2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Fc turbo II 1988

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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 09:22 PM
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Fc turbo II 1988

It started at first I took for a spin around my neighborhood and then I didnt touch it for 2 weeks and now it won’t crank or start up. Im not sure if this is important but it also lost pressure on the gas pedal as in its loose . But not quite sure what the problem is
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 09:31 PM
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It's flooded my man.

Rotary Performance - Tech - 86-91 Unflood Procedures
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 05:31 AM
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If there's no pressure on the gas pedal, I would check to make sure that the throttle cable is still seated in the mount on the back of the dynamic chamber. Often times the nuts work loose and the cable pops out of the U shaped bracket. You can also check to make sure the ball of the cable is seated in the gas pedal itself.

Is the engine rotating when you turn the key? When you say that it won't "crank up", it makes me feel as though the engine is not even cranking when the key is cycled to the start position. Clarify that and we can go from there.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
If there's no pressure on the gas pedal, I would check to make sure that the throttle cable is still seated in the mount on the back of the dynamic chamber. Often times the nuts work loose and the cable pops out of the U shaped bracket. You can also check to make sure the ball of the cable is seated in the gas pedal itself.

Is the engine rotating when you turn the key? When you say that it won't "crank up", it makes me feel as though the engine is not even cranking when the key is cycled to the start position. Clarify that and we can go from there.
My bad for the confusion but yeah it won’t rotate but the battery is good because the lights and etc turn on just no clicking noise when I turn the key. Sorry don’t really know much about this but Im trying.
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 05:35 AM
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You need to raise the car and check to makes sure the connections on the starter are clean and secure. Sometimes the single female blade connector will corrode or work loose and cause a no crank condition. Once you have verified this, you can have someone turn the key to the start position and check for 12V switched power at the female blade connector. If you do get 12V, then its probable that you have a bad starter solenoid. You can also remove the starter and have a local auto parts store test it for you.

You will also want to make sure the grounds are clean and secure. A ground that is secured by a bolt is grounded through the threads of the bolt. Ensure the bolt is free of corrosion and that the ground connector is clean as well. AaronCake has a great writeup on his website for locating and cleaning grounds.
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 06:51 PM
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You know your battery is good? How? Because it can provide 20 amps to turn on the lights? And since you know it can provide 20 amps, that means it has enough to start the battery? I don’t think so. You need to load test the battery.

Proper procedure to diagnose would be to check for constant power at the main starter wire. Then disconnect the starter solenoid wire and have someone hold the key in cranking position and test for power at that wire. If these are both good, you either have a dead battery or dead starter. If you don’t have power at the solenoid wire, you have to check upstream. Check continuity of the clutch switch...


or just search. This is an overly simple problem that is related to any car.
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 05:39 PM
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It could be a bad starter... I had a 88 GTU that didn't start by the key but it did when push started. Check your starter on or off the car. If you don't know what to do, just remove it and bring to a parts store to test. Best of luck!
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