Looking at buying a used FD oil cooler setup (twins with banjo bolts)

I'm currently running Racing beat lines into the stock oil cooler which is blocked and crushed now.

Can I simple take a FD setup and just get some an fittings for my racing beat lines and join them to a new set of hoses and hook these into the OEM plumbing? (I'll buy AN fiftings for the Housing side and then attached some Braided lines onto those, and the other end on the oil cooler side will get some pressure fittings that are appropriate.) So If I go back to the S5 Oil cooler I can just disconnect and install the stock unit.

The Thermostats should be the same, and the only issue I for-see is making mounting tabs for installing under the pop-up headlights.

Would I be missing something important? Pressure wise I don't see issues? I believe the regulator isn't installed anywhere out of the housings.

Just need some insight before I buy a used set.

 

What is your reasoning for going through all this work when you can just replace your existing stock oil cooler much cheaper and move-on with more important issues.

 

Hmm, running largest FMIC available... would be the first reason to come to mind for most.

If it was that simple I would. The other option is to get all new lines setup and run the oil cooler in front of the F MIC, but I don't need hot air charge into my engine..............................

 

I must be a trend setter.... I can't seem to get any feedback on anything. Well I'll post update even though trying to buy a stock kit is harder then it would seem? because when I asked the sellers what year it came off of I don't get a reply.
Must be hard to find what year of FD you owned. Better off anyways not getting a reply as they're selling their never oil changed and heavily neglected fd's freshly imported.

 

I ran dual FD oil coolers for a about 5 years (when I attempted to run a FMIC, where there wasn't enough airflow to the OEM oil cooler with the FMIC)

I ran my setup in series, instead of parallel like the OEM FD setup, and I also made my own -10 an hoses. The oil hoses went from the engine, all the way to the front of the car, where they were plumbed into a -10 an Tee fitting (2 T fittings) Each T fitting had a hose going to each FD oil cooler (routed under the reinforced plastic bumper) and the third fitting of the T going to one of the engine oil hose.

Recently removed the FD oil coolers, since I am no longer running a FMIC, and installed a MASIVE 72 row sebtrap oil cooler where the OEM FC oil cooler used to sit.

If I had to do it again, I wouldn't. There is not a whole lot of space under the headlight buckets, the FD oil coolers are not an upgrade to the FC oil cooler, and the expense in fittings, braided hoses is substantial.

 

You aren't a trend setter, this is why.

 

Largest FMIC available? Why?

How much power are you planning on making? Just as a quick reference, my FMIC is roughly 3 x 24ish x 18ish. It fits behind the bumper without any cutting. The stock bumper reinforcement is in place. The stock oil cooler fits perfectly. There has never been any cooling issue with the car using a Fluidyne rad and GM e-fan. Just over 500RWHP. IATs on the dyno are about 20 - 40 degrees over ambient.

My point is, that one doesn't need the "largest FMIC available". Especially if it causes issues.

FD owners use our oil cooler as an upgrade.

I've installed a LOT of FMICs on FCs and have never had to move around the oil cooler, even a little. Unless you are doing some sort of V mount? Even still, I'd recommend finding a spot for the stock oil cooler. It's about the best you can get from an OEM.

 

> Correct let's just say I like the color pink to reply to all the posts above.


I've read into this plenty, having the stock oil cooler as your go-to and is very common to run high numbers with zero consequences. OEM oil cooler 0 issues.

With 1" clearance off my cross-member from the pavement I don't have the option of lowering it. I don't have the option of leaving it in-between the F MIC and Radiator as It just overheats: 0 air flow

The simplest option is to keep adding in my situation sadly. I don't mention all the clearances and placement of parts is very poor, but it's not very reversible in
"my situation", can't acquire what I need locally and if that's my only option then it's just that.

Put it this way; I have to place the oil cooler in a new location where would you suggest. Available locations include Left fog light and Right fog light for availability.

It's stupid because of my personal choices and previous owners modifications I can't aruge that but can this be worked around for low output numbers.. I'm wrong and I just want to move forward even though I'm working around a simple solution.

 

It's exactly what you've mentioned above Stock oil cooler stock location / Fmic same location.

220RWHP solid levels are between 70-100C degrees cruising speeds at 100+ aren't acceptable. 110-120 reached in minutes isn't suitable for 10*C outside ambient temp.

All other options have been tested and adjusted: introducing fresh air with mechanical tests show improvements so next move is to change location to allow 100% flow increase versus 0%

 

Sooo many options, yet I don't even get a reply for my input, guess you are right, I a NOT a trend setter

Guess he missed the MASSIVE 72 row sebtrap oil cooler in the factory location part

 

Setrab.

 

every FD from 12/91 to 4/02 got the same oil coolers. after 12/95 they all got dual oil coolers. so answering the question only tells you if the seller is a robot or not.

the US and Canadian ones have model years, and the vin tells you twice what year it is, along with other redundant info like what country it was built in and what the assembly plant was; of which every Rx7 was built in Hiroshima.

the JDM cars are a little harder as model year is an abstract concept to begin with, so the vin only tells you what series the car was I-VI, build date is on the vin tag though

 

More of a bot testing question plus, asking the year is a Canadian question to see if he imported the car.

Pretty rare to find parts that didn't come off someones rhd fd3s.

I don't think anyone here enjoys buying parts with zero information besides a prefix for title.


Long story short I'll buy a set and setup them where I like, I didn't state in the title of this thread looking to break world record and exceed numbers to god like levels.

"Trend setter" is more so a first to question this, not who did this first. Google FC3S / FD3S oil cooler and you'll end up looking at everything but. I have accounts on NZ and AUS forums that are blocked without account access and they seem to have more knowledge on this topic along with photos... hmmf.

Does it work? Yes
Is there better options? Yes
Should I spent alot of money and spend weeks getting what I need? Maybe
Will I do what I want: like I always do? Id imagine
Do I post topics about questions alot? Yes
Do these posts give me any information? Little
Do I care? Not really
Do I end up finding a solution? Yes 100% of the time so far.

Thanks for input KNONFS, and Aaron Cake.

 

Why not move the oil cooler up into the airflow?

Sort of depends how your intercooler is set up but there is a fair amount of space between the reinforcement bar and rad. Some simple angle iron welded onto the reinforcement bar can position the cooler up in the air stream.

Also depends on airflow of course. If you have a weak e-fan, or a worn out stock fan, then there won't be enough air.

Are you missing the undertray? If so, nothing will force air through the tunnel that leads to the rad. It is remarkable the effect that undertray has on lowering oil temps.

I gather the use of the car is for "drifting". That being the case, FMIC in general is a poor choice due to lack of airflow. Unless you install some crazy fans. Best bet is a V-mount.

But, crazy fans are possible too without much effort. The fans I used on my Cosmo project are dual Derale fans, very close or the same as these:
Dual Powerpacks : High Output Dual 11" Electric RAD Fan/Aluminum Shroud Kit - 23-3/4"W x 19-3/4"H x 4-1/2"D

With some fitting they will work fine on the FC rad.

 

my point was simply that every FD had the same oil cooler setup, the RHD and LHD setups are identical. the smaller point was that after 1996, every FD got the dual oil coolers.

just simple information.

putting the FD coolers in an FC seems to get done in Japan here and there, this one is from the late 90's
on this forum it is more common to run 2 FC oil coolers

 

That's what I said, right?

Thanks for the correction

 

Top mount style would be most efficient in this situation. notably would solve 100% of problems but that would again run into a parts run. I would find myself running the crazy fans, along with a realistic shroud to pull and push more flow.

It's in the point of no return with well over 90% fabrication required *Literal*, not figurative
The movement of oil cooler is 100% confirmed with lengthening or replacing with two "inferior", coolers. the under-try is installed in the original location.

Mounting crazy fans on a modern probe style relay would probably suffice: The Issue I had before was using stock leading ignition relay to apply a weak 12v source.

Yes, I've read this long ago... Troubleshooting RX-7 Cooling Problems btw.
The only reason why this topic was created was to allow myself to run a lesser-solution that would ease by adding not back-tracking to complete something that has a value that isn't suitable for the situation.

I understand this is a No for most. I''ll attempt to close the thread for a second time, but I agree this isn't optimal for the 2nd time.