r0k0

i need to change my A/F i'm running way too rich

how do i do so... can i tune it basicly like right now.. also i will be installing soon a Gauge Pod and my AEM Wideband

my car is a 90 N/A S5 Engine... with Air Intake, Electric Fan, Full Exhaust with Silencer from stock headers...

Thanks

85rx-7gsl-se

iTrader: (2)

How do you plan to adjust it. I only know of two ways.
1.Lower the fuel pressure. This is the least preferred way. By lowering the pressure, you will get less fuel through the injector each time the ECU fires the injector. If you are rich over the entire rpm band, this may work. It you are not rich over the entire band, you could get lean spots in the map and pop the motor.
2.Go to a standalone ECU which is tuneable. The stock ECU map cannot be altered as far as I am aware from home. You can have the stock ECU modified by companies like R-TEK, but I am not sure if that would help in you case.
Hope this helps.

RETed

Wait, you don't have a wide-band installed yet, but you know you're running rich???


-Ted

r0k0

yeah my spark plugs had a coat of junk on them.. and i was puffing a think black cloud idle and pedaling it... so im 100% im way too rich than suposed to....

i have my widebanc right now its not hooked up because i dont have my gauge pod

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

get an afc.... bam. problem solved

r0k0

whats is an AFC...?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That is way too rich and means that there's something wrong. Throwing aftermarket parts at it to bandaid the situation is not going to help.

When was the last time the car had a full tuneup? Check the coolant temp sensor to make sure it's not reading cold and thus fooling the ECU into over fueling the engine. Also, have you ever had your injectors professionally cleaned?

r0k0

no i got the car in april.. the guy said it was a 92k km engine in it.. so i dont know.. im gonna run this car for the winter and put the turbo engine near the end of the winter so i want the engine to run to its full potentiel before the winter..

right now im getting soo beated by stock B16 civics... but when i got its i eated for breakfast lots of B18's. B20's.. now its a slow mo and a smoker..

oh and a Stock 86 S4 beated me by 1/4 lenght of his car



what i have aftermarket right now on it is Air Intake, Sneed's Speed Electric Fan, full 2 1/4" Exhaust from stock headers with a Vibrant Resonator and DC Sport Muffler, OBX R 10.3mm 3 core spark plug wires, NGK Spark Plug.. i think thats all i did on it..

but for tunning the A/F.. AFC where can i get it and do they ship to Canada..
also.. for the tune up is it expensive.. and do i just do that at Mazda..?

Thanks for the help guys

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You can perform the tuneup yourself if you have a bit of mechanical ability. Instructions are in the Haynes and Factory Service Manuals.

Don't bandaid it with aftermarket parts unless you know the car is running properly first (which it isn't right now).

r0k0

ok i'll look into the book see what i need..

but will it stop running rich after...?

also my air pump is pulling air out of nowhere since i removed the hose going from the pump to the cat

r0k0

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/emanageultimate.htm

is this what i need for changing the stuff into the car's computer ... ?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

So the car is not stock? Stuff has been hacked, unplugged, capped, etc.? That's probably a large part of the problem right there.

The eManage is sort of a half standalone. It will allow you to tune the stock ECU. As will an S-AFC. But neither is a cure to your problem, especially if you have no experience in tuning.

r0k0

what do you mean its not stock... has been cracked, hacked..?

when i redid the exhaust i removed the hose or ligne from the cat and just removed it from the air pump.. so its like no where right... its pulling air from behind the engine.. when i get it back from the body shop i'll post some pics of this...


but the half stand alone thing will let me tune my air fuel ratio...?

thanks Aaron..

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

By stock, he means that the engine configuration, and/or related components (emissions stuff, idle control stuff, etc...), has not been been modified. When you change things, like plugging your split air pipe, it makes a difference in the way your engine runs. The air pump pulls air from the intake box (or just from the engine bay on a modified intake system) and sends it to the Air Control Valve (ACV) which then passes fresh air to the main catalytic converter....

Look here:
Emissions and Other Good Stuff



This is what your messing with.

Read up on in the FAQ here and read a Haynes manual, before you attempt to "tune" your fuel maps. Your should be familiar with the basic info, like routine maintenance and tune ups before modifying your engine.
There could be a number of things that are causing this problem, and buying an EMS isn't going to fix a condition caused by bad injectors or a messed up engine.

Good luck with this one.

r0k0

ok for the air pump pulling air from the intake here is was i did.. look under the strut bar.. you see a Valve Cover Filter and the exhaust what it looks like..

when i get my car back i should run a ligne back from the split air to before my Resonator..? so i would help it run better..?


sorry for this blurry pic...

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

N/A's already run rich stock, looking at the pics of the engine bay makes it clear that this car has been modified. Its hard to know whats going on without more details, like the entire list of "mods".

Rich conditions are caused by too much fuel or not enough air in the combustion chamber. One thing I see is the tiny air filter element, that just looks super small to me but I am sure that isn't the entire cause for clouds of black smoke to be pouring from your tail pipes at idle.

You say the car ran good when you got it, and then after weeks of you trying to race civics it started to run like this? This doesn't sound good to me. It's not a race car it's a 20yr old sports car with 92,000 miles on it. I'm not surprised it running horribly now.

I'd start with what Aaron said, a tune up. Look over your fuel system, BUY a Haynes manual or better yet, download the FREE copy of the factory service manual on here( In the FAQ at the top of the forum) and do the basic maintenance that should be done with that many miles.

r0k0

no i raced it twice when i got it... and it kicked some ***... now with all the mods on .. a dodge sx2.0 its passing me.. not fast but just enough to **** off lol.... but the engine has 97 000 km not miles right now on it ( maybe 59 000Miles )... it ran good until i redid the exhaust and remove the split air hose... the other day was only the first and one time it poored clouds of black smoke...

for the split air should i put the hose back on before or after my Resonator..?

how can i cut back the fuel... i need the AFC for that..?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's like a broken record over here...THE S-AFC WILL NOT HELP YOU RIGHT NOW. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THE CAR IS WORKING PROPERLY FIRST.

Something is wrong with your car causing it to run this rich. Common causes are a poor tune, or a malfunctioning sensor (like the engine coolant temp sensor). Injectors will also begin to drip and spray poorly after time so an injector cleaning could also cure it.

Adding an S-AFC WILL NOT HELP IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM, especially since you don't know how to tune it.

You need to go over the entire engine and make sure that each vacuum line is connected to where it's supposed to go (for example, if the FPR line is connected to a nipple on the rear of the throttle body, the car will run crazy rich).

The split air pipe is only necessary if you have catalytic converters. The air pump sucks air from the front through a tube that connects to the airbox.

r0k0

since i removed my exhaust the car has been running shitty.. is it because my exhaust is too small...

i redid the whole exhaust in 2 1/4" maybe its giving too much back pressure... and removeing the split air did'nt help also..

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

2 1/4 should be fine.

When you removed the split air pipe and airpump hose, did you also cap the rear of the lower intake manifold?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

speaking of the split air pipe, i have an S5, no cat, so the split air pipe is hanging free. We pinched the end of it to somewhat seal it up. My question is that if I remove the pipe, would I have to use a blockoff of some sort? I asked my tuner this and he said that it wasn't necessary. Just wanted to get some opinions on this.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

^split air pipe block off plate^

r0k0

no... the air pump is still intacte.. and i removed the hose until i get near the engine and never seal the end it it...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Then you have a massive air leak. If you have removed the cats, you must plug the holes. The airpump sucks in metered air and if it's being dumped into the atmosphere you're going to run rich. You need to remove the ACV and block it off, and then modify the aux port system to make sure your aux ports are still working after messing with the pump.

r0k0

i have to removed the complet air pump.. cant i just connect the split air back into the exhaust and that would be fixe cheaply and better than now..?