Charged the battery and it still wont crank

 

Does the car have the factory alarm?

 

No it doesnt.
I may take the car to a shop, just talked to that guy.. im a real dumbass when it comes to electrical problems.
It cant be the ecu ground i think, the engine has only 2000 kilometers on it and has sat in a dry garage for 4 years

 

If the starter doesn't activate w/key to on then you need to check if the wipers work w/key to on. If they don't then the Main fuse is likely blown. If the wipers work then you need to find a plug near the trailing coil which has a thick Black/Green wire and a similar gauged Black/Blue wire. W/key to start the Black/Blue wire should have at least 8 to 9 volts.

 

ok
i will check it tomorrow when im back there

 

On your car the Ignition Switch powers the Black/Blue wire which is jumpered to the thick Black/Green wire which then runs to the Interlock Switch which w/the key to start and clutch pedal depressed powers the Black/Red wire which triggers the starter solenoid. So, just follow the process through each wire and you'll find your problem.

 

Is this the right plug? Only one i found what has black/blue and black/green wires
Those wires didnt show any voltage
Wipers work, the starter also works for half a second or so, shown in the video

 

If you rotated the alternator pulley by hand (using a socket wrench) does it rotate the main pulley freely or is it very hard to rotate?

If it's easy to rotate then find the Black/Red wire connected to the starter solenoid and w/the car in neutral jumper voltage to this wire from the battery and the starter should activate and turn over much more than in your video. Does it do this?

 

No i cant turn the main pulley

 

If the main pulley does not turn then there is something going on within the engine preventing it from rotating as it should rotate fairly easily.

 

Yeah i figured it out. Damn. the oil buzzer only turns on when the oil level is low?

 

normally the oil buzzer comes on when the oil level is near critical, about 1-1.5 quarts left in the pan.

but commonly the wire is broken to the oil level sender preventing it from grounding out, meaning no buzzer or any sort of low oil warning.

 

I was never low of oil, thats for sure. But maybe there wasnt any pressure afterall.. then im fukd. Gonna remove plugs tomorrow and try to turn it.

Thanks for help everyone

 

Took out the plugs, loosened all the belts, and the pulley didnt move to any direction. Strange, never heard of a oilpump failure. And it ran like 20 kilometers like that. Oil was changed 700 km ago. Just broke it in.
Really mad at myself. Hope i can drive it next year

 

so the engine was rebuilt 700km ago? then pay close attention while tearing the engine apart, but to be up front don't be too hopeful. a seized rotary engine usually will have quite a bit of damage and fairly low amount of usable parts if it did really starve of oil.

main thing to check is to be sure the oil pump key is still in place, it slips out very easily and allows the pump gear to spin freely on the shaft but still turn somewhat for a delayed failure.

 

the engine was rebuild 2200 km ago. changed the oil 700 km ago.. without oil pressure its probably dead.
after a few days i possibly can take the front iron away and take a look.. lost hope already..
i have a spare s4 engine what is almost complete but that means my other car will never be driving again most likely

 

the woodruff key from the e-shaft was gone, i mean it was not on the oilpan and it didnt fall out anywhere... how is this possible?
thank god the electric MOP worked, it saved me one housing 2 rotors and a front iron...