I'm installing a set of TII brake calipers and brackets on the rear of my narrowed GSL-SE rear end that I'm installing in a Datsun Roadster that didn't have brakes on it. I'm using a big brake bracket from a member. Looking at this caliper and how it is clocked in my rear end, it looks like it will be easier to run e-brake cables if I were to swap the L/R calipers. I've seen pictures of others doing this but I don't know if they just screwed up. Ordinarily the concern would be to make sure the bleeder screw is up to get air out, but in this case there are two bleeder screws. Do you use both or just the highest one? Also I see some videos where people rotate the caliper up while leaving one pin in, so it doesn't seem to matter on the bleeding as long as I ensure I have a long enough rubber brake house connecting to the axle housing to allow caliper rotation.

Also, one of my ebrake brackets appears to be stuck (caliper was a new rebuild unit from Rockauto). Is there any procedure to loosen the e-brake when I don't even have cables on it yet?

 

the way Mazda installed the calipers, you do need both bleeders.

however, Ford has trucks where they put the same caliper on both sides, so flipping these around may make bleeding interesting, but other than that its totally fine.

you might also look at FD or GSL-SE rear calipers, they all take the same brake pad, but only the FC caliper has the double bleeder screw

 

Can't get GSL-SE calipers and brackets, so I went this route and now I'm past the rubicon. So I need to figure out a way to make this work. Sounds like I'm ok just need to rotate the caliper around the pin to make sure each one is bled while being on top.
Any idea on why an ebrake might be "stuck?" And how one releases it once compressed?

 

i've had a couple where the fix for a stuck e brake was to take the caliper off and screw the piston in, keep in mind these cars were sitting forever, so something sticks, and once its unstuck it works.