FC Coolant Reservoir
#1
FC Coolant Reservoir
Hey guys looking into buying a radiator panel which will cover the front area where the relays and coolant bottle are. I have looked into a few. I am very interested in the Signal Auto option. Mostly doing this for appearance however I am also planning on porting air for my intake. (This would also house my relays for my headlights and foglights very nicely). Currently I have a fully stock 86 GXL with the coolant bottle. I wouldn't second guess its need until I noticed both signal auto and corksport offer a "no coolant bottle" option. I am basically curious as to if I were to remove this bottle what my consequences would be. Nothing through a few sites has been conclusive. All seemed opinion based. I daily drive the car and don't race. The most abuse my car sees is the occasional burner or a little spirited backroad driving. I would like to remove the reservoir but I look to you guys because in the past I have gotten nothing but help. Thanks in advance! I should also mention this year I plan on picking up a Koyorad radiator sometime middle to the end of summer.
#2
Ban Peak
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Hey guys looking into buying a radiator panel which will cover the front area where the relays and coolant bottle are. I have looked into a few. I am very interested in the Signal Auto option. Mostly doing this for appearance however I am also planning on porting air for my intake. (This would also house my relays for my headlights and foglights very nicely). Currently I have a fully stock 86 GXL with the coolant bottle. I wouldn't second guess its need until I noticed both signal auto and corksport offer a "no coolant bottle" option. I am basically curious as to if I were to remove this bottle what my consequences would be. Nothing through a few sites has been conclusive. All seemed opinion based. I daily drive the car and don't race. The most abuse my car sees is the occasional burner or a little spirited backroad driving. I would like to remove the reservoir but I look to you guys because in the past I have gotten nothing but help. Thanks in advance! I should also mention this year I plan on picking up a Koyorad radiator sometime middle to the end of summer.
#3
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They show a No bottle option as the bottle is actually on the front driver's or passenger fender,Instead if the front radiator mount option.(mine was just behind the leading coil and the fuse block)
You CAN'T Run NO Bottle.
If you do every time that you engine heats up and dispurses coolant because Coolant expands and exits the Cooling system and has to go Somewhere( the Bottle) so it would be LOST.
So losing coolant every time your engine heats will Kill your engine real quick.
The system basically operates like this: engine heats up,cap feels that,lets off coolant as coolant expands,goes into bottle.Engine cools down,cap is still open and the Engine retracts the Coolant as it cools.Goes back into the System.When it is equal in temp and pressure it shuts.
If the bottle has no coolant then it sucks air.(hence your Low coolant sensor seeing that and BUZZ)
Edit..Beat by a guy tossing a Molotov Cocktail.
You CAN'T Run NO Bottle.
If you do every time that you engine heats up and dispurses coolant because Coolant expands and exits the Cooling system and has to go Somewhere( the Bottle) so it would be LOST.
So losing coolant every time your engine heats will Kill your engine real quick.
The system basically operates like this: engine heats up,cap feels that,lets off coolant as coolant expands,goes into bottle.Engine cools down,cap is still open and the Engine retracts the Coolant as it cools.Goes back into the System.When it is equal in temp and pressure it shuts.
If the bottle has no coolant then it sucks air.(hence your Low coolant sensor seeing that and BUZZ)
Edit..Beat by a guy tossing a Molotov Cocktail.
#5
Cake or Death?
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The basic mechanics of the bottle are very simple.
The intake/connection to the rad is at the bottom, it must always be submerged.
The filler and overflow are at the top.
You can mount the bottle anyplace it'll fit.
The system is not gravity dependent, so the bottle could be higher than the rad and it'd still work.
Misterstyx's description of how it works is generally correct but omits a few details.
Under normal running conditions (even when running slightly hotter than normal), there isn't enough pressure to overcome the radiator cap and no coolant escapes.
If your engine ran continuously you'd have no need of a recovery system.
However, when you shut the engine down all the residual heat does pressurize the coolant to the point that it opens the cap and flows to the tank. This rapid pressure release cools the coolant and usually you only see a few ounces of water transfer to the tank.
The coolant transfer now creates a low pressure situation in the rad and as the coolant cools and contracts the resultant vacuum draws water from the tank back into the rad.
This is why it doesn't matter where the tank is...it's pressure and vacuum that power the exchange.
It's also why the tube from the rad must always be immersed...it doesn't matter as the coolant is being forced INTO the tank but once a vacuum gets established and the rad is going to pull from the tank, it'd better be pulling water and not air.
#6
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A old mechanic friend of my Fathers's explained it as a "give and take" system,which really when you think about is about as good a description as it can be.
Once you know the operation of the system you can see why it was described that way.
Once you know the operation of the system you can see why it was described that way.
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#9
Life Project.
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check this out. 86-91 Mazda RX7 FC Radiator Cooling Panel V1.0 S2CarbonWorks They have different versions too.
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