which fc would be the best for drifting
#51
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Karack
why can't we create more enthusiasts?
Last edited by rx7b13; 06-20-05 at 04:22 PM.
#52
Rotary Enthusiast
Techniques: (are the easiest ways)
(Kansei Drift): this is performed at race speeds, when entering a high speed corner a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. (note the car that is being used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car therefore the over steer will induce itself, if the car plows through any turn this technique will not work).
Braking drift: this is performed by trail braking into a corner, then loss of grip is obtained and then balance through steering and throttle motions. (note this is mainly for medium to low speed corners).
(Faint Drift): this is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. (note this is heavy rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly tight mountain corners).
(Clutch Kick): this is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then pop the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
Shift Lock: this is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires inducing over steer. (this is like pulling the E-brake through a turn, note this should be performed in the wet to minimize damage to the driveline etc).
E-Brake Drift: this technique is very basic, pull the E-Brake or (side brake) to induce rear traction loss and balance drift through steering and throttle play. (note this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles).
Dirt Drop Drift: this is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. (note this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars).
Jump Drift: in this technique the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
Long Slide Drift: this is done by pulling the E-brake through a strait to start a high angel drift and to hold this to set up for the turn ahead. (note this can only be done at high speed).
(Swaying Drift): this is a slow side-to-side faint like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a strait.
FF Drift: or front wheel drive drift. The E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques must be used to balance the car through a corner. (note the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift).
(Power Over): this performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy oversteer (tail slide) through the turn. (note need horsepower to make this happen).
(Kansei Drift): this is performed at race speeds, when entering a high speed corner a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. (note the car that is being used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car therefore the over steer will induce itself, if the car plows through any turn this technique will not work).
Braking drift: this is performed by trail braking into a corner, then loss of grip is obtained and then balance through steering and throttle motions. (note this is mainly for medium to low speed corners).
(Faint Drift): this is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. (note this is heavy rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly tight mountain corners).
(Clutch Kick): this is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then pop the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
Shift Lock: this is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires inducing over steer. (this is like pulling the E-brake through a turn, note this should be performed in the wet to minimize damage to the driveline etc).
E-Brake Drift: this technique is very basic, pull the E-Brake or (side brake) to induce rear traction loss and balance drift through steering and throttle play. (note this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles).
Dirt Drop Drift: this is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. (note this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars).
Jump Drift: in this technique the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
Long Slide Drift: this is done by pulling the E-brake through a strait to start a high angel drift and to hold this to set up for the turn ahead. (note this can only be done at high speed).
(Swaying Drift): this is a slow side-to-side faint like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a strait.
FF Drift: or front wheel drive drift. The E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques must be used to balance the car through a corner. (note the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift).
(Power Over): this performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy oversteer (tail slide) through the turn. (note need horsepower to make this happen).
#53
Play Well
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Originally Posted by fc3sfan
im 19 but i live in the country and i have had a d.l. sence i was 14 and there are meny hills and curvry roads were i live so i am a becomeing good driver with a very bad car....i dont even want to say what i own right now just becuse its imbarasing
i normly have been stuck with 500$ cars and i just have never modded them becuse i hated them all, but i did have a 1980 toyota corrola and that was a decent car
well i understand if you think im just a young untalendted driver and am asking ? due to movies and tv
im sorry if i am coming of as a jerk its just not meny people take me serius
rhscare:
thanks for the info
anymore help from any one would be nice!
i normly have been stuck with 500$ cars and i just have never modded them becuse i hated them all, but i did have a 1980 toyota corrola and that was a decent car
well i understand if you think im just a young untalendted driver and am asking ? due to movies and tv
im sorry if i am coming of as a jerk its just not meny people take me serius
rhscare:
thanks for the info
anymore help from any one would be nice!
Being a fellow Wisconsinite raises a question, where on earth did you get a driver's license at 14?
And living in the country, I can say, it's much more fun to drive through turns, than slide through them. Take them don't slide through them.
That's the problem with kids these days, they think they can just slide through everything.
Don't drift, take it to the strip.
#54
carless beginner
Join Date: Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by rx7b13
I dont mess with the E-brake that will screw up your tires. http://www.clubfc3s.com/3big.jpg
And if you hate 240s then you hate drifting. LOl j/k i know you don't hate 240s. But you should listen to everybody when the say that 240s are good at drifting there is a repuation for a reason.
#55
Rotary Enthusiast
i like 240's there is i guy that lives south of me and he has a skyline engine in his 240 but im talking about like the scca not f1 cars since they only have the 1 tire change rule, and i didnt think that f1 racing is a drifting contest i though it was road racing. also you most deffinately go through turns faster when your not drifting. Drifting is an artform of the skill of the driver and car together. its based on points and how smooth you through a turn, not how fast. drift racing is when you race a guy but your competeing for points on how you go through the turns its not judged on speed or who is infront of the other guy.
#56
Tear you apart
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by wotnartd
Being a fellow Wisconsinite raises a question, where on earth did you get a driver's license at 14?
And living in the country, I can say, it's much more fun to drive through turns, than slide through them. Take them don't slide through them.
That's the problem with kids these days, they think they can just slide through everything.
Don't drift, take it to the strip.
And living in the country, I can say, it's much more fun to drive through turns, than slide through them. Take them don't slide through them.
That's the problem with kids these days, they think they can just slide through everything.
Don't drift, take it to the strip.
Good luck if you try with an FC. We'll see if you actually go threw with it and have fun. Play it safe or you may end up typing a future post with a stick on your forehead ;o!
And about the license at the age of 14, in Minnesota you can get a drivers liscense when you're 14 if you live on a farm (like a farmers liscense or something), and you can get one if you life in a family where the guardians are impared.
#57
Junior Member
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Location: wisconsin
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its a sepecail licen you can only drive for work/ school purpesec and you can only drive before dark
but there is one cop withing 100miles and my mom did not care when or were i drove...as long as she did not have drive me then it was fine with her
and i have fun when i drive corners if you dont that to bad for you
but there is one cop withing 100miles and my mom did not care when or were i drove...as long as she did not have drive me then it was fine with her
and i have fun when i drive corners if you dont that to bad for you
#59
strike up the paean
Originally Posted by jksolid
... wow i was under the impression that drifting in general kills your tire life.
i don't know how not e-braking will save your tires vs. other forms of breaking traction
#61
Turbo Wannabe
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Grip is the fastest way through any turn on pavement (rediculously tight radius turns excluded).
If you live in Wisconsin chances are there isn't anyone around you that knows how to build a rotary engine. So I'd probably stick with an NA so you can abuse it and still drive it for years. As far as suspension mods I would stick to just front and rear sway bars and some good tires. Tires, more than anything, affect how well a car handles. Save your money and don't buy a cone filter, they don't help very much (if any) in an FC with the stock ECU because the MAF is the biggest restriction in the intake. The stock airbox is not very restrictive anyway. If you want cheap exhaust then buy a header from racing beat and have someone build a straight pipe to the Ypipe. Leave the stock mufflers and you'll have a cheap good flowing exhaust. If you have the money you can get a header, presilencer, and some borla XR-1 mufflers. Also, running just single exhaust is a viable alternative. Suspension and exhaust together would only run you like 700-1500 (depending on which type of exhaust you run) and get you a pretty good power gain without affecting reliability.
As far as learning, Personally I've never been able to learn how to drive in an enviroment where spinning would mean seriously damaging my car and my wellness. Find the closest SCCA chapter and Autocross with them for a season or so and you'll really KNOW the limits of your car, and have an Idea of where the limits are on most other cars you will drive. Learning from your mistakes is a lot faster than being scared to push it too hard and run into a tree.
If you live in Wisconsin chances are there isn't anyone around you that knows how to build a rotary engine. So I'd probably stick with an NA so you can abuse it and still drive it for years. As far as suspension mods I would stick to just front and rear sway bars and some good tires. Tires, more than anything, affect how well a car handles. Save your money and don't buy a cone filter, they don't help very much (if any) in an FC with the stock ECU because the MAF is the biggest restriction in the intake. The stock airbox is not very restrictive anyway. If you want cheap exhaust then buy a header from racing beat and have someone build a straight pipe to the Ypipe. Leave the stock mufflers and you'll have a cheap good flowing exhaust. If you have the money you can get a header, presilencer, and some borla XR-1 mufflers. Also, running just single exhaust is a viable alternative. Suspension and exhaust together would only run you like 700-1500 (depending on which type of exhaust you run) and get you a pretty good power gain without affecting reliability.
As far as learning, Personally I've never been able to learn how to drive in an enviroment where spinning would mean seriously damaging my car and my wellness. Find the closest SCCA chapter and Autocross with them for a season or so and you'll really KNOW the limits of your car, and have an Idea of where the limits are on most other cars you will drive. Learning from your mistakes is a lot faster than being scared to push it too hard and run into a tree.
#64
The Silent but Deadly Mod
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by jksolid
... wow i was under the impression that drifting in general kills your tire life. Which is also why it isn't used in f1 racing. The best way to when a f1 race is to keep your tires as long as possible. the only time you are not going over 100 is when you are pitting. the fact that f1 cars are designed to keep traction is another reason not to drift. Every car generally as a purpose and an ideal driving techinque.
#65
88 sex kthx
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for some reason I always found it easy to drift my 7. Although it was usually out on an abandoned airstrip or parking lot (and not everything I did would probably be considered drifting) I just found it fun as heck to drive. I'll never get rid of my Rx-7, except to trade up for an FD
#69
Nipples
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Hey, does anyone know if removing the DTSS bushings makes lift-off over steer easier to achieve? My only gripe with the FC is how rediculously stable it is getting on and off the accelerator. The car is for nOObs maybe?
#70
strike up the paean
every car in stock trim is for n00bs. no car manufacturer wants massive amounts of people dying in their cars.
if you want easy lift off oversteer
set the car for stupid amounts oversteer
or turn harder before you throttle lift
if a integra can throttle lift oversteer stock, so can a stock rx7
if you want easy lift off oversteer
set the car for stupid amounts oversteer
or turn harder before you throttle lift
if a integra can throttle lift oversteer stock, so can a stock rx7
#72
Nipples
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OK....any one else?
It seems to me that the toe changing in the rear might be effecting the ability to rotate the end around on lift-off. Stupid amounts of oversteer as a set up isn't an option b/c the car sees plenty of touge action. So, anybody actually have some real experience with removed DTSS that can chime ni here?
Also, yeah Infini would be nice..but seems like it would be hard to get over here..and not worth buying a whole differenct car just to get trailing throttle oversteer.
It seems to me that the toe changing in the rear might be effecting the ability to rotate the end around on lift-off. Stupid amounts of oversteer as a set up isn't an option b/c the car sees plenty of touge action. So, anybody actually have some real experience with removed DTSS that can chime ni here?
Also, yeah Infini would be nice..but seems like it would be hard to get over here..and not worth buying a whole differenct car just to get trailing throttle oversteer.
#74
Nipples
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My question still stands. This seems like the appropriate place to ask this question anyhow.
Some people just don't understand the grace and art involved with drifting. But that's OK, I'm a gripper too
Some people just don't understand the grace and art involved with drifting. But that's OK, I'm a gripper too
#75
strike up the paean
i seem to recall reading
the rear toe thingy is actually bad for performance driving because it *contributes* to unstable / unpredictable oversteer
similar to nissan HICAS
anyway
just get the toe eliminator bushings
they are cheap
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=14050
40 bucks.
the rear toe thingy is actually bad for performance driving because it *contributes* to unstable / unpredictable oversteer
similar to nissan HICAS
anyway
just get the toe eliminator bushings
they are cheap
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=14050
40 bucks.
Last edited by aznpoopy; 06-22-05 at 02:42 AM.