Experienced Body/Paint members
#1
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Experienced Body/Paint members
Just like the title reads, looking for the advice and wisdom of the experienced body people. I have a 87 FC that I am restoring. Before I can do anything to the car the body and chassis need to be repaired. I want to repaint the car and fix some rust in some areas. I plan to do this myself I don't mind working hard here are some pictures of the car will post more later today
#3
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...I don't even see any rust spots in the pics lol. Just scotch pad it and re spray it. Honestly though I would try using a variable speed polisher on some of that just for kicks, you would be surprised what a real one can do to faded paint(aka not autozone 1 speed)
#5
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Rust is on the inside I will take more pictures later today
#7
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i would try to buff it out first, you might be surprised.
that car is already repainted
that car is already repainted
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#11
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true, information on the paints/primers mixing is usually easy to access as well. Just remember a decent paint job is all the prep work the actual paint itself is the easy part. If you plan on wet sanding the clear you need a polisher if you want to be done before you are 50 :P or you work your arms off.
#12
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Ok so I'm really ignorant when it comes to paint(ashamed to admit it ) but I gotta start somewhere right. By top coat are you referring to the color coat, or clear coat.
#15
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Congrats ! I hope you know what you're gettong yourself into...
I'm in the middle of a color change as well... seeing as this is a winter rotary , I'm using ppg shopline epoxy primer , and shopline acrylic enamel single stage. Truth be told , if its not a show car , daily driven , non turbo , and likely to eat a few scuffs in ita s lifetime, then a good single stage is right for you. Acrylic enamel is durable and will look wet. However , if you're going for a metallic color (which I do not recommend if youre new to this) , then a two stage base then clear would be more appropriate.
Prep is the most important part, but arm yourself with knowledge. There are legit reputable body shops and even auto body educators that have youtube channels filled with hours of everything and anything you'll need to know.
I'm in the middle of a color change as well... seeing as this is a winter rotary , I'm using ppg shopline epoxy primer , and shopline acrylic enamel single stage. Truth be told , if its not a show car , daily driven , non turbo , and likely to eat a few scuffs in ita s lifetime, then a good single stage is right for you. Acrylic enamel is durable and will look wet. However , if you're going for a metallic color (which I do not recommend if youre new to this) , then a two stage base then clear would be more appropriate.
Prep is the most important part, but arm yourself with knowledge. There are legit reputable body shops and even auto body educators that have youtube channels filled with hours of everything and anything you'll need to know.
#16
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Thread Starter
Congrats ! I hope you know what you're gettong yourself into...
I'm in the middle of a color change as well... seeing as this is a winter rotary , I'm using ppg shopline epoxy primer , and shopline acrylic enamel single stage. Truth be told , if its not a show car , daily driven , non turbo , and likely to eat a few scuffs in ita s lifetime, then a good single stage is right for you. Acrylic enamel is durable and will look wet. However , if you're going for a metallic color (which I do not recommend if youre new to this) , then a two stage base then clear would be more appropriate.
Prep is the most important part, but arm yourself with knowledge. There are legit reputable body shops and even auto body educators that have youtube channels filled with hours of everything and anything you'll need to know.
I'm in the middle of a color change as well... seeing as this is a winter rotary , I'm using ppg shopline epoxy primer , and shopline acrylic enamel single stage. Truth be told , if its not a show car , daily driven , non turbo , and likely to eat a few scuffs in ita s lifetime, then a good single stage is right for you. Acrylic enamel is durable and will look wet. However , if you're going for a metallic color (which I do not recommend if youre new to this) , then a two stage base then clear would be more appropriate.
Prep is the most important part, but arm yourself with knowledge. There are legit reputable body shops and even auto body educators that have youtube channels filled with hours of everything and anything you'll need to know.
#18
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yea man im trying to take my time in planning out everything. I'm looking for a cherry picker right now, and once ive got that I plan to look for a Transmission jack/stand as well. But colors ive narrowed it down to are 1) Artic White, 2) Winter White, 3) Pure White, and Satin White. I don't need the paint to be real glossy looking because the new wheels will prolly be a glossy black. I'm trying to set it up so they compliment eachother.
#22
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that is what im leaning towards haha I told myself what ever shade is chose was gonna hav ea matte finish to it anyway. But with Satin there is no need since it already has that dull shine anyway and when polished real good it has a lustrous shine but not a super glossy one which what I like .
#24
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Im not doubting you on that but I will start off with something small and see how I do from there then move abroad. But if prep is really the hardest part in making the finish come out right. Then its probably best I put for all my effort into gathering al lthe right materials and tools needed to do the job right. and If need be im not afraid to call in back up a friend(paints for living) and a co worker(paints and does body/uphosterly work for a living)
#25
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Sanding in a general recommendation. Blocking is where it is at. Get a dual action sander, sand paper from 80 grit to 800 grit in various sizes, and sanding blocks. If you insist on doing it yourself practice on something else before you paint your car, that is one expensive mistake to fix. Single stage paints are easy to spray, but don't stand up over time (ESPECIALLY flat and matte colors). Clear coating is more expensive but it is will worth it. Learning to paint a car has one of the steepest learning curves of anything you can do to your car. It will either look good or look like $h!t.
I work in a body shop and I would recommend saving up your money and getting a real paint job at a good body shop. Go to car shows and ask people where they got their car painted. That is the best way, in terms of looks and durability.
But if you still insist, in the words of the late Leslie Nielsen, good luck and we are all counting on you.
I work in a body shop and I would recommend saving up your money and getting a real paint job at a good body shop. Go to car shows and ask people where they got their car painted. That is the best way, in terms of looks and durability.
But if you still insist, in the words of the late Leslie Nielsen, good luck and we are all counting on you.