farewell all... nice being a rotary owner....
01-14-03, 09:54 PM
#1
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farewell all... nice being a rotary owner....
after 45hrs of work and 4k later im getting rid of the rx7.... was a great car and i loved it.... but i just replaced the motor with a s4 13b with a LARGE streetport and it had GSLSE rotors in it... motor seized up dont know why the front torrington bearings were toasted i replaced those.. motor still wont start so its gonna go. so it was nice being here... ill still be around but not as much seeing as i dont have an rx7 i will feel like i dont belong..... it was great being part of the rotary experience i will be back for more.... i'm sorry im leaving so easy you guys... this is by far the best board i have been on..... but im 16 have part time job and going to school.... i just cant do it... if anyone wants to by my car shoot me a decent price i got over 7k in it... you can get the motor running using the two motors i will include with the car all you will need is a gasket set...
01-14-03, 09:59 PM
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Ouch. Sad to see you give up 
I often thought of giving up on mine and selling it, but I stuck it out and finally its back together and running [almost] properly, minus a few idle issues, and I am so happy that I didn't get rid of it.
I don't understand why you put an N/A engine in your TII?
Anyway, Ill give you $500 for it and I'll tow it away myself if you wanna get rid of it for sure!
I'm sure my offer will be beat rather quickly, but its there.
I often thought of giving up on mine and selling it, but I stuck it out and finally its back together and running [almost] properly, minus a few idle issues, and I am so happy that I didn't get rid of it.
I don't understand why you put an N/A engine in your TII?
Anyway, Ill give you $500 for it and I'll tow it away myself if you wanna get rid of it for sure!
I'm sure my offer will be beat rather quickly, but its there.
01-14-03, 10:10 PM
#5
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its not an n/a motor its a s4t2 block with a LARGE *** streetport with gsl se rotors for a good low end... motor had a nice *** braping at 1200rpms..... i know this motor has a big power potential.... im looking to get some decent money for it... i mean come on i got recaro a8 seats in it!!!! thats 1200 rite there.... a s4 motor that costed me over 2k ... and a s5 motor included that just needs a freshen up rebuild... hks fcon and hks fuel cut defender **** that was 800 rite there....body could be in better shape but i have a fiberglass body repair hook up and can get the body repaired for and painted red agian almost 2k in body work need but i can get it done for 600 dallors... if you keep in touch with me...
01-14-03, 10:19 PM
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Originally posted by dr0x
Dude... get that ****** fixed. The motor probably needs to be taken apart, but it wont cost as much as a full rebuild. Why lose all that money?
Dude... get that ****** fixed. The motor probably needs to be taken apart, but it wont cost as much as a full rebuild. Why lose all that money?
Is corona anywhere near LA? If so there should be some good rotary shops nearby. Just have someone look at it, shouldn't cost much.
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01-14-03, 10:23 PM
#8
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I know man. you went this far fixing up your car and just give up on it like that. I know how you feel when **** dont work the way you want it. SO like DROX sais GET THAT F****R FIXED. You said you bought the motor from a builder?.. Why dont you just send it to him and have him rebuild it again?!..
01-14-03, 10:26 PM
#9
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You want to sell me your motor 
, sorry things didn't work out, but if the front torring bearing goes and you drive the car, that will cause rotor, slap, ruin the side seals and the side housings...if you do it your self only about a 800 dollar job if you get some nice side housing, **** just go for a bridge port this time....
, sorry things didn't work out, but if the front torring bearing goes and you drive the car, that will cause rotor, slap, ruin the side seals and the side housings...if you do it your self only about a 800 dollar job if you get some nice side housing, **** just go for a bridge port this time....
01-14-03, 10:49 PM
#11
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Rotor slap??? Forgive me for wondering what the **** you're smoking...
The rotors are held perfectly straight by the main bearings. All the needle bearings do is keep the end play from being out of whack. End play will cause the e-shaft to collide with the stationary gears on the rear of the motor as the e-shaft slides within the main journal bearings.
You might need a new rear main bearing and stationary gear. That is easy enough to determine with the engine in the car. Even without oil pressure you should be able to get her to fire up with the previously mentioned problems. (from the other thread) Do a compression check on it. Rebuilds don't like starting. You should check the oil at the drain plug for chips of metal. You might have chewed up the end of the e-shaft, but the oil is flowing the better direction of into the pan at that end so the rest of the bearings should be safe. Even at 16 you should be able to do this work yourself with a hand from some buddies.
Its not like none of us will help you throught this.... You have a lot into that car to just take a slaughter in getting rid of it now. Fix that motor!
The rotors are held perfectly straight by the main bearings. All the needle bearings do is keep the end play from being out of whack. End play will cause the e-shaft to collide with the stationary gears on the rear of the motor as the e-shaft slides within the main journal bearings.
You might need a new rear main bearing and stationary gear. That is easy enough to determine with the engine in the car. Even without oil pressure you should be able to get her to fire up with the previously mentioned problems. (from the other thread) Do a compression check on it. Rebuilds don't like starting. You should check the oil at the drain plug for chips of metal. You might have chewed up the end of the e-shaft, but the oil is flowing the better direction of into the pan at that end so the rest of the bearings should be safe. Even at 16 you should be able to do this work yourself with a hand from some buddies.
Its not like none of us will help you throught this.... You have a lot into that car to just take a slaughter in getting rid of it now. Fix that motor!
Last edited by Jimmy325i; 01-14-03 at 10:56 PM.
01-15-03, 12:46 AM
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okay if you actualy thought about what you where Saying Jimmy325i, it would make sense, if the torring bearing (aka needle bearing) drops the n the E-shaft moves foward, about .0020 of an inch this is enough to push the rotors on hte sidehousings causing the sides seals to deteroirate, I mean NZ Conv may correct me, but I am 98% sure I am right, having talked to my own rotary mechanic about this....droping the needle bearing will do much more harm than you think..............
01-15-03, 01:14 AM
#17
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The e-shaft has no capability of pusing the rotor into anything. There is sufficient end play required by the fact that there are gears which need some clearance on the rotors that the e-shaft will not under this circumstance pull, push, or do anything else to the rotors outside of its normal function of holding their orbit. (hows that for a long *** sentance)
The front needle bearing assembly (torrington is a brand name btw) being pressed into its race will only force the back side of the e-shaft harder into the SECOND set of needle bearings which allow for the proper internal allignment of the e-shaft.
However, if the bearing spacer were to become dislodged and there was now excessive endplay, the e-shaft would then be able to move backwards towards the rear stationary gear causing friction on the end of the rotor journal. Again, there is no way the e-shaft will cause side tension on the rotor causing contact with the sidehousings.
Sounds like you've never seen the inside of a rotary to me....
Where are you getting this .0020" number from? Those spacers are probably closer to .120 thick. The problem with not having the needle bearings in correctly, is that the e-shaft is not properly supported against endplay, and the bearings chew the hell out of their race when clamped down on the spacer when the engine is started.
I think you need to talk to a different rotary mechanic. Or, possibly that you misunderstood what he said.
The front needle bearing assembly (torrington is a brand name btw) being pressed into its race will only force the back side of the e-shaft harder into the SECOND set of needle bearings which allow for the proper internal allignment of the e-shaft.
However, if the bearing spacer were to become dislodged and there was now excessive endplay, the e-shaft would then be able to move backwards towards the rear stationary gear causing friction on the end of the rotor journal. Again, there is no way the e-shaft will cause side tension on the rotor causing contact with the sidehousings.
Sounds like you've never seen the inside of a rotary to me....
Where are you getting this .0020" number from? Those spacers are probably closer to .120 thick. The problem with not having the needle bearings in correctly, is that the e-shaft is not properly supported against endplay, and the bearings chew the hell out of their race when clamped down on the spacer when the engine is started.
I think you need to talk to a different rotary mechanic. Or, possibly that you misunderstood what he said.
01-15-03, 07:48 AM
#20
Maybe someone who lives near him could give him a hand fixing it. I'm sure there are plenty of people near by who have experience pulling and rebuilding a rotary engine! Maybe all he needs is another set of hands and an experienced eye - get it running again! It would be a shame to have to give up now and loose money.
01-15-03, 10:05 AM
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the piont .0020 is the end float, but you if think that this won't cause damage to a side housing then you have never seen inside one that has droped a needle bearing....
01-15-03, 10:44 AM
#23
Originally posted by Nick86
Maybe someone who lives near him could give him a hand fixing it. I'm sure there are plenty of people near by who have experience pulling and rebuilding a rotary engine! Maybe all he needs is another set of hands and an experienced eye - get it running again! It would be a shame to have to give up now and loose money.
Maybe someone who lives near him could give him a hand fixing it. I'm sure there are plenty of people near by who have experience pulling and rebuilding a rotary engine! Maybe all he needs is another set of hands and an experienced eye - get it running again! It would be a shame to have to give up now and loose money.
Must be a few 7 gurus in Cali to at least take a look at his car...
Don't give up yet!!
01-15-03, 10:54 AM
#24
dont give up man, my t2 is a piece of ****. hasnt gone over 3800rpms in a looong time, but i'm keeping it cause i like it and i like how i can come on here and get help with it and ****.
i garauntee there is someone in cali on this forum that will drive down to you f'n house just to help a brotha out.
no other forum will provide you with the help and support that we provice.
i garauntee there is someone in cali on this forum that will drive down to you f'n house just to help a brotha out.
no other forum will provide you with the help and support that we provice.
01-15-03, 10:57 AM
#25
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well, i was talking to a few people the guy who sold me the motor said there prolly isnt enuff time on the motor to have to buy alot of stuff to rebuild it and he thinks that im pretty knowledgable if i removed all my emssions and did all those mods myself to take a apart a rotary engine .... if things go good in the next couple of days i might pull the motor and take it apart and use the parts from my s5 motor to rebuild it. Or buy the parts from mazdatrix cuz they only take 1 day to get here!