So I failed my emissions testing again first test went like this

-----------ASM2525 test-------------------CURB IDLE TEST
--------------limit-------reading------------ limit------------reading
HC ppm------66--------82-------------------200-------------438
CO%---------0.37-------0.14----------------1.00------------4.36
NO ppm------757---------26

idle rpm 747

second test I put in a new cat


-----------ASM2525 test-------------------CURB IDLE TEST
--------------limit-------reading------------ limit------------reading
HC ppm------66----------32-----------------200-------------184
CO%---------0.37-------0.02----------------1.00------------2.22
NO ppm------757---------8

idle rpm 751

Does anyone know why it would be reading high CO% at adle but almost nothing on the under load test? It seems like it's running rich especially at idle, could a dirty air filter be the problem?

 

oh btw it's a '88 NA FC

 

i've heard that if you remove the diaphram from the ACV it will cause it to constantly send air to the cat. i'm sure it would have an affect on the Port Air and AAV, maybe on the 6th ports for an S5. some one please chime in

 

that sucks

 

yeah joint the club but mine was soooooooo much worse then that

 

set the variable transistor as lean as possible while it will still run and go back there. Its by the map sensor, make sure you readjust your idle, then readjust the idle air mixture when you're all done according to what the fsm says to do.

 

did you retard the timing?? A new cat is goog but not if you are running high in the HC department, is the run back line connected? If not, well I will say mine passed without it, 87 n/a with 180k on it. Change oil and check out the FAQ
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/

 

glad we only have a visual here in PA...no testing done on cars 95 and older...

 

See if the ACV is working or not. Try this. Fully warm the car up and then idle it.

Pull the very large hose off the bottom of the ACV. While the engine idles, put your hand down there and feel the airflow coming out of that large metal nipple. Some small amount of bypass air is ok.

Now go to the left side of the engine and pull the BLUE electrical plug off the Relief solenoid. With that plug off feel again for air coming out of the large metal nipple at the bottom of the ACV. It should have increased dramatically.

If it did not, then you have a problem with the ACV itself or more probably with the two vacuum lines that control it.

IF the air did increase dramatically, then reinstall the BLUE connector and feel the air coming out the bottom of the ACV once more. It should have decreased from when the plug was off. Just a whisper of air being relieved. Now rev the engine with the throttle linkage. Around 3800 (memory here) the ACV should open and a large amount of air should come out the large nipple at the bottom of the ACV.

If all the above works............It ain't the ACV or airpump issue. A sneaky pete way of increasing your chances next time....remove both the elect solenoids on the ACV and delete the poppet valves from the solenoids then reinstall the solenoids without the poppet valves and springs. (note: when removing these solenoids, it's real easy to lose those small springs and poppets. Use care). What that will do is send a touch more airpump air to the exaust ports to help things out.

Your really not failing by too much. By the way. the two solenoids on the ACV have little to no effect on passing emissions, but the removal of the poppet valves in them will.

Make sure you have new plugs and use cheap regular gasoline.

Something like that.

 

Thanks, so far I leaned out the idle it was almost at full rich. I cleaned my K&N and I checked my plugs which looked pretty fouled from running rich they had that carbon coating which I ordered today. So I'm going to retest after putting the plugs in and I'll have an update. The idle is smoother now since I leaned it out and the exhaust when warmed has absolutly zero scent to it so I'm thinking I'll pass this time around *crosses fingers*

 

yep! stationary idle test is the hardest one

 

hehe, I'm in Florida. We don't have to pass any emissions tests. I have straight pipes and no emissions. I feel sorry for ya'll. Do ya'll have to do that yearly or something?

 

Take the car out for a GOOD Run.about Twenty minutes of Spirited driving.if you have a GOOD catalytic(one that is either new or a high flow)Getting it Hot is when it works the best.If you take the Car in "**** Cold" then your chances of Passing the ETest will go Down...You are In Toronto, Scully..take it to the 401 and Let er Rip!..then Go in and test!

 

Co numbers indicate combustion efficency,plugs yes,warm car yes,air control valve functional a must,change the oil belive me it helps,our engines don't alway perform at idle they tend to run hella rich,lean it out ohh hell yeah,the high co numbers are normal for engines with some miles on them,I've seen numbers drop a bunch on the five gas anilizer at work with an oil change,but i suspect air control valve,or low compression on one or two chambers of rotor,ie weak spring if it passes load test thank god we don't have that crap in cincy anymore check out that air controle valve and switching solnoids

 

Yep. Do ANYTHING except check out the ACV. It was put on to make the engine pretty, not for any other reason. humor with a touch of sarcasm (very little).

 

Nice..real nice..cause I have no emissions..ACV ha who needs that? Seriously check it out....lol

 

Update time I retested it today and passed with flying colours (on the idle anyways) new results

-----------ASM2525 test-------------------CURB IDLE TEST
--------------limit-------reading------------ limit------------reading
HC ppm------66----------58-----------------200-------------21
CO%---------0.37-------0.25----------------1.00------------0.03
NO ppm------757---------28

idle rpm 769

wierd that the ASM2525 numbers all went up and the idle numbers went to almost nothing, PASS hell yeah.