but seriously, if you can hear the starter engage, it's not the starter. not likely to be clutch or transmission related. only thing on that end would be a seized pocket bearing. even a seized clutch disc would cause it to jump when cranking. and it wouldn't all of a sudden seize.
grinding noise before it "seized"? good possibility it's a stat gear

 

What's a stat gear?

 

Stationary gear, its what the rotors spin on when its spinning. If you watch some tear aparts you'll see

 

That sounds difficult to get to.

 

oh it's not that bad. all you have to do is remove the rotor(s), and e shaft.
k yea it doesn't get much worse.
what i'd do:
remove the starter. attempt to turn engine by hand. still won't budge? remove all accesory belts. attempt to turn by hand. still won't go? jack up the rear, trans in neutral, if you can turn the rear wheels by hand, it's an internal engine failure. i highly doubt it's going to be any of those three, but they're easy enough to cancel out. and you'll be removing those parts anyways to get the engine out. try in whatever order you like. start with the easiest

 

Today I pil

 

Today I pulled the starter out and the plug under the flywheel and tried to turn the motor with a large prybar with no luck. I am currently working to pull the transmission off. I Also rocked the car back and forth in fourth gear and the engine didn't even twitch. Very annoying.

 

Doesn't sound good, sounds like she may of seized up. Either way the trans needs to come off to tear apart the enging, so if its nothing in the clutch system, you'll already have that part done

 

I'm already looking into a new vehicle. I keep denying that maybe one of the seals may have given (which I'm sure many of us do). I will continue to tear it apart, but I am ready to let go.

 

Took the Transmission off and rocked the engine back and forth by the flywheel . It kinda rocked, but it didn't even attempt to make a full rotation. I have a feeling it could be a jammed seal. If it is, what is my best option af far as rebuilding?

 

why did you pull the transmission? and why would you think the car would roll when in gear?
a seal doesn't normally cause the engine to bind. it's probably a stat gear.
the time you spent pulling the trans, the engine could have just about been out. na engines are a dime a dozen. pull the engine. tear it apart. then, after realizing that most of it is probably not in reusable condition, buy another for like 200$
there are measures you can take to figuring out if a used engine is worthy of being installed, without tearing anything apart.

 

but now that you have the transmission out, when you reinstall the engine, reinstall them as a unit.
cuz that input shaft is a tight fit to the pilot and disc. may as well use the fact that you removed it to some advantage

 

I'd say take the exaust off and look inside, see if you can see if a apex seal is wedged.
Or just pull the motor out and disassemble, you have access to all the tools apparantley, so why not?

 

He pulled it to eliminate a variable, i would've done the same thing because its cheaper hoping and checking that is was the transmission than the engine itself

 

I checked mine through a spark plug hole, but I had a little camera I could stick in it.......


Edit: OP....without looking it up....your name is ostrich if I remember correctly?

 

Next step is pulling the motor. c:

 

And @Phearthe-Rx7, yes my username means ostrich.

 

The way I see it, either way, rather I get a new engine or rebuild this one, I will need to pull the engine and transmission out, and tear down that old Motor. That is my short term goal at the time. As for my long term goal, I honestly do not know if it's worth the rebuild, or if I should get a used Motor. If what @welfare said about getting reliable used Motor for $200 well than hot dog, I'm gonna do that. However I have not seen one for that price, and if I find one, I do not know how I can tell it's internal condition without taking it apart like he said.

 

Roll the dice man, you buy a used one it could be bad from the get go, or it could pop sooner than you hope. You rebuild it yourself and get it running, it still could pop again than your really pissed off.

If it were me, it costs nothing to tear the old motor apart, and measure everything. You may be able to rebuild it fairly cheap if everythings in spec, but it may cost a couple grand to rebuild if its not in spec.

Like i said, costs nothing to tear it apart and find out, gives you experience, and since its a school shop, would be an experience for everyone in your class

 

There's like 7 people that I actually work with, rest of the kids don't do much. I intend to tear it out of the car tomorrow though. I am guessing my FSM will have all the measurements.

I really appreciate the help guys. A lot. It's difficult being a senior in a magnet high-school very far away from home, about to go to college, and your daily driver that you take such good care of decides to quit on you. Very stressful with all this academic stuff going on. I will tear it all apart and take any recommendations yall have for me.

 

Except that's exactly what mine did when it threw a seal. I laid on it so hard with a breaker bar and pipe I bent one of the dowel pins. Either that or it bent when the seal jammed it. Just a note for when you are doing the rebuild.

 

Don't feel bad, i just compression checked my 88 n/a with 102K on the clock and i got 70psi on the front rotor on all 3 faces. Didn't even check the rear because i knew it'd probably be worse.....

So i guess its time i tore apart the spare i have and do some measureing of the hardseals and get it rebuilt and ready to drop in when my original goes on me

 

well, there really wasn't any indication of a transmission issue though, was there?

 

well if you are going to rebuild it,then just hold off on buying parts until you disassemble it and find out what you need.

 

if the input bearing kablamed it could've seized up the input shaft in the trans, therefore giving the same symptoms.