psyaddict

Hi!
yesterday i started my car, ran fine, at some point the oil pressure gauge died, i knew it wasnt because of no oil pressure and continued. went to a supermarket, came back, started the car and after like 10 meters the car shut down, temperature gauge maxed out and didnt start anymore. left it there for a night, checked everything i could. started the car and it ran again, oil pressure gauge still not working( checked the connection). went to garage to fix my alloys, after the car had cooled down, drove to home and in the middle of traffic the car died again, temp gauge on max. friend towed me back and at that time i had the warning lights on, the temp. gauge was moving in the same rhytm and the boost gauge was twitching also.
what could be the problem and where to look at first?
im not really good at electrics

psyaddict

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrqfY...BT2WgUEm8kmvw]

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is a block or group of ground wires that is mounted to the driver side shock tower just underneath the trailing coil. The ground plug of about six ground wires plugs into a metal bracket bolted to the shock tower. If you remove the metal bracket and clean the contact point between the fender sheet metal and the metal bracket and then clean the plug of ground wires chances are your problems will be fixed. This should be rather easy to do.

psyaddict

it seems my car does not have these 6 wires, i cleaned any ground wires i found, started the car, it ran, took a test drive, but the oil pressure gauge does not still work, showed something at first but then went back to zero. i think the problem is still there...

Recently i installed front and rear strut bars, it made the car much more stiff and shaky, it might have shook something off...

psyaddict

Under the trailing coil

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pic #6 illustrates what I'm talking about. In the pic you provided it appears this block was removed and the associated wires were grouped together and bolted to the fender. You need to redo this ground spot by cleaning it thoroughly. New bolt, sanding, dielectric grease, cleaning the thread in the fender for the bolt.

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm

psyaddict

i cleaned the connection again, also the main battery ground... car starts normally but still no oil pressure. maybe the gauge is just dead.
all other gauges act as they should.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Oil Pressure gauge has a Yellow/Red wire connected to it. If you ground this wire and turn the key to on the gauge needle should rise to the top to verify that the gauge is working (grounding the wire is just to check the operation of the gauge and continous grounding could damage the gauge). There is also a wire which splits off of this Y/R wire and is connected to a condenser which looks just like a small computer chip. The chip is bolted to the slave cylinder or somewhere close by. If this wire were accidentally grounding out it could cause issues. And the connection to the oil sensor might be iffy or the sensor could be shot as well.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not all FCs had the 6 pin ground junction, it's actually a rarity to see it there. most have that doubled up ring terminal and a capacitor bolted in the area for the ignition.

psyaddict

i tried the gauge, it rose but not to the max. im waiting for to rb oil pressure and temp. sensor adapter since the oil pressure sensor is through a turbo oil line(s4 n/a shortblock) i cleaned the chip looking ground already and nothing.
i noticed that my alt. belt is slipping,( black powder on the water pump) at least its eating the belt.
took a test drive and it shut off at 4k rpm. didnt start again. can a slippy alt. belt cause the engine to shut shut down at some rpm?
Gonna change the belt tomorrow and just ordered a dual alternator pulley.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the alternator voltage output drops too low then the engine will eventually die. You can measure the voltage output of the alternator to see what's going on there. The Black cable bolted to the alternator is the output wire.

And when the car dies leave the key to on and measure the Black/White wire at the four pin check connector near the leading coil. The wire w/key to on should read 12 volts.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would also check the black single pin 10gauge connector between the engine bay fuse box and the battery. if there is corrosion in the connector it it may cause low voltage issues to the rest of the car but it may crank normally. the alternator wire should maintain voltage to that fuse box but it could have numerous wiring problems.

psyaddict

this is only when the engine shuts down? or i can turn it off and measure after?
I will check it tomorrow when i get back to garage.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When the engine shuts down, if that were to occur, do not turn the key to off, but leave it in the on position to check the B/W wire. You would do this because you want to eliminate the Main Relay as a possible cause.

psyaddict

Cleaned all the grounds i could without removing lim with sand paper and contact cleaner. Started the car, let it reach to operating temperature, revved it a few times up to 5k rpm, and it died again. Measured 12.11 volts from the alt. Wire



It seems it shuts down when the engine has reached normal operating temperature, the e-fan didnt have a chance to turn on. I think it hasnt turned on since the problem started(not 100% sure) I can take the car to an auto-electrician next week, but they have never worked with a 7. Just one car driving beside mines...

satch

iTrader: (1)

Does it die if you just let it idle? Did you measure the voltage output w/the engine running. If so then 12.1 volts is the bare minimum. Did you measure the B/W wire as suggested. This is rather important to do. Did you check the wire which Rotary Evolution suggested?

psyaddict

I have 2 yellow wires coming from the alternator... Didnt measure tge voltage when it was running.. and it doesnt crank anymore just a little bit..
The 10gauge wire is under the 100amp fuse? It should come off when pulled?i just discovered that The 100A fuse is glued together, cant pull it off

satch

iTrader: (1)

Is your car an S4 or S5?

The Main fuse should be screwed into place.

Measuring the output voltage w/the car off is not what you need to do.

Did you measure the voltage as suggested after the car dies leaving the key to on at the check connector.

The 10 gauge wire is also screwed on.

And does the car die just idling?

psyaddict

S5 t2 with s4 shortblock. All emissions removed-many loose wires under the hood... Cleaned the 2 fat wires under the main fuse, grounded b/w wire accidentelly and headlights came on.
I will measure the alt. Voltage again when the engine is willing to start.
Meanwhile cleaning the starter ground and one ground wire what i discovered attached to the gearbox

satch

iTrader: (1)

And does the car die just idling?

And an S5 has a three pin check connector near the lead coil and it is the B/W wire in this connector which needs to be measured after the car dies while leaving the key to on.

psyaddict

I will try idleing and then check that wire.. my e fan is connected to it so it works only when key is on

satch

iTrader: (1)

Whether that wire has voltage or not after the car dies and the key left alone tells you whether the Main Relay is working properly. If the relay shuts off then so does the ECU, coils and injectors.

psyaddict

The engine wont crank anymore, the gauge cluster lights go dark completely, and i can see the water temp. Gauge rising a little.
I measured the wire and it was 12.04 volts but i couldnt turn the engine on anymore

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your battery is probably too low and needs recharging or the car needs a jump start.

psyaddict

Could be yes, theres a indicator light on the battery, it says its full, but it cant be trusted i guess.