2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 08-22-13, 08:54 AM
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Experienced Body/Paint members

Just like the title reads, looking for the advice and wisdom of the experienced body people. I have a 87 FC that I am restoring. Before I can do anything to the car the body and chassis need to be repaired. I want to repaint the car and fix some rust in some areas. I plan to do this myself I don't mind working hard here are some pictures of the car will post more later today

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Old 08-22-13, 09:39 AM
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So what's the question?

Nevermind.
The answer to any bodywork question is always "Sanding, do more!".
Old 08-22-13, 10:21 AM
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...I don't even see any rust spots in the pics lol. Just scotch pad it and re spray it. Honestly though I would try using a variable speed polisher on some of that just for kicks, you would be surprised what a real one can do to faded paint(aka not autozone 1 speed)
Old 08-22-13, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by clokker
So what's the question?

Nevermind.
The answer to any bodywork question is always "Sanding, do more!".
Grades?
Old 08-22-13, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by nepopolus
...I don't even see any rust spots in the pics lol. Just scotch pad it and re spray it. Honestly though I would try using a variable speed polisher on some of that just for kicks, you would be surprised what a real one can do to faded paint(aka not autozone 1 speed)
Rust is on the inside I will take more pictures later today
Old 08-22-13, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedLoverD
Grades?
depends on your primer/sealer
Old 08-22-13, 01:07 PM
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i would try to buff it out first, you might be surprised.

that car is already repainted
Old 08-22-13, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7

depends on your primer/sealer
Any recommendations?
Old 08-22-13, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i would try to buff it out first, you might be surprised.

that car is already repainted
I plan changing the color actually
Old 08-22-13, 03:27 PM
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you need to figure out your topcoat first, then figure your primer/sealer based on that topcoat. You dont necessarily need them to be from the same manufacturer but you need a plan before you start sanding.
Old 08-22-13, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
you need to figure out your topcoat first, then figure your primer/sealer based on that topcoat. You dont necessarily need them to be from the same manufacturer but you need a plan before you start sanding.
true, information on the paints/primers mixing is usually easy to access as well. Just remember a decent paint job is all the prep work the actual paint itself is the easy part. If you plan on wet sanding the clear you need a polisher if you want to be done before you are 50 :P or you work your arms off.
Old 08-22-13, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
you need to figure out your topcoat first, then figure your primer/sealer based on that topcoat. You dont necessarily need them to be from the same manufacturer but you need a plan before you start sanding.
Ok so I'm really ignorant when it comes to paint(ashamed to admit it ) but I gotta start somewhere right. By top coat are you referring to the color coat, or clear coat.
Old 08-22-13, 04:33 PM
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topcoat- the paint. Either single stage or base/clear.

who is painting it?
if you have someone who is painting it for you ask them, if not check what is available locally and go from there.
Old 08-22-13, 04:40 PM
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I plan on painting it myself since its my project I feel I should contribute as much as I can to the build
Old 08-22-13, 05:21 PM
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Congrats ! I hope you know what you're gettong yourself into...

I'm in the middle of a color change as well... seeing as this is a winter rotary , I'm using ppg shopline epoxy primer , and shopline acrylic enamel single stage. Truth be told , if its not a show car , daily driven , non turbo , and likely to eat a few scuffs in ita s lifetime, then a good single stage is right for you. Acrylic enamel is durable and will look wet. However , if you're going for a metallic color (which I do not recommend if youre new to this) , then a two stage base then clear would be more appropriate.

Prep is the most important part, but arm yourself with knowledge. There are legit reputable body shops and even auto body educators that have youtube channels filled with hours of everything and anything you'll need to know.
Old 08-22-13, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Acesanugal
Congrats ! I hope you know what you're gettong yourself into...

I'm in the middle of a color change as well... seeing as this is a winter rotary , I'm using ppg shopline epoxy primer , and shopline acrylic enamel single stage. Truth be told , if its not a show car , daily driven , non turbo , and likely to eat a few scuffs in ita s lifetime, then a good single stage is right for you. Acrylic enamel is durable and will look wet. However , if you're going for a metallic color (which I do not recommend if youre new to this) , then a two stage base then clear would be more appropriate.

Prep is the most important part, but arm yourself with knowledge. There are legit reputable body shops and even auto body educators that have youtube channels filled with hours of everything and anything you'll need to know.
thanks I really appreciate the advice its going to be dailey driven. im going to go do some research on the pros/cons and diffuculty of single/ 2 stage coats. and i know there are a few body shops in the area but some want to much and others don't want to do a complete restoration. So i went in with the mindset if you want something done right do it yourself. besides I think ill enjoy the intimacy with the FC she looks rough now but its still my pride and joy to have it though.
Old 08-22-13, 07:59 PM
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If you're changing color, just make sure to do it the right way by doing all the jams and pulling the engine to do the engine bay. Any idea what color you're wanting to change to?
Old 08-22-13, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bluemp301
If you're changing color, just make sure to do it the right way by doing all the jams and pulling the engine to do the engine bay. Any idea what color you're wanting to change to?
yea man im trying to take my time in planning out everything. I'm looking for a cherry picker right now, and once ive got that I plan to look for a Transmission jack/stand as well. But colors ive narrowed it down to are 1) Artic White, 2) Winter White, 3) Pure White, and Satin White. I don't need the paint to be real glossy looking because the new wheels will prolly be a glossy black. I'm trying to set it up so they compliment eachother.
Old 08-22-13, 08:40 PM
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the Lambo is Satin/Matte White, The Puegot(sp?) I believe is Arctic white, and the Porshe is Winter White.
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Old 08-22-13, 08:43 PM
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and these are the wheels
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Old 08-22-13, 08:44 PM
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Satin is in.
Old 08-22-13, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Acesanugal
Satin is in.
that is what im leaning towards haha I told myself what ever shade is chose was gonna hav ea matte finish to it anyway. But with Satin there is no need since it already has that dull shine anyway and when polished real good it has a lustrous shine but not a super glossy one which what I like .
Old 08-22-13, 09:09 PM
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Satin is tough for a novice to spray
Old 08-22-13, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
Satin is tough for a novice to spray
Im not doubting you on that but I will start off with something small and see how I do from there then move abroad. But if prep is really the hardest part in making the finish come out right. Then its probably best I put for all my effort into gathering al lthe right materials and tools needed to do the job right. and If need be im not afraid to call in back up a friend(paints for living) and a co worker(paints and does body/uphosterly work for a living)
Old 08-22-13, 09:19 PM
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Sanding in a general recommendation. Blocking is where it is at. Get a dual action sander, sand paper from 80 grit to 800 grit in various sizes, and sanding blocks. If you insist on doing it yourself practice on something else before you paint your car, that is one expensive mistake to fix. Single stage paints are easy to spray, but don't stand up over time (ESPECIALLY flat and matte colors). Clear coating is more expensive but it is will worth it. Learning to paint a car has one of the steepest learning curves of anything you can do to your car. It will either look good or look like $h!t.

I work in a body shop and I would recommend saving up your money and getting a real paint job at a good body shop. Go to car shows and ask people where they got their car painted. That is the best way, in terms of looks and durability.

But if you still insist, in the words of the late Leslie Nielsen, good luck and we are all counting on you.


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