rodney87

Sounds like your running to much un-burned gas through your exaust. That would cause the cat to get red hot and the muffler to blow.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

That looks so cool

cabonrx7

Yes i think you are right about the unburned gas, and the injector is stuck open thaks for advise i will be swiching the injectors today and a compresshion test will be done. The Ill let you know whats up.
Thanks

dw89s5

my 7 did same thing its an s5 bridge port straight piped it happened because i flooded it i had to move it and didnt let it warm up(it was going to be towed damn city)

just get a timing light fix the timing and of course get a new muffler it will be fine

cabonrx7

I checked the compression, and the results= 110 on the front and 0 on the rear, psi of coarse. The top enjectors arnt even engadeing to start the car it still starts with those huge vacume leaks wear the top ingector goes but dident test the bottom ones dident feel it was nessisary after the compression results.

WHAT DO I DO? REBUILD OR SWAP ANY SUGGESTIONS?

cabonrx7

And every one keeps tellin me these motars run blown up? weard if u ask me i dont think any motar will run with out commpreshion do you guys?

dw89s5

they do run blown just not well you will need a new motor either swap or rebuild
if u get it rebuilt make sure they kno what they are doing if u buy jdm swap it will probably need to be rebuilt anyway

NoDOHC

That depends on your willingness to accept 120-130 rwhp that your NA gives (rebuilt). If you are figuring on a turbo swap in the future (like almost everyone else), a cheap rebuild will suffice, buying a housing and 3 apex seals for the back rotor will not cost very much at all (~$100-$200) and you can probably reuse the old rear side seals and everything from the front rotor (in fact I would not even tear the front rotor apart.) Like I said, fixing it is cheap if all you want to do is get the car on the road for a while. (I am making this calculation based on you doing the labor yourself.

If you want the car to be a daily driver, you need to take the time and spend the money to replace all the seals, bearings and gaskets. A full rebuild will run you about $1000 if you do the labor yourself and who-knows-what if you get someone else to do it for you.

As to the engine running with no compression... That is not exactly what is happening, the front rotor has compression and the engine is running on it (hence the terrible throttle response, you have a 650 cc engine in your 1200 kg car.) The cat is glowing red because the rear rotor is blown and the computer doesn't know it and continues to pump fuel into it, this fuel does not explode in the chamber but is pumped into the exhaust. In the exhaust, the fuel meets the extremely hot gasses coming from the functional front rotor which ignites the fuel mixture and causes it to burn in the exhaust, heating up the catalytic converter.

My car will do the same thing against the rev limiter (unnburnt fuel is dumped into the exhaust because the ECU only cuts spark.

The muffler exploded because a well-mixed, unburnt fuel/air charge suddenly ignited when the EGT of the front rotor reached the ignition temperature, causing an explosion. The muffler is larger in diameter than the pipe, thus the increased pressure cause it to fail.

dw89s5

your rear rotor may not be blown the seal could be stuck since the car was not running when u got it
it could just be the spring is caked with carbon

NoDOHC

If you do a turbo II swap, you would also be wise to replace the rear differential and axle shafts with the appropriate TII components, I have a friend who refused to do so before he put 3 NA diffs through his car.

By the way, a piston engine will run without compression on several cylinders, its just that piston engines generally fail slowly or lock up do to bearing failure, rather than losing compression on individual cylinders.

If you want to drive your rotary like it is, you probably won't hurt it (any more than it already is), provided that you disconnect the injectors to the rear rotor (primary and secondary.)

I have a friend who put 2,000 miles on a one rotor RX7 (it run about like a late 80's K car.)

dw89s5

if it didnt run when u bought it i would assume u have another car if u do dont drive it till its fixed
my friend had an s4 running on the front rotor for about 2 months it works just not well
its not going to fix itself and it will only get worse

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

LOL, was that the same friend who broke 3 NA diff's?

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Don't you know? Teh seven never dies!

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

If it really has 0 on the rear then it is very unlikely it jsut has stuck seals. If it really is stuck, then its probably so stuck that there is nothing you can do. If you really want, you can try some ATF, but I highly doubt it will do anything.
If it has 0 PSI then it has blown apex seals. This means that the housing will likely be shot. It is probably a good idea to just go ahead and get a turbo engine, whether it be USDM or JDM. I personally would recommend that you get a USDM motor because JDMs can be very iffy. As a rule, they a junkyard motors so you have no idea how long it has sat. There is a good chance that even if it does have good compression, the soft seals (oil control seals, coolant seals) are probably not in the best shape, and quite possibly bad. As a rule JDM engines make very good cores for a rebuild but not necessarily good drop-in engines.
You could also just send it to kevin landers (rotaryresurrection) and get it Since you will likely need a new housings it will probably run you close to 2k but you will have a fresh engine. With a streetport it will make good power, but still won't be turbocharged. The choice is up to you.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

your **** is blown, if you do your own rebuild it will cost 500-1100 dollars depending on what is damaged in side. start looking at the junk yards for a spare motor. You will need it.