bought rebuilt engine from atkins rotary about a year ago and put it in my 88 conv. n/a.been doing great for that year other than my egi going out,, got that fixed and ran good. about 3 months ago car started to have problem around 3500 to 4000 rpm, it just would lag for a sec and sputter but you let off gas alittle and ease the gas after that it was fine but every time you hit 3500-4500 rpm it did that. well then it got really cold and it would act like it wanted to start but would not, i took it to a dealership and it was in ashland kentucky, i live in huntington W.V.,, i asked them to find out what was wrong and get it running, well 2 days after that it started for them, i went and thay said they did nothing it just started running and starting right again, well it still lagged at mid rpms, right when powerband should kick in, the next day when i get up to go to work my car doesn't start, so i paid a total of 500.00 dollars to mazda for nothing, some times it will start and then you have to wait a day or 2 and it'll start, then you turn it off and try again and nothing, so i looked and went over everything myself and the secondary injector connecter on the second rotor was off, the metal clip that holds them on came off,,,plugged it back in and tried to see if i could get it to start and had to wait a couple of days and finally, by luck it started and ran like a dream i fell in love all over again, it had no lag and was awesome, so the reason for my lag at mid rpms was my injector not working got that fixed, turned it off and tried to start it again and nothing, i started to check for problems in the egi again, its good, i buy a new circuit opening relay(fuel pump relay) hopeing that was it because no fuel was getting to it after i checked the fuel line, i also replaced the fuel filter still no fuel, yet sometimes i can still get it to start and run incredible no probs at all, through all the gears and at all rpms. where should i go from here i guess is my question???? i would greatly appreciate any help or response at all, am i on the right track ??




thank you very much,
mike

 

Paragraphs and periods are nice.

 

Here is what the FAQ for FC's says about ur 3500 to 4000 rpm problem prolly is.

I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. Some people have also claimed replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped. If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.

 

hope that helps

 

he fixed the 3800 RPM hesitation but still has a fuel pump circuit problem, assuming that is the real issue, most of the time a 7 won't start is because of too much fuel not no fuel.

 

I got that part fixed, it wasn't the grounds it was the seconary injectors.I am haveing trouble locating the relay or circuit that is not kicking my fuel pump on, and i have replaced one relay, the one under the dash on driverside.I have also checked the air flow meter.

 

are you sure it is the circuit and not the fuel pump itself? try pulling the cargo carpet up and checking the ground circuit and see if there is power getting to the pump while cranking.

 

could you take a pic of the open close circuit relay thing? i've been looking for that one, just dont know exactly what it looks like.

 

thats the thing no power yet sometimes there is otherwise it would not start ever, but sometimes it does just never when i'm checking anything its always one of the times i just try out of the blue, its got me confused, even when i try to ground it at the yellow turminal no power

 

i would check your fuses for internal cracks or corroded conections, maybe swap the EGI fuses with some of your others or replace them with new ones. could be a faulty ignition switch also.

 

thank you thats what i've been thinking but wasn't sure, i guess i'll have to look at that, but when i grounded the fuel pump with the yellow connector wouldn it still pump fuel??

 

it should unless you have a problem in the circuit closer to the battery such as the fuse box.

 

well i checked those fuses and they all look ok and are not corroded, do you know of any other computer that controls the fuel?? i appreciate the help very much, the dealership here said it was a circuit but it started working when it was there but they didn't tell them to me

 

just because the fuses look ok doesn't mean they are, old fuses can often crack and appear to be fine and cause intermittent connections which is what you described and why i suggested swapping them with some others or replacing them. you can pop the glass covers off them but they will likely break, wiggle the connections and see if there is any breaks in them but this still does not guarantee there isn't a crack you can't see deeper in the casing.

 

true, i'll look at that and have a closer look to make sure,

 

do you know if not haveing that injector plugged in could have damaged a seperate circuit or comp.

 

i cant see that it would from the diagrams for it but i'm not sure

 

nah, shouldn't have hurt anything.