Hey guy, im looking to get a FC but i just wanna know whats the difference between a TII and an NA ... I know of course a TURBO and stuff..(obviously) but like.. if i were to get a NA what EXACTLY would i need to do in order to get it to be identical to a TII. (insurance purposes..) any help?

 

there is a link at the top of the 2nd Generation Specific (1986-92) FORUM that is labbled FAQ's Read it the info you are looking for is there.

 

i'm a noob telling another noob to read the FAQ at the top of the forum, it's like the second link down

 

thanks a lot guys.. and you're right..i am a noob.

 

If you want a turbo, your best bet is not to buy an na and just buy a turboII.

 

well for starters, you wont have the vented hood scoop

and some other things..

 

well, i of course considered just getting a TII but its really hard to find one in decent condition, and to be honest, i dont know all that much about cars in the first place. (not yet atleast..taking a class next year). I dont want to end up buying a janky TII and getting dicked.. But there are some nice NA's i've seen. But i did read the stuff that jreynish told me to go, and it was pretty damn complicating.. Risk is with the TII? or go with the NA and convert it?

 

Well go out of your area and find a decently running TII. Since you claim you don't know jack about cars, read the buying a seven topic in the faq at the top of the page. The TII is worth it for the performance, but if you don't know jack about cars maybe you should stick with an NA becuase its easier to grasp than a turbo car if your learning.

I bought the NA becuase it was a good price, if I could go back I still would have bought it because of the price im doing a turbo "adaptation" right now and I didn't know anything about sevens when I first came here.

 

It also depends on what you are expecting to get out of the car. If you want a car that is reliable I would say go with an N/A that is in good shape to begin with and it should not give you much problems, and you could always drop a turboII power/drivetrain. If you know for a fact that you want a turbocharged rotary, I would recommend to wait until you find a TII is good shape(unibody wise). Then you can take your time rebuilding the motor, and you will have very nice/fast/reliable car. This also assumes that you will be able to afford the downtime(read: not daily driver).

 

everything is different. it will cost alot more to convert a NA to a turbo then to buy a turbo

 

first of all, thanks to everyone. I love this site. everyone is so responsive. well, i did find a S4 TII worth considering for $3500. New JDM engine w/ 10K mi. on it, Blitz BOV, HKS intake, straight pipe with magnaflow exhaust, and the extior is converted to a S5. But i hear that a straight pipe isnt good for passing emissions.. true? Also, the guy says it has an exhaust leak, and it a salvage title (was stolen). How much work would that take to fix? and how much?

 

I guarentee that you will NOT be able to pass emissions with the straight pipe. Use the search again but this time look for "pass emissions" or something along those lines, there is a guide on how to pass the emission testing for a day. It involves alot of things, but is a must.

Personally, since you live in CA, I would suggest that you at the LEAST buy some kind of performance Catalatyc converter. Second, change all the plugs with new, third get some new spark plug wires, fourth, change the o2 sensor. Actually, just read the guide, it tells you. Was it not in the faq? I forgot. If not, search for it.

As for the exhaust leak, it really depends where it is. If its from the downpipe-onward, I wouldn't think much. You could patch it up.
If its the manifold, then thats a whole different story, especially if its warped/cracked.

good luck

 

bonez high flow cat has been shown to pass emissions and not have that much difference in performance from a presilencer (some FD dyno test they did a while back?). Exhuast leak shouldn't be too hard to fix. If your manifold's cracked, the for-sale section is always selling manifolds and junk at pretty good prices if you're looking for one.

 

Hmm, "new" 10k mile J-spec motor? You might want to try and find some more info about this motor. You should definitely do a compression test. (search)

I think you'll be happy whether you get an N/A or a TII. But if you forsee yourself wanting more power in the future, don't bother with the N/A to turbo swap, just get the TII initially (and save yourself the trouble and the $).

Good luck and READ the buyers guide in the FAQ or at aaroncakes website (I think).