So I finally finished my project after 8 months. The car is going to paint next monday.

Only problem, it doesn't start anymore. I did a J-spec engine swap (S4 TII) in my S4 N/A. I cranked the engine, started right up to 3000rpm like my other one but with a big bang (no sweat), hit the gas to make it drop to idle....then it died. I thought, no problem, it happens when an engine has not ran in a long time. But now, it doesn't start anymore. I thought it was fludded...whcih I think it was but not sure...anyhow, I unfludded it. Pulled and dried the plugs, cranked the engine with no EGI fuse and plugs so that it would dry out.
Now, I try to start it agian, but it start...

Any idea?

Just to be sure, on the coils, they say L1 and L2 and on the other one its T1 and T2.

That means front rotor is 1 and rear rotor is 2. Right?

 

Oh, and I'm pretty sure its something stupid really...just cant find it...

Could my BAC valve be broken? I know it made a weird noise yesterday when I turned the key to ON.

Or my TPS...but I doubt it since the car started up fine.

Please help! I have been waiting for this moment for 8 months now

Thanks all!

 

Just got a flash....Since the fuel lines are reversed on a J-Spec engine, would, by anychance, the wires fo the plugs be reversed too?

Meaning, here, L1 and T1 is front rotor and L2 and T2 is rear rotor. But in japan its L1 and T1 rear rotor and so on??

That doesn't make any sense though...Or does it?

 

Have you checked the compression when you bought it? And where did you take it? I will do this swap at the end of summer.

 

Salut mec.

Oui j'ai une bonne compression. Pas de trouble la dessus.

 

How is your fuel pump wired up and what series is the Jspec?

Compression bon? Combien le compression numero per front, per rear? (rusty french I know )

 

Fuel pump is a walbro 255. Compression is +/- 8.0 in front rotor and +/- 7.5 on rear rotor.

The engine started just fine, but wont start anymore.

I think its fludded bad....real bad....I will need to remove all 4 plugs I think....

When I unfludded it, I removed only the bottom ones...That might be the problem.

 

Try un-flooding again, and squirt a little engine oil in the leading plug holes, crank a few times (with the EGI fuse out) re-squirt, crank, then try to fire it up again.

But the question about the fuel pump wiring....I want to know if you have the pump re-wired or if its hooked up to the factory N/A fuel pump resistor?

 

Its wired exactly the sameway as the stock on was. Is that a problem? Thats how walbro told me to do it.

 

It could be a problem with your AFM, because the fuel pump is switched on during cranking, but then otherwise needs a signal from the AFM to stay on.

Quelle sorte de ECU est-ce que c'est? C'es-tu encore Stock?

 

Not exactly a *problem* its just that I've seen the resistor go bad and it will allow the car to start, however seconds later it will shut it off. And since your S4 N/A would have come with one of these - it may be the problem.

Of course it may very well not be, but try to get it to fire again. If the resistor is the problem it will fire and run for 3-5 seconds and shut off.

 

I can just ue a voltmeter to see is the resistor pack works, right?

 

+1 on the AFM happened to me before

 

Don't worry about checking it. Get it to fire up first and take it from there.

 

Try heating the plugs up on the stove. Use a pair of pliers to hold em, and burn off everything until they don't smoke anymore. Use a rag or pair of gloves to install them(cause they're HOT), and crank it over. When my 7's get really flooded, thats the only way to get-em to bust off. Good luck!

 

I use a hair dryer.