Fan CFM's
Fan CFM's
Does anyone know what the CFM is for the stock fan of an 88 T2? I autocross mine, and it gets very hot. So i want to try to upgrade to a larger electric fan to try to fight my heat problems. Any suggestions?
It is unlikely anyone outside of Mazda has actually measured the flow of the fan. It's also unlikely you'll find an electric fan that fits on the radiator and outflows the stock fan.
Are you absolutly sure the cooling system is in 100% perfect condition?
Are you absolutly sure the cooling system is in 100% perfect condition?
I'd be looking at fixing the cooling system first before changing fans.
Jason has it right when he says:
Jason has it right when he says:
It's also unlikely you'll find an electric fan that fits on the radiator and outflows the stock fan.
Well my cooling system works fine, but i need to find a place to relocate my intake, because my intake temps sky-rocket during my runs at the autox's. I need to get it away from the engine heat, but i also don't want to risk sucking in water on rainy days. Do either of you have any ideas?
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Originally Posted by Slo Motorsports
I autocross mine, and it gets very hot. So i want to try to upgrade to a larger electric fan to try to fight my heat problems.
Well my cooling system works fine...
...but i need to find a place to relocate my intake, because my intake temps sky-rocket during my runs at the autox's.
I need to get it away from the engine heat, but i also don't want to risk sucking in water on rainy days. Do either of you have any ideas?
Originally Posted by prjct87rx7
i have found one that outflows the stocker and fits perfectly with minor trimming.
93Lincoln mark 8 electric fan 4,000 cfm
93Lincoln mark 8 electric fan 4,000 cfm
The 93 Lincoln mark 8 electric fan might be rated 4,000 cfm. You don't have to measure it.
But yeah, in general I wouldn't go efan. Even 4,000 cfm might not be higher than stock. I had a 2800cfm electric before and it was pretty weak compared to stock. And anyway at high speeds your fan isn't doing the cooling.
You don't need heat wrap to block off your intake, anything will do. What's more important is to have a good seal that keeps away air from the engine bay. Insulating that barrier against conduction through it is of secondary importance. (That's a semester of Heat Transfer for ya).
Don't forget the OEM thermostat if you don't have one. It will make a world of difference.
If you upgraded your horsepower you may need a bigger radiator.
But yeah, in general I wouldn't go efan. Even 4,000 cfm might not be higher than stock. I had a 2800cfm electric before and it was pretty weak compared to stock. And anyway at high speeds your fan isn't doing the cooling.
You don't need heat wrap to block off your intake, anything will do. What's more important is to have a good seal that keeps away air from the engine bay. Insulating that barrier against conduction through it is of secondary importance. (That's a semester of Heat Transfer for ya).
Don't forget the OEM thermostat if you don't have one. It will make a world of difference.
If you upgraded your horsepower you may need a bigger radiator.
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
It is unlikely anyone outside of Mazda has actually measured the flow of the fan. It's also unlikely you'll find an electric fan that fits on the radiator and outflows the stock fan.
You like to bash us pro-electric fan folks, but you have no idea what the stock fan flows...
-Ted
Here we go again is right...
For the millionth time, I'm not bashing e-fans. I've used them successfully several times and I have no problem with them. I'm just sick of all the BS that goes with them, including the idea that they'll cool better.
For the millionth time, I'm not bashing e-fans. I've used them successfully several times and I have no problem with them. I'm just sick of all the BS that goes with them, including the idea that they'll cool better.
A better fan will not make your car cool any better. If your cooling system is in good shape adequate airflow is all you need.
But yes, the Lincoln Mark VIII fan has tremendous capacity. If I drop a receipt anywhere near the front of my Mark VIII, it will turn up stuck against my condensor. Been there, done that.
But yes, the Lincoln Mark VIII fan has tremendous capacity. If I drop a receipt anywhere near the front of my Mark VIII, it will turn up stuck against my condensor. Been there, done that.
my tarus fan is incredible...cools the car in under 2 min...back to op temp from say 75%.....stays FREAKING cold works better than the clutch fan that was in my car anyways...clutch is FANTASTIC though......just bulky.....
an efan is better than a locked clutch fan imo. I've boughten three fans now and everyone of them has the clutch locked. If any of you have a spare fan around thats not locked, let me know. belts go fast when the fan is locked. and the lack of an unbroken shroud makes it more dificult.
It is only my intake temps that i am worried about, and just cooling the engine bay down a bit. My engine doesn't have any over heating problems, but it is an old motor, so anything i can do to limit stress is important. I just pulled my Air pump, and all of my emissions stuff tonight, and i will tackle removing the a/c compressor and lines later next week. Gota be ready for the NHIS events on the 26th and 27th. Anybody else going?
cut holes in your hood. lol. plus hot intake temps dont bother your car much man. if you want cold air, cus a hole where your washer fluid used to go, and mask off everything else sothe filter takes in only the outside air fromthat hole you drilled where the tank went.
Originally Posted by SirCygnus
cut holes in your hood. lol.
plus hot intake temps dont bother your car much man.
HI!
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: tatooine
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Actually properly placed bonnet vents are the best way to remove underbonnet heat. Unfortunately not many seem to know how to position them so they work.
Yeah they do...
Yeah they do...
How should they be positioned?
Im having trouble keeping the car cool:
Do you have:
OEM thermostat? (of KNOWN condition)
Undertray?
A rad with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition)
Since your motor is old, you may want to look into zero pressure Evans NPG coolant. It will help reduce hot spots, help to reduce cavitation at high rpms, and also, not be as hard on the coolant seals being ran at zero pressure.
If its intake temps you're worried about, build an intake box to shield the engine bay heat from the filter. Also heat wrapping your exhaust I have found makes a notable difference in engine bay temps (although I have never actually measued before and afters)
Do you have:
OEM thermostat? (of KNOWN condition)
Undertray?
A rad with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition)
Since your motor is old, you may want to look into zero pressure Evans NPG coolant. It will help reduce hot spots, help to reduce cavitation at high rpms, and also, not be as hard on the coolant seals being ran at zero pressure.
If its intake temps you're worried about, build an intake box to shield the engine bay heat from the filter. Also heat wrapping your exhaust I have found makes a notable difference in engine bay temps (although I have never actually measued before and afters)
Originally Posted by samperry007
How should they be positioned?




) And cover my entire AWR radiator. Also a tarus fan would work