2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

FC T2 S4 ignition problem (rare)

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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Exclamation FC T2 S4 ignition problem (rare)

A few weeks ago I used my FC normally, everything worked fine.
Didn't drive it for about 2 weeks, and now when I try to turn it on... I get no response.

My car's a '87 T2 FC, completely stock.
Starter's ok, but I get no spark.

I checked the CAS resistante between terminals and looks ok
Coil resistance looks ok

I tried checking with a timing light, and I get a single pulse when then engine's turning... just that, one pulse. I try again... and again, that, a single pulse.

Engine has good compression, was running great... rebuilt just 3k miles ago.

Why might this be? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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From: cold
check fuses
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by arghx
check fuses
all fuses are ok
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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From: tulsa,ok.
We'll assume the car turns over but your statements contradict each other. ("no response, but engine turns") Check the B/Y wire at the leading coil two wire White plug for battery voltage w/key to on. Also, check the B/W wire at the four wire Green check connector located near the leading coil for battery voltage w/key to on as well. This will verify that the Main Relay works properly.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
We'll assume the car turns over but your statements contradict each other. ("no response, but engine turns") Check the B/Y wire at the leading coil two wire White plug for battery voltage w/key to on. Also, check the B/W wire at the four wire Green check connector located near the leading coil for battery voltage w/key to on as well. This will verify that the Main Relay works properly.

Check the B/Y wire at the leading coil two wire White plug for battery voltage w/key to on.
OK 11v (using battery ground)

Check the B/W wire at the four wire Green check connector located near the leading coil for battery voltage w/key to on as well.
OK 11v (using battery ground)

Last edited by X-ELE; Dec 8, 2011 at 08:50 AM. Reason: add info
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Check the voltage on the Brown wire at the TPS w/key to on with no plugs/connectors disconnected. This would indicate the ECU is powered and its internals are for the most part working. And how did you check for spark?
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
Check the voltage on the Brown wire at the TPS w/key to on with no plugs/connectors disconnected. This would indicate the ECU is powered and its internals are for the most part working. And how did you check for spark?
Check the voltage on the Brown wire at the TPS w/key to on with no plugs/connectors disconnected
5v- OK?

And how did you check for spark?
Checking with a timing light in Leadnig L1 coil, and I get a single (ONE) pulse when then engine's turning
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by X-ELE
Check the voltage on the Brown wire at the TPS w/key to on with no plugs/connectors disconnected
5v- OK?

And how did you check for spark?
Checking with a timing light in Leadnig L1 coil, and I get a single (ONE) pulse when then engine's turning
How about pulling the plug boot off of the leading coil bore and placing the boot within a fraction of an inch of the bore and turn the engine over and see if you notice any spark.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 12:28 PM
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This happened to me a few weeks ago. It turned out to simply be a bad connection on the plug wires due to me unplugging them a bunch of times, and then of course the plugs got fouled because there was no spark and the engine was flooding... replaced plugs and wires, bam, works perfectly again.

This took me a while to figure out because my plugs were new, and my wires were relatively new as well, so I didn't think they could go bad that quickly. Oh how wrong I was
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
How about pulling the plug boot off of the leading coil bore and placing the boot within a fraction of an inch of the bore and turn the engine over and see if you notice any spark.
the same, one spark ....



Originally Posted by Osirus9
This happened to me a few weeks ago. It turned out to simply be a bad connection on the plug wires due to me unplugging them a bunch of times, and then of course the plugs got fouled because there was no spark and the engine was flooding... replaced plugs and wires, bam, works perfectly again.

This took me a while to figure out because my plugs were new, and my wires were relatively new as well, so I didn't think they could go bad that quickly. Oh how wrong I was

i not hope about this... but say "what the ****"... it´s WORKING!!!!

i use old wires, different resistance ... but working!!

Thanks people !!!
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