uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Well, two weeks after telling the dealership that is holding my could-be FC hostage that I won't pay $3,999 for an SE and to call me before they wholesale it, they call back.

They dropped the price to $2,499 19 days before I close on my new house. I was really hoping they would drop it more, and it would happen after I secured my mortgage and knew I could spend the money. <sigh> Oh well, maybe it'll still be there later, lol.

I managed to take a couple more pictures though, attached is the only place that she's rusting, although it looks like it could be a pain to fix and the damage might be more extensive under the paint.

Clicky for pic.

oakback

What's so special about this car? Can't you find one for a lot cheaper than that?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Nothings really that special, it's just that Minnesota seems short on FCs right now and my Accord is inching towards the grave every time I start it. I'm actually hoping a nice forum member that doesn't live too far off sells theirs sometime in the next 2 months.

Ocelot

2 months should be plenty of time to find a better FC for what they are trying to get out of that one. Try autotrader and the newspaper, as well as the regional forums and for sale sections.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

You should buy mine..... which is EXACTLY like it, except with a rebuilt motor and freshly rebuilt tranny.
Heck I only want $1800 for it......

Too bad im in oregon....

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

hey I got one $800 good shape!

Forcus

2499? I might be selling my clean, 51k mile 90 TII in a couple months... few dents, no rust, around 4k.. that would be a much better deal

Ryde _Or_Die

Take this guy up on this. Call dibs, put a deposit down, something. You will be much happier. That is all.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

That's pretty bad ***. *dibs* if I don't have one by then, lol. That brings me to a good question. I know that TIIs are supposed to have a shorter life-span then a NA, but do you think that is mostly related to the beating that they take compared to a NA. I'm not crazy when I drive, and baby all of my cars, that's why my Accord has lasted up to the 199k mark with few problems.

Kenteth

phone dials... sexzy

Kenteth

what the... is that a rotary emblem on that dunlop? LOL

Psygnosis7

you're looking at that way to hard

PureSephiroth

no. rotaries like getting the hell beat out of them. They run better when you treat the car like garbage.

pip

Theres a reason the SE has earned the nickname Sucky Edition. There is absolutly nothing special about that car and I wouldnt pay over $1200 for it. $1800 for the se with the rebuilt trans and motor is a good deal just get a cheap plane ticket and take a road trip

Forcus

Just from looking at that SE, it appears the wheelwells at the very least have been bondo'd up and a crappy respray done. I may be wrong but it appears to be a quickie resell.

Mine may or may not be for sale in a month or so, right now I am doing reliability mods (new hoses, belts, gaskets, having the injectors cleaned, gutting the cats and removing the emissions, etc) so it's not exactly roadworthy at this point. But it will be. It was more of an example of what you can get. Locally, someone is selling an S5 TII for even less, 3500 I think.. but I think its already gone. I just think 2500 is a raw deal when you could probably get a TII relatively quickly for just a grand more (if that's what you really want).

Generally, NA's are slow but reliable. TII's are quick but can be maintenance intensive. I think most of the problems with TII's are related to

1) owner incompetence / misunderstanding
2) previous owner lack of maintenance / competence / misunderstanding
3) design flaws (flakey wiring harness, etc)
4) rotary design.

If you are smart, and make sure the car is 100% before you mod, then do reliability mods FIRST. Example, don't do a cold air intake, or exhaust first. Provided the car is 100% (injectors newly cleaned, new or nearly new plug wires, nothing leaking or broken, new or newer hoses, belts, etc), the first thing you should do is ensure you have adequate fuel and timing control for the mods you will be doing. This, with the stock ECU, generally at LEAST means a chip and usually means a standalone or piggyback. Professional tuning, or a complete understanding of the system of choice, is crucial to reliability.

SO instead of exhaust first, it should be standalone or piggyback. Above I cited rotary design - rotaries are NOT tolerant of detonation. Piston engines seem to be much more able to cope with prolonged detonation (I couldn't begin to give a primer on why). BUT the reason NA's do not seem to give up as much as TII's is the fact that an NA is simply under less stress and less chance of detonation, or chance of damage from detonation.

If you can handle the fact that a TII would probably cost more due to supporting mods, then it doesn't have to be unreliable. I would wager that most of the blown up engines on here are from improper tuning. Or just pushing the limits.

If you just want a reliable DD, a really clean stock S4 NA would be just fine - and cheaper. But if you want to go for something a little quicker, a little faster, a little better handling..

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

As much as I would like to, I dont' really plan on doing any performance mods. I was going to use this car as a daily driver and plan on having it for awhile. I really just want an RX7 because rotory engines tickle me.

I wouldn't be opposed to a turbo though, just have to neglect telling the wife about it.

Ok, now if you took two RX7s.... one turbo, one NA, both had been well maintained and not beat on too much, both have the same milage (and no mods), would the NA still out-last the turbo, or would the both stay about the same throughout their life if the maintanence continued and they were treated well?

Forcus

Well, I hear about more high mileage, original block NA's than turbos. One of my first cars was an 83 GS with over 190k miles on the original motor, it ran good (if not quickly). I have an 83 GS now with 163k miles on what appears to be the original motor and it runs good as well. There have been a few people with over 200k miles on their NA's. But I only have heard of one person having substantial miles on their TII.

CompuBob

I'm getting a TII on the road for less than 2k Canadian!
you can find a better deal.

I almost bought a MINT S5 TII for next to nothing with a brand new engine and more mods than ever!.. but it dident work out on my end with money at that time.. soemthing better will come along!