Fairly easy wiring question
03-17-10, 12:12 AM
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Fairly easy wiring question
So the previous owner of my car was kind of an idiot and the wiring is a mess. Two years ago, I was pulling my engine, and the big wire going to the starter hit the frame. Big spark, then nothing.
Over the next two years, I do an awful lot to the car, including a rebuilt turbo swap, install a haltech, and relocate the battery. I am closing up on this project and finally got a battery into the car a few days ago for the first time.
Some testing shows that I seem to have parking lights, and maybe accessory voltage, but definitely no ignition voltage anywhere in the car. I'm wondering if this is a result of the battery relocation or because of me blowing something while pulling that engine.
All of the fuses in the underhood fuse box are fine.
I am missing 12 volts at
1) Both wires that originally went to the positive terminal of the battery
2) Both ends of the big black wire with the single black connector right under the fuse box. (I heard this one is the one that runs the ignition switch).
So, where's the break?
Over the next two years, I do an awful lot to the car, including a rebuilt turbo swap, install a haltech, and relocate the battery. I am closing up on this project and finally got a battery into the car a few days ago for the first time.
Some testing shows that I seem to have parking lights, and maybe accessory voltage, but definitely no ignition voltage anywhere in the car. I'm wondering if this is a result of the battery relocation or because of me blowing something while pulling that engine.
All of the fuses in the underhood fuse box are fine.
I am missing 12 volts at
1) Both wires that originally went to the positive terminal of the battery
2) Both ends of the big black wire with the single black connector right under the fuse box. (I heard this one is the one that runs the ignition switch).
So, where's the break?
03-17-10, 03:38 AM
#2
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The ignition switch gets fed by the black wire located just about six inches below the engine bay fuse box. It gets power from the MAIN FUSE of the engine bay fuse box.
The engine bay fuse box gets fed by the SMALLER cable of the TWO cables that attach to the batterys positive cables.
You relocated the battery and I don't know what you did to feed the engine bay fuse box power from the battery.
It's odd, because you say the side lights work. Well the side lights get power from the engine bay fuse box via the BTN fuse. BTN fuse feeds the battery bus on the INTERIOR fuse box. INTERIOR fuse box then feeds the light switch.
So it's kind of confusing. Probably has something to do with the relocation of the battery and the installation of the Haltech wiring.
Small wire on battery positive cable feeds engine bay fuse box...................Main fuse of engine bay fuse box feeds black wire that goes to the ignition switch.....turn the ignition switch to ON or better and power goes thru the switch to the interior fuse box and feeds two of the busses on the interior fuse box called IG1 and IG2 who have fuses that feed a lot of igniton related things.
Black wire that goes to the ignition switch also feeds the starter solenoid when the key is put to START. The power for START leaves the ignition switch on the wire that is BLACK/RED (series four turbo car) and goes thru the clutch interlock switch and from there to the starters small wire (a couple of connectors inbetween the interlock switch and the starter solenoid).
I'm not sure why you have side lights if the engine bay fuse box isn't getting fed by the smaller cable of the two cables that attach to the batt positive post. Unknown there.
The engine bay fuse box gets fed by the SMALLER cable of the TWO cables that attach to the batterys positive cables.
You relocated the battery and I don't know what you did to feed the engine bay fuse box power from the battery.
It's odd, because you say the side lights work. Well the side lights get power from the engine bay fuse box via the BTN fuse. BTN fuse feeds the battery bus on the INTERIOR fuse box. INTERIOR fuse box then feeds the light switch.
So it's kind of confusing. Probably has something to do with the relocation of the battery and the installation of the Haltech wiring.
Small wire on battery positive cable feeds engine bay fuse box...................Main fuse of engine bay fuse box feeds black wire that goes to the ignition switch.....turn the ignition switch to ON or better and power goes thru the switch to the interior fuse box and feeds two of the busses on the interior fuse box called IG1 and IG2 who have fuses that feed a lot of igniton related things.
Black wire that goes to the ignition switch also feeds the starter solenoid when the key is put to START. The power for START leaves the ignition switch on the wire that is BLACK/RED (series four turbo car) and goes thru the clutch interlock switch and from there to the starters small wire (a couple of connectors inbetween the interlock switch and the starter solenoid).
I'm not sure why you have side lights if the engine bay fuse box isn't getting fed by the smaller cable of the two cables that attach to the batt positive post. Unknown there.
03-17-10, 12:15 PM
#3
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Sorry, I should have told you about the battery relocation. Battery is in the rear bin, and grounded there. Positive runs through a c/b, up the driver's side, out the speedometer hole, and to the starter, and from there to the fusebox. The alternator connects to the fusebox on the same side. Headlights and motors work fine, parking lights and dash lights all work. Sunroof does not.
It's acting like the main fuse is blown. I have 12 volts in the fuse box, but not 12 volts on either side of that big black single wire connector 6 inches below the fuse box. I'm going to triple check the main fuse, but I'm pretty sure it's good...is the wire from the main fuse to the connector messed up? I tried to find where that wire ran into the fuse box, but it didn't quite look like it did.
It's acting like the main fuse is blown. I have 12 volts in the fuse box, but not 12 volts on either side of that big black single wire connector 6 inches below the fuse box. I'm going to triple check the main fuse, but I'm pretty sure it's good...is the wire from the main fuse to the connector messed up? I tried to find where that wire ran into the fuse box, but it didn't quite look like it did.
03-17-10, 04:41 PM
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About your battery ground. It really needs to not only gnd to the chassis, but really, really needs to also ground near the starter. Like the starter long bolt or one of the several bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.
The power that feeds the engine bay fuse box normally comes from the batterys positive post . That would be the smaller of the two cables that are attached to the stk RX positive battery cable. That smaller cable attached to the MIDDLE of the engine bay fuse box with a bolt. ON the front side of that engine bay fuse box.
On the REAR of the engine bay fuse box is a bolt holding a cable. That cable, if memory serves, feeds the black wire that goes to the ignition switch. There's that one connector inbetween that is six or so inches below the engine bay fuse box.
So power goes in the FRONT of the engine bay fuse box..........goes thru the main fuse......to feed the cable on the middle REAR of the engine bay fuse box (held in with a bolt).
That's the way I remember things being. I might go look at a car to make sure this is the way things are in real life.
BIG BLACK SINGLE WIRE CONNECTOR..........worry's me some the description. The wire isn't all that large nor the connector. Might be the two of us are looking at two seperate things????
Seems you might be doing things a bit different than stock as far as the engine bay fuse box goes. That box gets fed on the front side of the fuse box. IN the middle of the box and held on with a bolt. Then the output to the ignition key should be on the middle back side of the box. Means power has to go thru the MAIN fuse to get to the igniton key. IF power and output to the key are on the same side of the box and held with the same bolt.........then it isn't a fuse circuit anymore. Sorry, can't explain just why the ignition key isn't getting power for starting.
Power for side lights and headlight/retractors is not key related. That power is from the battery buses and not from the buses called IG1 and IG2 in the interior fuse box. Those busses don't get fed power unless the key has power and is turned to ON. I suspect the top is powered from IG1 or IG2 which are not getting power. So I understand why side lights work and sunroof does not work.
I guess I need to find a jpg on this site that shows the black wire and its connector below the engine bay fuse box. Although I suspect your probably looking at it.
JPG attached is the RX wiring diagram and I tried to show how pwr goes from batt to engine bay fuse box.........thru the 80a fuse in that box to the output side......then on to the igniton switch.
The power that feeds the engine bay fuse box normally comes from the batterys positive post . That would be the smaller of the two cables that are attached to the stk RX positive battery cable. That smaller cable attached to the MIDDLE of the engine bay fuse box with a bolt. ON the front side of that engine bay fuse box.
On the REAR of the engine bay fuse box is a bolt holding a cable. That cable, if memory serves, feeds the black wire that goes to the ignition switch. There's that one connector inbetween that is six or so inches below the engine bay fuse box.
So power goes in the FRONT of the engine bay fuse box..........goes thru the main fuse......to feed the cable on the middle REAR of the engine bay fuse box (held in with a bolt).
That's the way I remember things being. I might go look at a car to make sure this is the way things are in real life.
BIG BLACK SINGLE WIRE CONNECTOR..........worry's me some the description. The wire isn't all that large nor the connector. Might be the two of us are looking at two seperate things????
Seems you might be doing things a bit different than stock as far as the engine bay fuse box goes. That box gets fed on the front side of the fuse box. IN the middle of the box and held on with a bolt. Then the output to the ignition key should be on the middle back side of the box. Means power has to go thru the MAIN fuse to get to the igniton key. IF power and output to the key are on the same side of the box and held with the same bolt.........then it isn't a fuse circuit anymore. Sorry, can't explain just why the ignition key isn't getting power for starting.
Power for side lights and headlight/retractors is not key related. That power is from the battery buses and not from the buses called IG1 and IG2 in the interior fuse box. Those busses don't get fed power unless the key has power and is turned to ON. I suspect the top is powered from IG1 or IG2 which are not getting power. So I understand why side lights work and sunroof does not work.
I guess I need to find a jpg on this site that shows the black wire and its connector below the engine bay fuse box. Although I suspect your probably looking at it.
JPG attached is the RX wiring diagram and I tried to show how pwr goes from batt to engine bay fuse box.........thru the 80a fuse in that box to the output side......then on to the igniton switch.
03-17-10, 05:09 PM
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Looking at the jpg attached in the other post..............find the connector called FE-01. It's located b/t the engine bay fuse box and the ignition switch. THAT is the connector about six inches below the engine bay fuse box that feeds the ignition switch.
So power goes to the switch. Turn key to ON and power flows thru the switch and out the BLACK/WHITE wire and from that wire to the interior fuse box where it fees the fuses on a buss called IG1. Power also goes out the switch on a Black/Red wire to feed the buss that is called IG2 (probably where the radio fuses are and the moon roof power is).
Attached is a jpg I just stole off this site: It shows the black wire/ black connector that feeds the ignition switch. Looking down in the jpg.
FYI: One of the cars I bought had the engine bay fuse box installed 180* out. Made me wonder for a while why pulling the EGI fuses did not kill the engine. Duh.
So power goes to the switch. Turn key to ON and power flows thru the switch and out the BLACK/WHITE wire and from that wire to the interior fuse box where it fees the fuses on a buss called IG1. Power also goes out the switch on a Black/Red wire to feed the buss that is called IG2 (probably where the radio fuses are and the moon roof power is).
Attached is a jpg I just stole off this site: It shows the black wire/ black connector that feeds the ignition switch. Looking down in the jpg.
FYI: One of the cars I bought had the engine bay fuse box installed 180* out. Made me wonder for a while why pulling the EGI fuses did not kill the engine. Duh.
03-17-10, 05:24 PM
#6
The sunroof gets its power from G/O which comes out of a 15 amp fuse in the IG2 bus (fed by B/R).
In your(HAILERS) most recent jpeg towards the top of the fuse box diagram between the two 30 amp fuses are a series of four B/Y and four W/Y wires. Why is that? Do these wires connect to the circuit breakers (two of them), and if so where do they come from?
In your(HAILERS) most recent jpeg towards the top of the fuse box diagram between the two 30 amp fuses are a series of four B/Y and four W/Y wires. Why is that? Do these wires connect to the circuit breakers (two of them), and if so where do they come from?
03-17-10, 05:35 PM
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In your(HAILERS) most recent jpeg towards the top of the fuse box diagram between the two 30 amp fuses are a series of four B/Y and four W/Y wires. Why is that? Do these wires connect to the circuit breakers (two of them), and if so where do they come from?[/QUOTE]
I'm missing out on what your referring to. Can you point to them?????????
I'm missing out on what your referring to. Can you point to them?????????
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03-17-10, 07:31 PM
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Canned. I got CORNED!
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Hailers,
We are referencing the same connector. That connector is very large compared to what's around it! Take a look at where that's coming from though...looks like it's coming out of the harness, not out of the fuse box.
The original + cable just gets taped up, and should not have voltage, correct?
Right now, I have a ground from the battery to the rear storage bin, and an engine ground from the driver's side shock tower to the rotor housing...should I run an additional one to the starter?
We are referencing the same connector. That connector is very large compared to what's around it! Take a look at where that's coming from though...looks like it's coming out of the harness, not out of the fuse box.
The original + cable just gets taped up, and should not have voltage, correct?
Right now, I have a ground from the battery to the rear storage bin, and an engine ground from the driver's side shock tower to the rotor housing...should I run an additional one to the starter?
03-17-10, 08:24 PM
#11
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Kinda wish I had the wiring for the 86-87 as a jpg. It shows things better.
Ok. One side of that conenctor is part of the ENGINE harness, the other side is part of the FRONT harness.
The ENGINE harness consists of all the wires on the engine bay fuse box ....the battery cables and some other items.
So, the half of the connector that is part of the ENGINE harness. That wire also is spliced into the output cable on the alternator. Soooooooooooo what your looking at, is one wire that is spliced to the alternator cable being connected to the FRONT harness where it will now run to the ignition switch. Trust me on that. Don't worry 'bout how it comes out FROM the harness to the connector.
I'd a run the neg to the engine/transmission myself..........but if the starter whips over real good.....maybe leave it as is.
Ok. One side of that conenctor is part of the ENGINE harness, the other side is part of the FRONT harness.
The ENGINE harness consists of all the wires on the engine bay fuse box ....the battery cables and some other items.
So, the half of the connector that is part of the ENGINE harness. That wire also is spliced into the output cable on the alternator. Soooooooooooo what your looking at, is one wire that is spliced to the alternator cable being connected to the FRONT harness where it will now run to the ignition switch. Trust me on that. Don't worry 'bout how it comes out FROM the harness to the connector.
I'd a run the neg to the engine/transmission myself..........but if the starter whips over real good.....maybe leave it as is.
04-05-10, 11:01 PM
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Just thought I'd point out that I fixed my idiot mistake and everything works now 
When I installed the 1/0 cable from the starter to the fusebox forever ago, I forgot to hook up the wires that were there... one of which feeds 12v to the ignition switch!
Is there a factory ground on the starter? Black cable with yellow stripe, maybe?
When I installed the 1/0 cable from the starter to the fusebox forever ago, I forgot to hook up the wires that were there... one of which feeds 12v to the ignition switch!Is there a factory ground on the starter? Black cable with yellow stripe, maybe?
04-06-10, 06:00 AM
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The neg cable from the batt neg post goes to the long bolt that holds the starter on the transmission/engine but can go to any of the bolts that hold the engine /transmission together.
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