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Old 07-21-09, 03:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
your dealer will have the thermostat, its like $15 or less
only problem is that there is no mazda dealer local and honestly i dont want to go to roseville to get a thermostat
Old 07-21-09, 04:31 AM
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http://www.autopartsworld.com/mazda_...stat/1987.html The Nippon one.
Old 10-04-12, 06:24 PM
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Bumping this because I don't feel like making a new thread about something that's been covered a billion times.

My s5 N/A runs at about 3/5ths at full temp. It's been like this since I bought it.
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Now I figured I'd buy a water temp. gauge on Friday and I have access to a drill and tap because I have machine shop on Wednesdays in college but I have NO IDEA how to wire anything and will removing the water pump require removing all the coolant from the vehicle and then refilling it? I don't feel comfortable doing all of this but I need to know what the actual temperature is.
Old 10-04-12, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Amur_
Grats on fixing it. I'm gonna post this anyway.






This is the quick and easy spot to install the sensor. Being situated downstream of the thermostat, you won't see the temp rise until the thermostat starts to open, which in my mind isn't a big deal since you don't generally care about engine temps 'til they start to reach the 180F neighbourhood...
This is not for the temp sensor.. The temp Sensor is NEar the Oil pressure sensor.. That top sensor is for backup emergency electric fan. and something else.
Old 10-04-12, 07:22 PM
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Swapping out the pump will lose all the coolant above it's level...so basically, about half of the car's water will have to be refilled.
Old 10-04-12, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan2949
Bumping this because I don't feel like making a new thread about something that's been covered a billion times.

My s5 N/A runs at about 3/5ths at full temp. It's been like this since I bought it.


Now I figured I'd buy a water temp. gauge on Friday and I have access to a drill and tap because I have machine shop on Wednesdays in college but I have NO IDEA how to wire anything and will removing the water pump require removing all the coolant from the vehicle and then refilling it? I don't feel comfortable doing all of this but I need to know what the actual temperature is.
It wont matter what the stock gauge may say.. Because the S4 86-88 Hardly move off the cold line.. The s5 89-91 runs half way if not more up the gauge... Make sure you have the under wrap plastic peice under the car.. Or the air wont get forced threw the rad. and get a mechanical test gauge for the water temp. Digital. Then you can see the true temp.
Old 10-04-12, 07:50 PM
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I'm confused, you said "get a mechanical test gauge for the water temp. Digital." Did you tell me to get a mechanical one or digital? Aha. I also have no clue where to drill and tap. Any more photos of where is the best or easiest place to put the new sensor? Also, why does it need to be wired? Don't you just plug it then put the gauge somewhere in the car? Why does it require wiring and where.
Old 10-06-12, 10:48 AM
  #33  
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What he's saying (besides being wrong about the S4 barely moving from cold...normally it should show about 1/4 and is actually quite accurate) is that you need to use an aftermarket gauge to confirm the temperature. The S5 gauge is heavily damped and stays at about half over a wide range of temperatures, so it's kind of useless. On an aftermarket gauge your car should stay around 86 degrees C, give or take.
Old 10-08-12, 02:09 PM
  #34  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by jjwalker
You can have the radiator cored out at a rad shop if one is around, but if you have the platic end capped stock radiator, you might as well chunk it and replace it anyway. Those plastic caps tend to fail, which is bad juju.
Hear, hear! Except that I wouldn't suggest you 'might as well', but would say 'get rid of it ASAP'.

If you're running warm anyway, IMHO you're heading for disaster. In my '88 N/A, the radiator had a crimp on a corner fail and ruined the engine. It was a hot day and by the time I saw a puff of white from under the hood, it was too late.

The plastic end-cap-crimped design is just plain stupid and replacing it was the first thing I did on the 10th AE I bought a while back.


- k -
Old 10-08-12, 04:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by kel

The plastic end-cap-crimped design is just plain stupid and replacing it was the first thing I did on the 10th AE I bought a while back.


- k -

those OEM radiators last well over 20 years, hardly consider that crap, every new car today comes with the same radiators as well


funny thing happen a few weeks ago- on my way home from Rotorfest a month or two ago its a fairly cooler evening for August, im stuck in traffic and notice my temp gauge hovering in the 208-212 range, I find it odd but there is no good place to pull over so I decide to keep my eyes on it.
Meanwhile the factory s4 gauge which moves less then a 1/4 of the way off Cold seems normal.
I keep my eyes on it and continue driving. Get out of traffic and im coasting along. I know at this point my car would be running about 182-186 cycling with the fan and thermostat but that mechanical gauge still says around 210. I get home and plug the laptop into the car and sure enough everything is normal.

So for that night the "crappy" OEM S4 gauge out performed my aftermarket gauge. Next day the mechanical gauge was back to normal, must have gotten stuck or something?

Moral of the story- its really good to have more than 1 temp gauge
Old 11-08-12, 05:30 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
What he's saying (besides being wrong about the S4 barely moving from cold...normally it should show about 1/4 and is actually quite accurate) is that you need to use an aftermarket gauge to confirm the temperature. The S5 gauge is heavily damped and stays at about half over a wide range of temperatures, so it's kind of useless. On an aftermarket gauge your car should stay around 86 degrees C, give or take.
I run about 198f to 200f. S4 TII, brand new motor, brand new hoses. Stock fan and
shroud, koyo rad. doesn't seem to really move from there. No matter if I'm on the highway or on some side streets. Now the stock sensor reads around 185 to
180 on the rtech.
Old 11-08-12, 11:59 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
What he's saying (besides being wrong about the S4 barely moving from cold...normally it should show about 1/4 and is actually quite accurate) is that you need to use an aftermarket gauge to confirm the temperature. The S5 gauge is heavily damped and stays at about half over a wide range of temperatures, so it's kind of useless. On an aftermarket gauge your car should stay around 86 degrees C, give or take.
I have had my s4 car since 2003. It hardly moves off the cold mark when warm. s5 it shows half way. my Car was running hot at 1/4th
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