scathcart

Seeing as the Haynes Manual sucks for this, and my brother needed some how-to advice, I have gone ahead and written an engine removal write-up.
Its pretty comprehensive and complete, and should be worth a read for those just attempting it for the first time.
The write-up is Specific to NA Stick cars, but I can do one for Automatic or Turbo cars if anyone wishes.
I can send the write-up via email (45K), just post here or send me an email @
shutup_billy@hotmail.com

I only ask that those who use it/read it make sure to report any errors / missed steps to me. As well, those experienced with engine removal could read it and make sure everything is there.

Sean Cathcart

If this is popular, I will take pictures during my next R&R.

scathcart

Rico05, for your problem:

First you must remove the broken studs. Do this by using an EZ-out. Drill straight into the broken fastener and then thread the EZout into the broken stud. It is important you drill straight in. Use a quality drill bit and make sure you don't snap it off in your drilled hole (that would be a large problem).

Not to go against the advice of the legendary Hailers, but I wouldn't use a heli coil. You are already having to tap a new thread into the stripped housings, why not just tap to the next larger size bolt/stud? This will hold much better than a Heli-coil, and it is cheaper and easier.
Heli coils really should only be used when the original fastener must be retained, such as a sparkplug or sending unit hole.

Good luck with your stud fix, it should take you about an hour.

Sean Cathcart
Your Big Brother

the krza

im about to pull my engine, but its a TII.
if u can do one for me id really appreciate it!

rottenpunk@beer.com

scathcart

can you give me a day?

rico05

Man, I don't care if I EVER get a TII, you will always be my BIG bro!! Thanks Sean, after reading your write up, I feel really confident that I can do this. I'm gonna do everything except actually pull out the engine this weekend, and pull it next weekend (hopefully ), so that I have less rental fees on the engine hoist. Ok, 1 more thing to ask. Here is my shopping list for this, does it sound good?
-Coolant
-Oil
-Oil Filter
-Fuel Filter
-EZ-Out
-Thread Lock
-2 New, Non broken off bolts
-A few feet of vaccuum hose, just in case

Any suggestions?

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

I'm about to pull at TII also could you hook me up with
that write up also?

arpus21@hotmail.com

thanks

rico05

Lemmie just say, his write up is the real deal. Everything from start to finnish is there. He has the experienxe, and the ability to give a great "How To". He even sets up time for you to throw tantrums and have beer breaks!! I can't say Thank You enough Sean. This has really made my year!!!!

gottadrive

I would like a copy on the write up for the N/A's
sdelong@saucontech.com

scathcart

Gald you enjoyed it so much. I re-read over it and remembered one thing I forgot. Upon removing the twin precats, there is something else you have to remove: the split air line. It allows air pump air from the ACV into the cat. It attaches to the engine via two 8mm (IIRC) nuts. You have to take this off as well. Other than that, the list should be complete.
I have added this to the write-up and can re-send you the new version, but really, you'll figure it out as soon as you go to remove the exhaust.
As for your list, Rico, I can't really think of anything else you might need. You *can* reuse the coolant and oil, but obviously it is better to get new stuff.
If anything pops into my head, I'll be sure to let you know. Sorry I don't have pics with my write-up.
Sean Cathcart

scathcart

OH! a tap for your new bolts if you don't already have one!

As for the TII guys, I am currently modifying the list, and will have it ready to be sent out within a couple hours.
Sean Cathcart

dcamcoTII

I'll take one, I'm about to swap out my T2's motor.
dcamco@houston.rr.com
Thanks alot, I've been looking for one of these.

rico05

Here is his write up!!

Ok, first off, this is how I would do it. This is an important point to remember, b/c there will be certain disagreement between myself and others. Some things others will do (Haynes says to remove the oil cooler, it is a ******* waste of time IMO), whereas some things others won’t (such as remove the radiator and the battery). I have done 5 engine swaps now:
-(1) 1988 S4 NA
-(1) 1990 S5 NA
-(2) 1990 S5 TII’s
-(1) 1991 TII
And this listed procedure allows me to get the job done most effectively. If you feel you can skip some parts of this list to go faster, by all means go ahead, but taking your time during an engine removal really should be an ideal to follow.
As a counterpart, if there is anything else you feel you should remove b/c you are worried about damaging it (air pump, alternator maybe?), by all means, label it and do it.

A few other points I would like to stress:
- Label EVERYTHING you remove. If you take apart a vacuum hose, label the nipple with a piece of masking tape with a letter and the hose end you take off with masking tape and a letter. Use a permanent pen, not a ball point one. (the fuel line labels tend to come off since gas dissolves glue, so make sure you take extra care with those ones)
-The Haynes Manual sucks for engine removal. Just use it for picture reference.
-You’ll want some kind of engine hoist. You can rent them VERY reasonably. Don’t even think about lifting the engine out without some kind of lift. I don’t care if you’re huge. I did my first R&R using a 4x4” beam through a hole in the ceiling to get into the attic above the garage, and chained up a 1 ton pull-along winch. Was a little slow, but worked great. I have since bought a 4000 lb engine lift.
-You do not need an engine leveller, but they help. If the rental comes with one, use it, if not, don’t pay extra.
-Have a place to set the engine. It will not sit flat, and setting it on the oil pan may damage it. If you do not have an engine stand, mock up a square of 2”x4” square to go around the bolts on the oil pan.
-Make sure you can remember where the bolts go. What I do is finger thread a bolt back into the hole it came out of. Example: After removing the hood, I finger thread the four 10mm bolts that came off it back into the holes in the hood. You WILL forget where some bolts go, so do this, or label them (more time consuming).
-When in doubt, seek help. When completely overwhelmed, take it to a mechanic.
- If you have access to a covered, cement floored garage, use it at any cost.
- I cannot stress this enough: TAKE YOUR TIME. Take notes if you need to, draw diagrams, and label where things came apart.
This is by no means hard. Really, all that is need is:
-a good set of metric sockets. Commonly used sizes are: 6mm, 8 mm, 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 22mm.
-a good set of metric wrenches with the same sizes as above
-breaker bar, or a piece of pipe for your socket driver
-socket extensions
-set of screwdrivers
-hammer
-needle nose pliers
-channel lock pliers
-chain and u-bolts to attach them with (or bolts to bolt the chain in a loop).
-masking tape and permanent pen
-towels, rags, hand cleaner
-patience!
-Good vocabulary of swear words, and something for relaxation breaks, coffee, beer, or cigarettes if you smoke.
-A friend for some steps.
Of course, air tools, a torque wrench, etc. are all nice, but really, unnecessary.



*The below list is specific to N/A Standard cars. For TII and Automatic changes to the list, email me at shutup_billy@hotmail.com. As well, anyone finding missing steps or errors can email me as well. After all, this does all go by memory!

 Relieve the fuel system pressure by disconnecting the fuel pump at the rear of the car while the engine is running (if the engine runs…. If not, just crank it over with the wiring disconnected)
 Spray some form of penetrant on the exhaust bolts of the downpipe. You’ll love yourself later.
 Disconnect the windshield washer sprayer hose from the hood. This is found on the passenger side rear of the engine. Label the line you take apart.
 Remove the hood. Scroll around the mounting arms so you can realign it with something sharp, like a scribe or a pin. With some help from a friend to hold the hood, undo, the four bolts (10mm I think). I put towels under the corners of the hood in case it slides back. Put the hood on towels somewhere.
 Cover the fenders with old towels or something. Wear pants that don’t have buttons or zippers (sweat pants); they’ll scratch the paint.
 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable.
 Remove the two bolts that hold down the battery. Remove the battery and the plastic around it. You will see a plastic square when everything it removed. If you brush away all of the dust and dirt, you’ll see 4 bolts. The may be rusty, but you can remove them. You’ll need some extensions to get them.
 Remove the 4 fan nuts. Use a box end wrench. Set the fan in the fan shroud and put the nuts back on the studs (you don’t need to take out the fan)
 Remove the intake plastic up to the throttle body. This includes the two bolts on the front of the car for the ram-intake plastic piece, the air filter and AFM assembly, and the clamp going up to the throttle body. Label the vacuum lines from the air pump, etc. that you pull out of the intake plastic piping.
 Jack up the car and put jack stands under the frame.
 If you still have the stock belly pans, remove them and replace their bolts. These bolts will be rusty and may break. Don’t worry about it; I buy new ones.
 Remove the radiator cap (or bleed screw on S4 cars), and then using a container that can hold at least 8L, drain the fluid from the middle of the radiator below the car, from the plastic star-headed screw in the bottom of the radiator. I recommend replacing this screw, but it is not necessary. Hint: start unscrewing the screw and get it loose with the screwdriver, then unscrew it by hand. Let the plug just fall into the container and fish it out later.
 Using channel lock pliers on the clamps, take the radiator hoses off of the engine block. Some twisting by hand on the hoses will be necessary to get the bonded rubber off of the aluminum. If this does not work, you can cut the hoses off, but count on buying replacements (which is never a bad idea).
 Take off the lower heater core clamp and hose, where the lower radiator meets the radiator. It is a small hose, maybe an inch in diameter, and usually the rusted iron is bonded to the rubber. Good Luck!
 Label and remove the overflow coolant line. Set it out of the way.
 Label and disconnect the coolant level sensor connector at the middle of the top of the radiator.
 On S4 cars, from beneath the car, label and remove the two wires from the coolant sensor at the bottom drivers side of the radiator.
 Remove the four bolts holding on the radiator, and then lift the radiator up and out. Set it somewhere front-end down, and leave the fan in the shroud for the reinstall.
 Remove all of the belts, and label them as you take them off.
 Label and remove the plug wires.
 Label and remove the two fuel lines. They run parallel to each other, and are located coming off of the fuel filter in the rear drivers side area. These are hard to get off their nipples, I use channel-lock pliers on the hose itself.
 Unbolt the throttle cable/ cruise control cable. I normally remove where they connect to the throttle cam (careful! The plastic connector on the cruise control has a tendency to snap and break), and then remove the mount that holds them on. I then swing the entire assembly towards the front of the car, and lift the engine out of the hole it makes, but you can disassemble the mount for the cables and separate the two if you want to realign the system later. This is really only an issue if you have cruise control.
 If you have A/C, remove the four bolts that mount the compressor. These are TOUGH to get out.
 If you have p/s, remove the 5 nuts and bolts that mount the pump to the block. These are Tough to get out as well.
 Wiggle the bracket out of the way, towards the front of the car and hang the pump and compressor with some cord or wire. This will take some time, and I usually get a friend to help me. Do not be afraid by any means to use some force (ok, a LOT of force) to push the bracket against the shock tower. I push as hard as I can to get the bracket off those god-damn studs.
You will swear at this point.
 Grab a coffee or a beer. I recommend some good beer. “You can have any beer you want in this place, as long as it’s a corona. ” Clean your hands, and stare at disdain at you poor car. Swear a few times, and kick the crap out of something small and inanimate, like that old a/c condenser.
 On the passenger side of the car, on the interior, remove the screws and the plastic scuff plates. Peel back the carpet and push it out of the way. Use something to prop the carpet out of your way. Again, don’t be afraid to push hard on the carpet.
 Remove the four nuts that hold the cover over the ECU. Then, remove the connectors from the ECU. Also, there may be some connectors up the side of the car. If you have girly hands, reach up there and disconnect them. If not, find someone who does have girly hands. This connectors only fit one way, do not worry about labelling them.
 Label the two hoses connected to the canister and then remove the charcoal canister behind the right rear shock tower. If you have CSS (cold start assist), remove this container and block that bitch off. Don’t reinstall this. This was the stupidest idea Mazda ever had.
 Pull the ECU wires slowly out through the firewall. Get that friend to help you by feeding them through on the inside. It is not necessary to remove the Cruise control unit or the ABS to do this. Trust me on that one. Disconnect any connection of the ECU wires to the engine bay (such as the connector to the vacuum/pressure sensor and afm), and tape the wires to the top of the engine.
 Label and disconnect the vacuum line leading to the vacuum/pressure sonsor.
 Drain the engine oil and reinstall the drain plug.
 Label and disconnect the wiring from the driver’s side of the engine. This begins with the alternator (a bolt and a connector), and moves down the side of the engine, eventually ending up at the starter. The wiring disconnects from the starter via a single bolt. I believe the oil level sending unit and oil temp unit also plug into this harness, label and disconnect them as well.
 Remove the coolant hose below the oil filter, leading up to the heater core in the firewall. Avoid using pliers to clamp onto the hose to twist it off, the nipples bend and crush shut VERY easily.
 Separate the vacuum line for the power brake booster somewhere along the rear of the engine. There are a few places you can do this.
 Remove the starter. The top bolt for the starter has a nut on the other end, and a grounding wire is attached to this nut. Make sure you put a wrench on both sides or you’ll spin it forever.
 Unbolt the twin pre-cat mid pipe and remove it. This will be difficult, since the bolts will be rusted on. Use plenty of penetrant, a good breaker bar, and a torch if necessary. Your arms will be tired after this, so take another break and maybe have another beer/coffee/smoke. Swear some more, and throw some rocks at a pile of dirt. Throw a decently-sized tantrum.
 Unbolt the oil cooler lines. Use two wrenches of the proper size on the front, and a socket on the back. You should be using new crush washers anyway upon reinstallation, but you can reuse the old ones. Elastic a plastic (that rhymes!) bag over the ends of the lines to prevent oil from leaking onto the floor.
 Bolt on the chains to the OEM engine lift mounts. Use good chain and good u-bolts. The rear engine lift connecting may bolt on through the tranny. Make sure to fix this first, so that the bolt is not connecting the tranny to the block.
 Set up the lift and take the slack out of the middle of the chain. Just barely lift on the engine.
 Unbolt the three bolts that go through the oil pan on the passenger side engine mount.
 Unbolt the single bolt that from the cross member to the drivers side engine mount.
 Unbolt the remaining 5 bolts holding the transmission to the engine. This may take some time as you won’t get many degrees to turn the wrench, be patient!
 Put a block of wood on a jack and support the transmission.
 Make sure there is nothing still connected to the engine, and begin be lifting the engine slightly. Pull the engine out of the transmission. It may take some wiggling, but it will pop forward. The pop forward is why I suggest to remove the rad, as this pop can send the engine right through the rad core.
 Lift the engine up and out of the car, being wary of anything still connected. I pull it out through the loop created by the cruise control and throttle cables connected together, but as stated earlier, you can disconnect them. It may be necessary to lower the car off of the jack stands in order to get enough clearance for the lift to get the engine over the car.
 Lower the block onto the engine stand or the wooden blocks and take a break to feel satisfied with yourself. Might I suggest sex/masturbation to heighten this feeling. That, and more beer.

Reinstallation is the reversal of the above steps.
Wiggling the engine into the tranny may take some persistence, but it is possible. Use that friend!


Good luck!

Copyright 2002-04-17, Sean David Cathcart

scathcart

After this:
 Unbolt the split air pipe from the ACV. This is the pipe leading off the catalytic converter going to the passenger side of the intake manifold. It bolts on and off via two 8mm (I think!) nuts. You do not need a new gasket for this, I always re-use mine.

I will still send the Word versions, since you can't print these ones if people wish.
TII version done in 30 mins.

Sean Cathcart

scathcart

OK, TII version is done and sent to the above.
Eventually, I will be doing a complete write-up, including pictures and exact nut and bolt sizes, but I have to wait until my next R&R. I want at least one picture per step, so everything is good and clear.
Unfortunately, I am going away to work this summer for 4 months, and will be away. However, I will have about $14,000 to spend on my TII and buy an N/A daily driver when I get back. I will be doing an R&R on the N/A for sure, and will make sure to have bought a digital camera before then.

As well, I will make a list of all the great things to do while the engine is out like that, like a write-up of the p/s removal (with PICS!), I/C cleaning, Porting, fuel filter replacement.
Basically, all the free maintenance and free mods you can do with the engine out. Look for it in september, when I set up a webpage.

Sean Cathcart

Tree

I'll take a copy of the N/A instructions, I might as well get the TII since you have it. So I'll take both please.

eriksoj@cc.wwu.edu

Thanks!!

scathcart

Man, you're close enough that I could just drive down and give you a hand!
Emailed em to you.
You removing your engine anytime soon, gimme an email or PM if you want a hand (won't do it for you), we'll set something up.
Sean Cathcart

FC3AZ

please send me a copy.......
jahwarrior1981@yahoo.com

Thrasher

can you please send a copy of both versions to me?

zach@thrashin.net

scathcart

I apologize to all those who received empty emails or blank **** like that.
What can I say, hot mail sucks, and I'm a Moron.
If anyone who has emailed, PM'd, or posted here by now has not received a copy per request, please Email me or message here again.
Sean Cathcart

Samps

I'll wait for the one with pictures. Although with no power steering, AC, fan shroud, or battery up front. The job would be much easier.

Are you saying that you can leave the tranny in place, bolted up; and wiggle the motor into it? Christ; I had a hell of a time wiggling the tranny into the motor.

scathcart

Yep, Thats exactly what I am saying. It just takes some patience. Why would you drop the tranny if you don't need to? Its not any easier, and then you just have to wiggle the tranny into place while lying on your back. That tranny is ******* heavy, I like to be able to use the engine lift.

As for the pictured write=-up, expect it around Sept. For the removal, I will leave the a/c, p/s, all that crap on, and then do pictured write-ups of removing them with the engine out.

Yeah, my TII engine would be a little weird to do pictured of an R&R for. No p/s, a/c, ANY emissions, electric water pump, custom fuel lines, efan.
Doesn't exactly follow the same R&R steps.

Sean Cathcart

87GXLRX7

rob_rezza@hotmail.com ..... please send me a copy

scathcart

Hey hey hey, I gotta ask....
WHO DO YOU LOVE?

rico05

I sure love my big bro!! Just bumpin this to the top!!!!!

Thingol

While I am nowhere near my first swap (perhaps next summer, with luck, a TII or at least a street-ported S5 NA will be going into the vert....), I will not pass up the great offer, as I am sure these will come in handy in the future.

Please send both to crward@radford.edu

Thanks a lot!