2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

F#$ing warning lights!

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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Angry F#$ing warning lights!

Ahhh.. problem just started happening. Let's say I'm driving in 3rd and I press the clutch, if the revlimiter touches 1k in anyway I get all the warning lights with a little buzz. Like bzzz. Than the lights disappear above 1k. It's happening in all the gears and it's pissing me off. It will buzz if I hit 1k in anyway possible !! What do you guys think is going on?
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 01:12 PM
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What does your voltmeter show?


-Ted
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Bad alt or loose belt or alt connections
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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dang I just had the same prob a few months ago....if you need a new alt pm SilverRotor (sp?)
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 02:54 PM
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How do I check whats wrong?

If it happened to you what did you do to fix it?

These f'n cars just keep getting problems... ah!
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 03:00 PM
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what about taking the alt to a auto parts store, like shucks, and have them check it (not really sure what they do to check it though). Don't really know how to check the connections. I'm guessing just look if the wireing looks okay.

I had a bad alt so all I did was replace it.

Last edited by vrooom305; Feb 12, 2004 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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Originally posted by fg0d
How do I check whats wrong?

If it happened to you what did you do to fix it?

These f'n cars just keep getting problems... ah!
Have your alt tested.

Also, I think it's just your car.
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 03:11 PM
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you need a volt meter, you touch one end to the connection in the top right side of the alt, and the other to the - (negative terminal) on the batt. it should read above 12v because it requires more than 12 to actually charge the batt. mine read 14.3v on my n/a, not sure what the TII reads... but thats how you do it.
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 04:23 PM
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Cool, I'll buy a voltmeter from the store tommorow and test it out and see what happens.

Can squeaky belts be the culprit?
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 04:26 PM
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yeah like deltr0n`said, cars ideally charge at 14.4v. Test it at idle (<1k rpm) with and without loads on (lights, stereo, etc.) It will drop a bit with the latter but it shouldn't fall too much. Both should be above 12v.
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 09:03 PM
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alt doesn't cause the buzz though....
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 09:21 PM
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its like speed if you let the car go down to 1k the BOMB WILL GO OFF!!!!!!!!lol
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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the volt meter should read about 14v or so on a turbo car too. BTW, if you get a meter with multiple functions, a "multimeter" make sure you set it to read volts in DC (vDC). if you set it to read AC volts it will act funny. You mentioned a squeaky belt up there too. Change it. If it's squeaking it may be slipping. If it's the alternator belt thats slipping then pbviously you're going to get a voltage drop which might cause your idiot lights and stuff to go off.

Good luck!
Mark
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Old Feb 12, 2004 | 09:46 PM
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From: PartSource
yea same here... busted the alternator belt on my 7 the first day i had it going into 3rd.. took the p/w steering and fan belt off too

idiot lights came on and we were stuck in the middle of nowhere at 4 in the morning had to leave the car there find the nearest hotel (holiday in) find some girls and then later find the nearest canadian tire!
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