JClem

I posted this thread a few days ago and didn't get any replies. I figure no one wanted to respond to another flooding issue but I really need some suggestions on this. After reading through the site I’m going to put tighter a code checker to see what the car can tell me. Anyone have any other ideas? Any help or suggestion would be appreciated. Otherwise, check the For Sale forum in a few weeks. The car will be there

OK I’m new to this so please bear with me. I’ve scanned the 2nd Gen forum and have seen a lot of posts concerning starting/flooding problems but couldn’t find any with the same symptoms.

The car starts and runs fine in any temperature, if it has been sitting for less than an hour or longer than about 4 hours. I can turn off the car without it heating up completely and it will start back up fine. So this doesn’t fit the typical “can’t start” problem. If the car sits for about and hour and a half to about three hours then I have starting problems. The engine cranks/turns over fine but just won’t start. Occasionally I can get it to start by flooring the accelerator, occasionally I can get it to start by pumping the hell out of it, most of the time it just won’t start at all. If I go back to it after about four hours it starts right up.

It’s a rebuilt with about 50K on it, compression was great last time checked. New plugs/wires don’t seem to make a difference.

Any words of wisdom from anyone?

Froggmann

I think I know what your talking about, my 89 N/A does the same thing. As for mine it seems to be a fuel starvation or air starvation problem.

Come to think of it it may be a Fuel injector leakage problem. Thats why she starts when the pedal is fully depressed.

TriangleMan

My car was doing the same thing, although it was at 160k miles on the stock engine. It would start fine until the car got too cold, usually ~4 hours, and then it wouldn't start but it would crank ok. The problem was basically flooding, although coolant seals leaking was causing the plugs to not fire as hot, thus it wouldn't start and would flood.

The ghetto deflooding procedure is to take a pair of vice grips and put them on the fuel line under the hood. Clamp em real good. You gotta have a buddy to help. Then, you get in the car and start cranking with the gas floored. It will just crank and crank, but keep cranking because it is deflooding it. Finally, it will start to turn over, and as soon as it does that, it means it's not flooded. Only problem is you are choking off the fuel supply, so your friend has to remove the vice grips at that moment so it can continue to run.

Like I said, this needs 2 ppl cuz you can't continue cranking it and remove the vice grips at the same time. Kinda sucks if you're stuck in a parking lot, but it works. You can also try the removing the fuse for the fuel injector trick too, but I didn't have as good of luck with that as I did with the vice grips.

Definitely find out what is making your engine flood as it cools down. Mine was coolant seals, but yours should be fine unless it was a crappy rebuild. Who did your rebuild?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Do a search for hot start...

Possibilities for your problem include bad injectors or low compression.

Jarrett

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Try this, it'll fix you right up:

INJECTION FUEL PRESSURE BLEED-OFF (86-92)

We continue getting a number of cars (86-92) in our service department (and many phone calls) with leaking fuel injectors. The main symptom is flooding after the car has been sitting for a few hours. It can manifest itself after running for as little as a minute or two! Basically, if you try to re-start the car anywhere from a few minutes, to a few hours later, it just will NOT start. The "no-start" is usually OK after sitting for the night.
The injection systems hold residual fuel pressure for many hours after the engine is shut off, and if an injector is leaking, it will simply drip fuel in the engine until the pressure has stopped. This part we have assembled should be considered a temporary fix, or a diagnostic tool only, because it is not going to fix the root problem. However, it can get the car back on the road for a lot fewer $$ than new injectors. Plus - it is hard to find out which injector(s) are the problem - you have four!
It is installed in-line where the fuel supply and return lines attach to the engine, below and forward of the oil filter. There is a very small jet inside the "H" that allows the residual pressure to bleed back to the tank, thereby preventing the pressurized dripping past an injector.
----- The Kit includes the fuel lines and clamps needed, plus installation instructions. -----

Part Number 13-MZ-BLEED
http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm

JClem

Thanks for the ideas. I picked up the car a few years ago from a lady I worked with. She bought it new, ran it up to 150K, dropped in a rebuilt and then sold it. She had the rebuild put in at a dealer in the Princeton, NJ area because she wanted it “done right”. The dealer is no longer there. Maybe that’s my problem

JClem

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. After looking through the forum I was starting to wonder about leaking injectors. I’ve seem a lot of references to having your injectors’ bench cleaned. Will this also help leaking injectors or is the only cure for that replacement? The pressure bleed off seems like a good idea if my only alternative is a replacement.

Icemark

NEVER EVER PUMP A FUEL INJECTED CAR TO START IT!!!!!!!

Probably the worst thing you can do when starting a FC as well. You will wash out the oil from the seals and make starting even harder.

Either don't touch the accell pedal when starting at all, or if it is less than 25F out, then you can pump once. But never keep pumping.

Even if it is flooded, only HOLD THE ACCELL PEDAL ALL THE WAY DOWN AND DO NOT PUMP WHILE CRANKING.

If you are having hot start problems as you describe and you are not touching the pedal, you have the typically hot start problem caused by low compression, leaking injectors or (if it is a S4) it might possibly be the very very rare blown transistor in the ECU.

But probably leaky injectors more than anything else.

And that is why no one answered your first post... it has been well covered... you just think your symptoms are slightly different.

And I edited the title of your thread to better reflect the question you are asking.

MR.GRIMM

I have the same type of problem with my 88 turbo.
when it's cold it will start w/out touching the pedal, it will still start even if i don't let it warm-up all the way, such as driving straight up to the gas station which is only 1 mile away @25mph. But, once it has warmed up it does not want to start unless it sits for at least 20-30 minutes, and I have to floor it, then it runs terrible for a while and will not idle.
I bought the bleed-off kit and that had no effect, but before I bought the kit I clamped off the feed line, let it run out of fuel, and the it started back up after taking the clamp off. When it dies on a normal basis I pull the egi fuse, crank it for 10 seconds, close the hood, floor it and pray! It normally works if it has sat for a while.
If anyone has some ideas please let me know. thanks.

RXSevenSymphonies

iTrader: (2)

Mr Grimm I have the same exact problem

Read my post on this thread https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=272007