engine, buy the adapter for the power FC in banzay racing and put a second igniter on the trailing coils and youre good to go.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
befarrer
Microtech
3
08-22-15 05:52 PM
