When I first installed the unit, someone had backed into my car a few days earlier and according to everyone else, my car was going to be totaled. Prior to the accident I had planned to solder many of the wires in. With the accident in mind, I wanted to install the system so that it could be easily removed from the car if need be (I've been wanting remote start/ keyless entry for years, so I was very impatient...). Luckily the car wasn't written off. I made sure all the connections were secure, and they seem to be holding up well. If I have any problems with the wiring, I'll definitely end up soldering the connections. But for now, I'm going to leave it as is (I need a break from electrical work for a little while ).

 

Thanks a lot for the posts! I just happened to have ordered a Viper keyless entry system when I saw this thread. You saved me a bunch of time digging through the wiring diagrams looking for all the connections I needed. I ended up copping out and using t-taps as well; didn't feel like going through all the hassle soldering upside down under the dash. It's working great so far, and I even managed to more or less loom everything together across the steering column.

 

My take on crimps vs. solder.

http://www.rbba.us/documents/crimping.pdf

Do it right and you will have no problems.

 

Glad it helped you out, man! When I did this I couldn't really find any good info for a keyless entry/ remote start install on an FC, so I wanted to put a pretty complete one out there. I don't have much history with electrical work, but it's got to help out other people with minimal experience as well.

 

SWEET SUCCESS!!! Man, thank you so much for doing this write-up. Installed in a day. I have very little electrical abilities aside from what little I've been able to pick up from others so I thank you so much for doing this write-up. A+

This was my first alarm install and I'm sure for those who have done plenty that it's a breeze but I was nervous and not too confident in what I was doing but you couldn't have made it any easier.

I do have one question - from the way the mechanism inside the 'brains' of the unit sounds (possibly for the shock and/or tilt sensor), it seems as though the main unit needs to be installed upside down. I'm sure I've missed it but I couldn't find the answer anywhere. Do you know for certain?

 

^ never heard that... which system do you have?

 

Ah......nevermind - my bad. It was actually the little fuse that's taped inside the console rattling around. An aftermarket alarm that I pulled from one of my previous cars had a ball for a shock / tilt sensor inside the main body of the alarm and I assumed that's what the noise was - and figured that the alarm had to be installed a certain way since it was only making the noise when held in certain positions.

So, I think I'll be adding the tilt sensor to my setup.....

 

um that little fuse is for your parking lights, wether you have/use negative or positve parking light wire... you may want to put that in lol

 

Glad I could help man. I don't believe the unit has to be mounted any certain way, I've had mine both right side up and up side down. If you need any help with anything feel free to PM me.

 

doesnt matter upside down or inside out lol. if you think about it that be a REAL pain in the *** if we had to install them flat... we hide our alarm brains behind anything we can to keep them inaccesible by tamperers(?). and if we were limited to laying them flat we would have to put them on the floor of the car lol.

 

Upon first install I kept blowing the 7.5amp Room fuse. I found that I had to disconnect the wiring behind the door panel to the small circuit board attached to the back of the lock that's located at the inside door handle. I haven't been able to determine why power was being sent here but I will report back with my findings in case it's helpful to anybody else.