Experienced Body/Paint members
Im not doubting you on that but I will start off with something small and see how I do from there then move abroad. But if prep is really the hardest part in making the finish come out right. Then its probably best I put for all my effort into gathering al lthe right materials and tools needed to do the job right. and If need be im not afraid to call in back up a friend(paints for living) and a co worker(paints and does body/uphosterly work for a living)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
The pics showing are really not that bad..
I see more "attachment" rust than anything else..rust on the parts that go on the car.
I fiddled with the parts stuff awhile back,taking the brackets off and sanding and painting with anti-rust paint.
I am guessing you want a REAL decent job done when doing this so I won't tell you to Spray your car like I did..(thread in build section..Bomb your car!).
I'll never get the money back I put into the car so I am not shelling out 3K to get it sprayed!
I see more "attachment" rust than anything else..rust on the parts that go on the car.
I fiddled with the parts stuff awhile back,taking the brackets off and sanding and painting with anti-rust paint.
I am guessing you want a REAL decent job done when doing this so I won't tell you to Spray your car like I did..(thread in build section..Bomb your car!).
I'll never get the money back I put into the car so I am not shelling out 3K to get it sprayed!
I went to the junk yard and bought an old hood off a pickup truck and practiced with bondo and paint before I did my car. Took about three trys to get it to where I thought was good enough to do on my car. It came out good for a rookie.
Just remeber when you think your done sanding sand some more with progressively higher grit paper.
Just remeber when you think your done sanding sand some more with progressively higher grit paper.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Vriginia,
Sanding in a general recommendation. Blocking is where it is at. Get a dual action sander, sand paper from 80 grit to 800 grit in various sizes, and sanding blocks. If you insist on doing it yourself practice on something else before you paint your car, that is one expensive mistake to fix. Single stage paints are easy to spray, but don't stand up over time (ESPECIALLY flat and matte colors). Clear coating is more expensive but it is will worth it. Learning to paint a car has one of the steepest learning curves of anything you can do to your car. It will either look good or look like $h!t.
I work in a body shop and I would recommend saving up your money and getting a real paint job at a good body shop. Go to car shows and ask people where they got their car painted. That is the best way, in terms of looks and durability.
But if you still insist, in the words of the late Leslie Nielsen, good luck and we are all counting on you.
I work in a body shop and I would recommend saving up your money and getting a real paint job at a good body shop. Go to car shows and ask people where they got their car painted. That is the best way, in terms of looks and durability.
But if you still insist, in the words of the late Leslie Nielsen, good luck and we are all counting on you.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Vriginia,
And thanks for the advice but for larger areas I know I'm going to mess up so I have taken the liberty and put money aside to order new parts in case I do mess up beyond repair.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Vriginia,
The pics showing are really not that bad..
I see more "attachment" rust than anything else..rust on the parts that go on the car.
I fiddled with the parts stuff awhile back,taking the brackets off and sanding and painting with anti-rust paint.
I am guessing you want a REAL decent job done when doing this so I won't tell you to Spray your car like I did..(thread in build section..Bomb your car!).
I'll never get the money back I put into the car so I am not shelling out 3K to get it sprayed!
I see more "attachment" rust than anything else..rust on the parts that go on the car.
I fiddled with the parts stuff awhile back,taking the brackets off and sanding and painting with anti-rust paint.
I am guessing you want a REAL decent job done when doing this so I won't tell you to Spray your car like I did..(thread in build section..Bomb your car!).
I'll never get the money back I put into the car so I am not shelling out 3K to get it sprayed!
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Vriginia,
I went to the junk yard and bought an old hood off a pickup truck and practiced with bondo and paint before I did my car. Took about three trys to get it to where I thought was good enough to do on my car. It came out good for a rookie.
Just remeber when you think your done sanding sand some more with progressively higher grit paper.
Just remeber when you think your done sanding sand some more with progressively higher grit paper.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Vriginia,
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: west chicago
practice on a hood is actually a really good idea. out of all the stuff I have repainted on my car this (atleast in my case) is by far the least forgiving.
You have two things going for you by choosing white. The first is the fact that white is THE CHEAPEST color to purchase! (Red being the most expensive due to the other colors required to make it).
The second being white hides a lot of imperfections(which is perfect for a first time try or a car that isn't completely straight, black is the worst as it shows the most defects and has to be lazer straight to look good).
The only drawback is it's one of the worst colors to keep clean (the worst being black!)
Just make sure you take your time properly masking things off and prepping the surfaces.
The second being white hides a lot of imperfections(which is perfect for a first time try or a car that isn't completely straight, black is the worst as it shows the most defects and has to be lazer straight to look good).
The only drawback is it's one of the worst colors to keep clean (the worst being black!)
Just make sure you take your time properly masking things off and prepping the surfaces.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 30
From: And the horse he rode in on...
Listen to Rob.
He has the most beautiful paint on the forum, and he does this stuff for a living on boats.
If I ever win the lottery, I'm gonna load all my RX7's on my yacht and take them to Rob's place for paint.
-Jack
He has the most beautiful paint on the forum, and he does this stuff for a living on boats.
If I ever win the lottery, I'm gonna load all my RX7's on my yacht and take them to Rob's place for paint.
-Jack
Quick question to the guru's:
86 GXL, near perfect Toronado Grey shop repaint many years ago. Now a couple of dings (nose, hood, doors). All minor, but ugly.
Can I NOT shoot the whole car clear coat and "blend " in the minor repairs without it looking obvious?
(no real bodywork experience here but pretty handy)
(hood damage is from an SUV tailpipe as they tried to back into a space in front of me. Straight line back from the front bumper...about 4 inches long, down to bare metal)
86 GXL, near perfect Toronado Grey shop repaint many years ago. Now a couple of dings (nose, hood, doors). All minor, but ugly.
Can I NOT shoot the whole car clear coat and "blend " in the minor repairs without it looking obvious?
(no real bodywork experience here but pretty handy)
(hood damage is from an SUV tailpipe as they tried to back into a space in front of me. Straight line back from the front bumper...about 4 inches long, down to bare metal)
Quick question to the guru's:
86 GXL, near perfect Toronado Grey shop repaint many years ago. Now a couple of dings (nose, hood, doors). All minor, but ugly.
Can I NOT shoot the whole car clear coat and "blend " in the minor repairs without it looking obvious?
(no real bodywork experience here but pretty handy)
(hood damage is from an SUV tailpipe as they tried to back into a space in front of me. Straight line back from the front bumper...about 4 inches long, down to bare metal)
86 GXL, near perfect Toronado Grey shop repaint many years ago. Now a couple of dings (nose, hood, doors). All minor, but ugly.
Can I NOT shoot the whole car clear coat and "blend " in the minor repairs without it looking obvious?
(no real bodywork experience here but pretty handy)
(hood damage is from an SUV tailpipe as they tried to back into a space in front of me. Straight line back from the front bumper...about 4 inches long, down to bare metal)
Thanks.
Well, I guess even the best "touchup" job is still just a touchup and will look like what it is, but it will have to do for now. I'll do my best with the understanding that it won't be perfect until I get it done right.
Well, I guess even the best "touchup" job is still just a touchup and will look like what it is, but it will have to do for now. I'll do my best with the understanding that it won't be perfect until I get it done right.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Vriginia,
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: west chicago
blending can be basically flawless if done correctly it is just beyond a normal person trying it. Ive painted a few cars and wont touch that LOL if i where you i would take the panels off fix them one at a time and paint them.