Nytrate

iTrader: (1)

** Copyed from my thread in the NW Section **


Well, here is the situation.

Today I was at work (Office Depot). And I saw this dude by computers.. so i went over and guess who it was... Otay. Haha so we got to talking and I was telling him about a 13b i had sitting in my garage that i was trying to get a rebuild going.

The engine came from a 87 Auto NA

My Issue is that I cant get the damn thing open!


I Have tryed to unscrew the bolts and **** that hold it together.

pics:









Any Ideas would be great

jay-red

iTrader: (1)

I had to use an impact gun, it wasnt even a pneumatic one, just a plain ol electric one and it came right off. Now the front bolt, holy crap that thing was impossible to get off, i had to hold then engine while my gf's dad pretty much jumped on a cheater bar.

Eva001Ikari

iTrader: (7)

If you have taken off all the through bolts it should just come right apart unless i am hugely mistaken (which i usually am). It is possible however that the seal goo (hylomar, silicone, gasket maker w/e) has got it all stuck together with the rust and oil and all that other crap.

bumpstart

dude !
there is two through bolts OUTSIDE of the bell housing area
( one has the mazda logo and is longer than the rest, note its position )

you have undone only one !

look, bloody obvious in your pic

bumpstart

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha, I saw that too.

There are free FSM's available online for this sort of thing.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

You still have the eccentric shaft nut on - you remove this one (and the front eccentric shaft bolt, hub, front cover, chain, counterweight, needle bearings, etc.) before you take out the 18 tension bolts.

Basically, the front and rear eccentric shaft fasteners (in addition to the tension bolt you forgot) are holding the engine together.

edit: O.K., I see what you're doing. Put the tension bolts back (snug is enough) then snug up the flywheel back and use some chain and bolts to hold the flywheel stationary. Then have someone hold the engine and someone standing on the breaker bar and hit the end of the breaker bar with a motherf'ing hammer. Either that or use a good impact wrench. The rear nut and front bolt have threadlocker from the factory, so heat may help break it down too.

Hello Roto

i just put a flywheel stopper then had my bro stand on the engine and i stomp on the breaker bar.. works everytime (after about 10 mins.)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Good luck trying to get the engine to crack open if you haven't taken off the 54 mm Flywheel nut and the 19mm Front Pulley nut!

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, like others have said, you've still got quite a bit to take off yet:

-I'd put a couple of the tension bolts back in before you try and take the front bolt off. This one can be a bitch. Use the propane torch and heat it until the pulley boss area starts to smoke a bit. Hit it with a pnumatic impact gun or get to work with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe as a cheater on the end to give you more leverage. The engine will want flip over so keep it in place somehow, sticking it on an engine stand with the rotary adapter is the easiest way, but if you don't have one just get creative. Also the engine will want to spin over, so you'll need to lock in in place somehow. If you have a stock flexplate or a flywheel, re-bolt it to the counterweight and use it keep the engine still by wedging something in between one of the ring gear teeth and something solid. You may have to repeat the torch process a few times before it comes free. Anyway when it does, just slide the pulley boss off the front of the eshaft and watch for the spring to fall out of the nose of the eshaft, don't lose that. Leave the front stationary gear in place and thread a couple of the 12mm bolts back into the holes so that it doesnt fall out when you flip the engine over.

- Take the front cover off and then all of the stuff underneath. CAS gear, oil pump drive and oil pump, thrust washers, etc. The easiest way to take the pump off is to leave the center nut on and just take the 4 10mm bolts off.

-The big 54mm Flywheel nut needs to come off. Use a propane torch and heat it up for a couple mins and it should come free with quite a bit of force

-The rear counterweight needs to come off too. The easiest way at this point would be to use a puller. When it comes off there will be a small flywheel key inserted in the side of the eshaft. It should just come out with a little force with a flathead screwdriver. Take it out and keep it someplace where you wont lose it either.

-From your pics there is still a tension bolt that still needs to come out. Looking at the engine from the rear, its on the bottom left.

-Take the rear stationary gear out, you'll have to pry up around the edge to get it to pop up out of the rear iron.

-The motor comes apart rear to front. Knock around the edges of the rear iron with a rubber mallet and it should seperate from the rotor housing. It may want to take the housing with it, that's fine. Just make sure not to damage the tips of the rotor when you disassemble. They're pretty fragile and bend easily.

And yeah, Download the FSM, its in the FAQ. Good luck.

Edit: Tip, you can use one of the passenger side 17mm motor mount bolts as a dowel pin puller. They are the same size and thread pitch.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Stanello,

I like your tip about removing the oil pump bolts so you don't mess with the center nut, which has a locking flat washer that is bent to hold the nut. I also like the tip about the engine mount bolt making a good dowel puller if the threads are the same. That's FAQ stuff right there.

The only part I don't agree with is messing with the stationary gears (removing them). You shouldn't remove them before you have the engine apart, since they support the eccentric shaft and keep it straight.

OP, FSM in my sig.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

You're right, you don't need to remove either.

I usually take the bolts out of the front, remove the thrust plate, washer, spacer, and torrington bearings and thread a couple of the gear bolts back into the iron to hold it in place.

I take the rear out more or less as a reminder to replace the small rubber o-ring that goes around it on re-assembly.

There's no right way to do it. I think the FSM says to leave the rear gear in the iron, but in the end it doesn't really matter.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

I assume you are having trouble with the counterbalance nut.

If you can get an impact gun, it should come off easy, mine did.

Nytrate

iTrader: (1)

thanks for all the tips, I havnt had a chance to try any yet beecause of school and work. i will get to it next week when i have a day off.

Thanks

Anymore tips would be great