fc drift/dd mods?
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: murfreesboro tn
weld up the diff and buy some used coilovers.
There's an identical set of jic sp's in the f/s section now going for $500.
I paid $550 for mine and they were worth every penny in a daily drifter. Smooth and firm. Not bone-jarring and bouncy.
You should also invest in camber adjustment. INDIVIDUAL LINKS in the rear along with a sublink. RUN all 3 adjusters. You can only get so much camber out with the single arm before stuff starts binding up back there. Only applies to super-low cars.
Coils and diff.
Seriously.
Also invest in solid diff mounts, pinion snubber (aka bump stop at the front of the diff), and dtss elims later down the line. They aren't necessary items but you'll want them later.
You can also play around with sway bar removal. IMO, the rear bar makes the *** end of the car too stiff and it feels snappy. Without it, the back end comes out smoothly and predictably. If you dont like it, you can always put them back on.
Cooling.
Anything you can do to get air flowing over your oil cooler and rad as well as getting hot air out of the engine bay is a must. Unless you are race style drifting (high speed, shallow angle), it's going to get hot under the bonnet quick.
There's an identical set of jic sp's in the f/s section now going for $500.
I paid $550 for mine and they were worth every penny in a daily drifter. Smooth and firm. Not bone-jarring and bouncy.
You should also invest in camber adjustment. INDIVIDUAL LINKS in the rear along with a sublink. RUN all 3 adjusters. You can only get so much camber out with the single arm before stuff starts binding up back there. Only applies to super-low cars.
Coils and diff.
Seriously.
Also invest in solid diff mounts, pinion snubber (aka bump stop at the front of the diff), and dtss elims later down the line. They aren't necessary items but you'll want them later.
You can also play around with sway bar removal. IMO, the rear bar makes the *** end of the car too stiff and it feels snappy. Without it, the back end comes out smoothly and predictably. If you dont like it, you can always put them back on.
Cooling.
Anything you can do to get air flowing over your oil cooler and rad as well as getting hot air out of the engine bay is a must. Unless you are race style drifting (high speed, shallow angle), it's going to get hot under the bonnet quick.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: murfreesboro tn
weld up the diff and buy some used coilovers.
There's an identical set of jic sp's in the f/s section now going for $500.
I paid $550 for mine and they were worth every penny in a daily drifter. Smooth and firm. Not bone-jarring and bouncy.
You should also invest in camber adjustment. INDIVIDUAL LINKS in the rear along with a sublink. RUN all 3 adjusters. You can only get so much camber out with the single arm before stuff starts binding up back there. Only applies to super-low cars.
Coils and diff.
Seriously.
Also invest in solid diff mounts, pinion snubber (aka bump stop at the front of the diff), and dtss elims later down the line. They aren't necessary items but you'll want them later.
You can also play around with sway bar removal. IMO, the rear bar makes the *** end of the car too stiff and it feels snappy. Without it, the back end comes out smoothly and predictably. If you dont like it, you can always put them back on.
Cooling.
Anything you can do to get air flowing over your oil cooler and rad as well as getting hot air out of the engine bay is a must. Unless you are race style drifting (high speed, shallow angle), it's going to get hot under the bonnet quick.
There's an identical set of jic sp's in the f/s section now going for $500.
I paid $550 for mine and they were worth every penny in a daily drifter. Smooth and firm. Not bone-jarring and bouncy.
You should also invest in camber adjustment. INDIVIDUAL LINKS in the rear along with a sublink. RUN all 3 adjusters. You can only get so much camber out with the single arm before stuff starts binding up back there. Only applies to super-low cars.
Coils and diff.
Seriously.
Also invest in solid diff mounts, pinion snubber (aka bump stop at the front of the diff), and dtss elims later down the line. They aren't necessary items but you'll want them later.
You can also play around with sway bar removal. IMO, the rear bar makes the *** end of the car too stiff and it feels snappy. Without it, the back end comes out smoothly and predictably. If you dont like it, you can always put them back on.
Cooling.
Anything you can do to get air flowing over your oil cooler and rad as well as getting hot air out of the engine bay is a must. Unless you are race style drifting (high speed, shallow angle), it's going to get hot under the bonnet quick.
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demetlaw
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