engine stopped cranking
#51
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update: the exhaust is removed and the motor mounts are loose. The ECU has also been disconnected. Just out of curiosity, does rebuilding a rotary require a machine shop? Because I have had such bad experiences with the one I use lately, and if so, I need to find another.
#52
Full Member
Thread Starter
I don't mean to sound like the typical power thirsty rice building teenager, but this seems legitimate: http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine...wiring-ecu-maf
It has engine, Transmission, ECU and a wiring harness. What else would I need?
It has engine, Transmission, ECU and a wiring harness. What else would I need?
#53
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Chances are that engine will need rebuilding for that's just the way it is. You've been advised to pull your engine apart and see what you need to bring it back to life. You can heed this sage advice or you can do what you want regardless as to whether it is the wisest thing to do or not.
#54
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
I don't mean to sound like the typical power thirsty rice building teenager, but this seems legitimate: http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine...wiring-ecu-maf
It has engine, Transmission, ECU and a wiring harness. What else would I need?
It has engine, Transmission, ECU and a wiring harness. What else would I need?
Machine work yes, it will need to be done, you will need to get the irons lapped for a proper job, and most machine shops don't have the knowledge to do so. But you can send yours out to any rotary shop and they will inspect and lap them (banzai racing, pineapple racing, rotary evolution, list goes on)
For sure download the FSM and use that as a guide for all your measuring and how to take apart/rebuild
#56
Theoretical Tinkerer
iTrader: (41)
It's one of the less common failures, so 'typical' doesn't really apply. As stated before, you won't know until the engine is opened up.
I highly suggest getting an engine from a running car. No matter where you are $200 for an engine is a big gamble. JDM's even more so. I'd say 4-500 is reasonable. You'll spend at least that much rebuilding the engine anyway. Replace the engine and enjoy driving the car.
In you spare time, open up the engine with the class, clean/inspect parts, decide if you really want to rebuild it or sell off the good parts. Nothing spoils a fun hobby like deadlines.
I highly suggest getting an engine from a running car. No matter where you are $200 for an engine is a big gamble. JDM's even more so. I'd say 4-500 is reasonable. You'll spend at least that much rebuilding the engine anyway. Replace the engine and enjoy driving the car.
In you spare time, open up the engine with the class, clean/inspect parts, decide if you really want to rebuild it or sell off the good parts. Nothing spoils a fun hobby like deadlines.
#58
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
$1600 and then pay for a rebuild or rebuild your own. A good housing and rotor can be had pretty regular on the forum for about $500.
Rebuild kit is rebuild kit. For a price check Atkin's Rotary.
Rebuild kit is rebuild kit. For a price check Atkin's Rotary.
#59
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
Been kinda said, worth repeating:
Slow down, clean everything (including engine bay). label every hose, wire, etc., study the FSM, take engine apart, one step at a time. Post in your regional section...maybe someone will lend a hand or be your mentor.
Only after seeing what your engine is like inside, post up and research options.
We've been there. You can either be young and stupid, or learn from our mistakes.
Slow down, clean everything (including engine bay). label every hose, wire, etc., study the FSM, take engine apart, one step at a time. Post in your regional section...maybe someone will lend a hand or be your mentor.
Only after seeing what your engine is like inside, post up and research options.
We've been there. You can either be young and stupid, or learn from our mistakes.
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: vancouver, bc
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pulling the pan to inspect for debris/damage would have been a quicker way to obtain info. not to mention that an isb is going to make noise (and probably for quite some time) before it grenades.
but nobody needs a pissing match. i'll just say it wouldn't be my first thought with the symptoms described. but hey, hindsight is 20/20. and we are where we are now.
#68
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
pulling the pan to inspect for debris/damage would have been a quicker way to obtain info. not to mention that an isb is going to make noise (and probably for quite some time) before it grenades.
but nobody needs a pissing match. i'll just say it wouldn't be my first thought with the symptoms described. but hey, hindsight is 20/20. and we are where we are now.
#69
Full Member
Thread Starter
I am looking at pricing of the kit at Atkins. Other than the replacement rotor/housing or replacement stat gear, what else might I need other than this? Also, I am unsure if I need 2mm or 3 mm rotor seals...
#70
Full Member
Thread Starter
Sorry, here's the link. http://atkinsrotary.com/store/86-95-...it-ARE146.html
#71
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,849
Received 2,613 Likes
on
1,852 Posts
you might want to pull the engine out and apart enough to figure out why it doesn't spin before you order parts
#73
Full Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I'm obviously not trying to make a racecar. Against all recommendations, this has been my daily. And I have a quite a long commute. XD I think I will go for the closer kit because this is my first time, and I'd rather have new parts for reliability purposes. Thanks a lot guys.
#75
Full Member
Thread Starter
Sorry it's been a while since I last updated. I have been driving my father's vehicle (which needs lots of work) under the condition that I work on it if I drive it to school. But tomorrow I will resume work to the RX7. Last week I got as far at stripping it down to the bare Keg (including removing oil pan and pickup tube). I am having issues removing the flywheel however. I have tried using a steering wheel puller and a harmonic balancer puller to no avail. I am currently welding a similar tool together (of a larger type) out of tubular steel and a big nut and bolt. If this doesn't work idk what I will do. How have you guys removed flywheels (without the sst of course)