Engine Replacing Question
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Engine Replacing Question
hey guys, im new to the forum here. im about to get a 88 turbo II, but it needs some work. the compression is at low 60 and the owner says it runs for a bit, but cant hold it for long and cuts off. he says i would need a new engine. i been looking and wondering, anyway its hard to find a good turboII engine, could i use a regular n/a engine, but put the throttle, exhaust, and everything else on it. would it work ok? i tried to search it, and the only difference i found was that n/a rotary had different compression ratios. i dont remember them exactly, but remember they are different. but i just need to know, so i can try to look for a engine for it.
you guys think this car is worth 810.. n i would need to tow it back from nc to va? thanks guys.
sorry, but i didnt know where to put it, so i put it in the single turbo and in the fc sections. sorry if i did it wrong.
you guys think this car is worth 810.. n i would need to tow it back from nc to va? thanks guys.
sorry, but i didnt know where to put it, so i put it in the single turbo and in the fc sections. sorry if i did it wrong.
#3
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The nonturbo and turbo rotaries share one internal part: the eccentric shaft. The intake port layout differs greatly, the exhaust ports differ slightly, the compression ratio differs, the intake manifolds differ, etc.
IT is possible to hack turbo parts onto a nonturbo block, but it won't last long in most cases.
It is the exception, rather than the rule, to find a quality used rotary unless it's recently been rebuilt. ALl of these engines are now 15+ years old, and they all need to be gone through. Furthermore, jspec and junkyard engines have almost always sat for extended periods of time since they last ran consistently, which is a big no-no for rotary engines. The seals tend to stick inside when they are allowed to sit.
Most people would elect to do the job right, and go through the car from the ground up, including a rebuild. This includes other maintenance like plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned injectors, pulsation dampner, oil cooler lines, waterpump, thermostat, etc. etc.
IT is possible to hack turbo parts onto a nonturbo block, but it won't last long in most cases.
It is the exception, rather than the rule, to find a quality used rotary unless it's recently been rebuilt. ALl of these engines are now 15+ years old, and they all need to be gone through. Furthermore, jspec and junkyard engines have almost always sat for extended periods of time since they last ran consistently, which is a big no-no for rotary engines. The seals tend to stick inside when they are allowed to sit.
Most people would elect to do the job right, and go through the car from the ground up, including a rebuild. This includes other maintenance like plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned injectors, pulsation dampner, oil cooler lines, waterpump, thermostat, etc. etc.
#4
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so u wouldnt suggest to get a jspec motor.. but instead to rebuild it? im tring ot find all the gaskets i would need right now n im still searching on any how-to on the rebuild so far non. just found some pics of people doin the rebuild.
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Definitely rebuild. Even if you get a j-spec it is a good idea to rebuild it using fresh parts. Check out the link below; it s to Mazda's factory Service Manual which is now in public domain.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
Read up with some info found in this thread.
Search. And welcome to the rotary.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
Read up with some info found in this thread.
Search. And welcome to the rotary.
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#9
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
The online Factory Service Manual shows how to rebuild an engine. Even the Haynes manual shows how.
#10
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Originally Posted by AznXstazy
ya so that... alot of pieces inside the engine to take out... idk if i could trust myself to take it out n put it all back together. this is my first time working on a rotary. i can trust myself on a piston setup though. im looking to rebuild the block now... i would need all the gaskets correct? no way i could reuse some of them?
I suggest you SHOULD replace the apex seals. See the mazdatrix.com web site for the general price of apex seals. Also you have to replace the *o*rings. See this site http://www.mazdatrix.com/b2.htm for a general price.
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