This is S5 TII

So, I disconnected my TPS last night because my idle was really sucking. BOOM!!! 750RPM solid I have no BAC either. I was mildly surprised. Second thing i noticed, the A/F gauge I have (not wideband) started hovering in the "ideal" range instead of rich during idle. Lastly on the road the A/F gauge would roam, indicating the ECU is in closed loop (i think that's what it's called I keep confusing the definitions of closed and open loop).

Either way, my car seems to be managing fuel more efficiently. I can rev all the way to redline and it richens up appropriately. I promptly ran out and put 4oz of oil into my gas tank along with a full tank of gas. I'm sure that's overkill but oh well, it's done.

The reason I'm posting is to find out if the TPS really does have to be connected for the MOP to work. Does anyone really know?

 

I hope that's premix oil

 

Sounds like a faulty TPS sensor...Since the MOP is controlled by the full range TPS, disconnecting it will probably default the ECU into some "safe" setting...

But this is NOT the proper way to fix your car. Test the TPS for smoothness (consistant resistance increase) throughout it's range...replace if necessary. Or, start by simply adjusting it correctly.

 

If you disconnect the TPS the ECU will default to narrow-range signal of 100% and a full-range signal of 20%. This will result in increased fuel consumption, as the injectors are not turned off when the throttles closed, and most likely insufficient oil injection at large throttle openings.

Your problems sound like they were caused by the TPS being either faulty or simply being set incorrectly. Don't leave the TPS unplugged. It's not good for the engione in the long run.

 

where do you guys find this information?

 

haha, they're just that good.

 

FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL!

 

i have it, but i can't find where it says MOP operation is influenced by the TPS. Can you offer me direction to where that is?

 

AFAIK that's not actually in the FSM but it makes perfect sense when you compare the electronic OMP to the older mechanical one, which was directly regulated by throttle position.

The info I posted on the ECU is from the Self-Diagnosis section of the EFI chapter.

 

hmmm, it sounds crazy, but i think i'll try this just to see what happens. i've had a feeling my TPS is shot, guess this could be one way to test it

 

just get it recalibrated at mazda factory for 45 bux for make your own test light or buy a voltage meter!! lol

 

i'm pretty sure the thing is shot. i've reset it a bunch of times and each time i check, it's back to being way out of whack

 

Here is link to a video of a really worn out TPS <Click Here>

 

excellent!!! thanks i'll try that test out tommorow

 

Too bad he is wrong...
when you floor the car, the plunger is fully released, and the resistance should be 5000 +/_ 1000 ohms. If it is zero resistance, it is broken.