This is what I found inside .. keep in mind that this spare will probably never make more than 1000 km. even if it is used regular . let me know what you think ..

 

the copper on the puzzle lock area of the bearings is normal.. those bearings may be OK

side plate step where is caused by the side seals and corner seals passing hard against the plate when the rotor tilts against the rotor land during combustion,, again normal

your plates may be a little out of spec for step wear , but its not massively important for your need, may have some implications for overall compression but most wouldnt know the difference

oil control chromes show history of a lot of use ( the shiny edge ) but again,, you could reuse these as long as you replace the O rings behind them ( always ) , for your use a little smoking is acceptable.. and i expect this sort of wear may make for a little puff when the motor cold starts

rotors should be NA s4 , and if stock 3 piece the apex seal pieces will be seperated longitutally ,, with a diagonal wedge piece on the end
if the are just solid ,, with an diagonal wedge , then the engine has been rebuilt before


overall,, things look in very good condition,, a gem , considering
for your needs ,, after you free up the stuck rotor ...
you only need the water seals gasket kit and oil control O rings and new apex seals and springs ( and FD corner seal springs ) to make a nice shady tree engine that will do what you want very well

you may wish to port this engine while it is out , and a template is a must

 

Thanks for your time bumpstart , didn't planned on apex seals but it is no doubt where a little extra cash should go , .. I will for sure do the o rings for the oil control , also the corner seal rubbers and springs for the corner seals .. Of course I broke one side seal , Is it acceptable to replace only one or should they be all done ?

Porting ?? well it seems from what I have read that there can be very nice results in the mid range without effecting the low end power from doing the intake end irons with 5 and 6 ports left in and just clean the center irons up a tad and leave exhaust as it is . If I go to the extra porting work etc. I think I will put this engine in the bike and use the first one for a spare .

One thing to mention ,, When I took the OMP off I found it was full of silicone inside the pump cavity . The linkage was still hooked up so I don't think it was intended to block off the pump , I think it is just another careless silicone application trying to seal the OMP to the engine . There was a little room at one end of the pump to sneak a little oil through,maybe 10 % of the hole was open . Anyone from the forum interested in supplying parts please feel free to pm. me with prices and shipping costs . Thanks Gerald m.