hey guys, as some of u may know i just got my rebuilt running. but for some reason it makes some crazy poping sounds. it monsterously loud and it sounds like its back firing. i do have a straight pipe so i was expect some backfire, but this much is really abnormal. on top of that my engine shakes like no other. it moves around like crazy when idling or rev. which brings me to my next point, it doesnt really idle. it revs between 1k-1.5 and bounces back and forth continously. during this time the engine shakes alot. at first i tried adjusting the CAS wit my timing light, and i lined it up and everything but the CAS looks way advanced. and when i move it around, it doesnt seem to do anything. i just went through the vacuum hoses wit some carbcleaner. and i managed to fixed some of that. i also adjusted the TPS and set it to 1k ohm. i am going to try to restab the CAS tomorrow. i think i might have mis-aligned the dimple. anyways, if any of you guys have any idea wat the heck is going on, your comments are very appreciated. thanks in advance!
-brian

 

Get the ignition timing taken care of first before looking for other problems.


-Ted

 

Also a clogged/dirty injector is a possibility.

 

im sure its not the injectors because i just sent them out to be cleaned. and about the timing, i tried to set but it looks really off. I am going to try and restab it today to see if it does anything.

 

yeah... uhh.... maybe you should try a timing light!!!!

 

i did use a timing light. but when i move the CAS around it doesnt bring the little yellow dot close enough to the pin for some reason. and in order to get it even relatively close i have to turn it all the way. which is one of the reason that it looks so strange. shouldnt the CAS be adjust so that its nearly dead in the center, rather than way off to one side?

 

bump

 

No, not necessarily...
BUT, you need to do this when the engine is completely warmed up.
If the engine is "cold", the water thermo sensor tells the stock ECU to change the ignition timing.
If you can see the marks and they are close to the pin, that's a good start.


-Ted

 

im just wondering did u take the CAS out to make it a short block for the guy or what cause it can be 180 degrees off and it may run like **** cause off the way rotaries fire. thats my guess.

 

i did the timing when my car was completely warmed up. the temp gauge inside was right about the middle.
im not really sure what u mean by 180, because when i look at it, it doesnt look like it can go in any other way. right now, the shitty running im pretty sure is due to timing issues, but im have some trouble wit it. would this also affect my very very shitty idle. it idles at 1-1.5k and it bounces back and fourth. is this just normal for a rebuilt engine or wat, because i read that they are spose to have rough idles anyways, but im not sure if it is suppose to be this rough...i might just get a mechanic to look at it if i cant figure this out.

 

180-degrees CAS rotation or 180-degrees engine rotation?
If it's 180-degrees CAS rotation, it doesn't (*#$#@ matter; the CAS spins 1/2 speed relative to the engine, so the engine spins twice before the CAS spins once.
If the CAS was 180-degrees out of rotation, it would still work perfectly fine.



-Ted

 

Did you jumper off the green harness near the coils? I've been told this needs to be done so the ECU does not try and alter the timing while your turning the CAS.

 

ill give that a shot and get back to you guys

 

You might want to try to take out the cas. Turn the 'crank pulley' to line up with the yellow mark then lined up the cas then put it in? Just a suggestion..

 

i was actually gonna do that. then i realized i had to take the fan off. and when i looked at it i just got lazy. ill do it tomorrow if i get around to it. haha.

 

so i just installed a new fuel filter, because i didnt get around doing it before. i started the car up as usual and since its a little chilly outside the did its cold start thing. rev up to 3k but the thing is, it didnt drop back down. so i got a little suspicous. i get out of the car, and i figure i would to do the ignition timing, because i just set the crank pulley up and everything. so i get to it, and before i knew it. there was plenty of smoking comming out of the passenger by the LIM. i was pretty damned scared, i didnt want my newly rebuilt engine to catch on fire. after doing some thinking, i remeber i was down there looking for leaks when i was installing the fuel filter. i remeber that my hands had some oil and gasoline on them when i touch all the stuff around the LIM. Could this be the reason for the smokage? i also noticed a coolant leak that seemed to be dripping down the tranny by the LIM. i think it might be because of the o rings in the LIM. im pretty sure its not because of the 90 degree hose under the UIM because i just replaced that and made sure it was secure. right now, im too damn scared to start it up again. so ill wait for some replies. thanks.

 

When setting the timing the engine needs to be HOT AND the rpms NEED to be under 900rpm. Somewhere around 1000 and 1100rpm the ECU automatically advances the ignition timing to a position Clear Outta Site (almost). So get the rpms down to a reasonable setting. Try 750 for starters.

Yes, oil and or gasoline on a hot manifold will cause smoking.

 

turns out that the smoke was comming from burnt coolant. i just looked under there and its leaking from the LIM meaning the o rings arent there... so i gotta put that junk in. once i get it fix ill get back you guys.

 

Hey im having the same problem with my idle right now, New rebuilt engine, and im running a stright pipe, its poping on me and idles really rough between 1k-1.5k. ALso i have to hold down the gas until it warms up. let me know if you fix the idle on your car man.

 

Like it was said earlier, shoot your ignition timing when the engine is fully warmed up.
If the marks all line up, then it's not ignition timing.
A fresh rebuilt will NOT idle very well.
Get a few hundred miles on the engine first before worrying about the idle.


-Ted

 

can you point anyone to a link that would help some of us get ignition timing right on the first try? my crank marks are like.. gone..

i know how to find TDC but where do i go from there?

links for stabbing CAS?

 

Stabbing the cas is easy. Like said earlier, line up the pully mark with the needle on the front cover. Then remove the bolt that holds down the cas, it should just come out, now put it back in so that its right in the middle of the left and right movement.

heh, i've never actually done this, but im pretty sure this is how its done.

 

you gotta make sure to line up the little dimple on the CAS with the "pointer" thingy. ull know wat im talking about when u look at it. its obvious.