Update: the exhaust is removed and the motor mounts are loose. The ECU has also been disconnected. Just out of curiosity, does rebuilding a rotary require a machine shop? Because I have had such bad experiences with the one I use lately, and if so, I need to find another.

 

I don't mean to sound like the typical power thirsty rice building teenager, but this seems legitimate: http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine...wiring-ecu-maf

It has engine, Transmission, ECU and a wiring harness. What else would I need?

 

Chances are that engine will need rebuilding for that's just the way it is. You've been advised to pull your engine apart and see what you need to bring it back to life. You can heed this sage advice or you can do what you want regardless as to whether it is the wisest thing to do or not.

 

Don't waste your money on a JDM engine. There is a VERY high probability it will need to be rebuilt, and it will cost almost that much to rebuild yours (depending on the damage)

Machine work yes, it will need to be done, you will need to get the irons lapped for a proper job, and most machine shops don't have the knowledge to do so. But you can send yours out to any rotary shop and they will inspect and lap them (banzai racing, pineapple racing, rotary evolution, list goes on)

For sure download the FSM and use that as a guide for all your measuring and how to take apart/rebuild

 

Does a jammed stat gear require new rotors/housings?

 

It's one of the less common failures, so 'typical' doesn't really apply. As stated before, you won't know until the engine is opened up.

I highly suggest getting an engine from a running car. No matter where you are $200 for an engine is a big gamble. JDM's even more so. I'd say 4-500 is reasonable. You'll spend at least that much rebuilding the engine anyway. Replace the engine and enjoy driving the car.

In you spare time, open up the engine with the class, clean/inspect parts, decide if you really want to rebuild it or sell off the good parts. Nothing spoils a fun hobby like deadlines.

 

That JDM engine was $1600 where are these $400 engines you guys are talking about? I'd like one. XD

 

$1600 and then pay for a rebuild or rebuild your own. A good housing and rotor can be had pretty regular on the forum for about $500.

Rebuild kit is rebuild kit. For a price check Atkin's Rotary.

 

Been kinda said, worth repeating:

Slow down, clean everything (including engine bay). label every hose, wire, etc., study the FSM, take engine apart, one step at a time. Post in your regional section...maybe someone will lend a hand or be your mentor.

Only after seeing what your engine is like inside, post up and research options.

We've been there. You can either be young and stupid, or learn from our mistakes.

 

Sorry, I meant a local non-turbo engine. Craigslist and the regional forums are probably your best bet.

 

Progress on the front end of the motor. I will have the Compressor and power steering taken off and put to the side before the day is over.

 

There's also a blanket to protect her white paint (and incase she gets cold)

 

You have the FSM yet? Links around for download (also, my sig.).

Also, in case you don't know...you don't have to undo the A/C hoses from the compressor. You can unbolt the compressor and hold it to the side with a wire.

 

I gave the FSM downloaded in my phone and my tablet. I also gave a Haynes manual. c:

 

I look to the Haynes for instructions and the FSM for specs.

 

Haynes is pretty much a "how to for dummies" book, it has info yes, but its lacking ALOT of needed info.

You really don't even need the manual to tear it apart, just rip and tear, but mark where all dose bolts go lol

 

pulling the pan to inspect for debris/damage would have been a quicker way to obtain info. not to mention that an isb is going to make noise (and probably for quite some time) before it grenades.
but nobody needs a pissing match. i'll just say it wouldn't be my first thought with the symptoms described. but hey, hindsight is 20/20. and we are where we are now.

 

Wasn't trying to start a length contest, we aren't politicians here

 

I am looking at pricing of the kit at Atkins. Other than the replacement rotor/housing or replacement stat gear, what else might I need other than this? Also, I am unsure if I need 2mm or 3 mm rotor seals...

 

Sorry, here's the link. http://atkinsrotary.com/store/86-95-...it-ARE146.html

 

you might want to pull the engine out and apart enough to figure out why it doesn't spin before you order parts

 

Yes, and you may not need a FULL rebuild kit, may be able to piece together your own for cheaper

Also, all stock mazda rotors are 2mm seals, 3mm seals are for serious builders

 

Yes, I'm obviously not trying to make a racecar. Against all recommendations, this has been my daily. And I have a quite a long commute. XD I think I will go for the closer kit because this is my first time, and I'd rather have new parts for reliability purposes. Thanks a lot guys.

 

OH! and I'm just pricing, because I am not with the vehicle and can not Work on it atm. Just preparing myself.

 

Sorry it's been a while since I last updated. I have been driving my father's vehicle (which needs lots of work) under the condition that I work on it if I drive it to school. But tomorrow I will resume work to the RX7. Last week I got as far at stripping it down to the bare Keg (including removing oil pan and pickup tube). I am having issues removing the flywheel however. I have tried using a steering wheel puller and a harmonic balancer puller to no avail. I am currently welding a similar tool together (of a larger type) out of tubular steel and a big nut and bolt. If this doesn't work idk what I will do. How have you guys removed flywheels (without the sst of course)