hello.

been a long time since i was here, cause i sold my fc to my brother. but tomorrow i am going to pick up my "new" rx7.



it got broken engine so i have to pull it out of the car.

maybe i am a little blind. but i wasnt able to find a thread which tells me about pulling the engine (rx 7 turbo cabrio). (yes i used the search button )

i know how to get 4 zyl. engnies out of 4wd and fwd cars.

is there something special which i should know when removing the 13bt?

i pick up the car in 10 hours and will start removing the engine some hours later.

so if you got some infos which could help me. please don't bother to post them now.


thank a lot and greets from europe

martin

 

Search for FSM, Factory Service Manual. That book should tell you almost everything you will want to know about working on your rx-7. For everything that the FSM doesn't answer, the second gen technical section has covered it ten times. Read the archives, the facts, and don't forget to search! good luck.

 

Its easy..exactly the same as removing a piston motor...unbolt the motor mounts, disconnect all connectors from the harness take off ac compressor if you have one...leave its lines connected and leave it in the bay so you don't gotta get it recharged...and pull the motor.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...e_removal.html

 

wow thanks a lot. that was fast and alot of infos. i think i will leave the tranny in.

anyone have an estimated time for removing?


everything i needed. thanks!!!

 

There's is really nothing special about removing a rotary. You disconnect everything and pull it out.

The FSM's Engine chapter has instructions for pulling the engine. If you don't have the FSM, click here and download it in PDF format for free.

 

ive done it in under an hour, super easy

 

Remove fan shroud, remove wires, remove PS/AC bracket, remove coolant lines, remove fuel inlet, unbolt exhaust, remove air inlet, unbolt starter, unbolt trans, unbolt motor mounts... that should be it...

Most importantly... do it safely! Properly set the car on jack stands, use wheels chalks etc... Set a cinder block or something under the tranny so it doesn't fall on top of you.

 

Tip - Unhook the wire harness from the ECU inside the car. There will be another 2 connectors on up the footwell a little as well. Push those out through the bulkhead, and just pull the harness out with the motor. Saves a ton of work - you can put the motor back in with everything bolted up except maybe the intercooler, and just through the wires back through the hole and plug them in inside.

Another tip - Getting the motor back on the tranny, if you don't pull the tranny with it, isn't as hard as some people will have you believe. Just use a bit of clutch spline grease to coax in into place.

 

thanks again. no leaving to pick up the car. will keep you postet how it works out.

 

status: everything worked out nicely.

just one problem. the arm of my engine lift is too short. i will have to make a longer one.




here (http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...e_removal.html) was told to drain the coolant from the engine block. but i did not find where to drain it. it said intermediate iron - drivers side. can someone point me where i should find the drain-bolt.

 

or use a shorter chain

There is a bolt in the middle of the middle 'Iron' (Between housings 1 and 2) . It think its a 4 sided plug..(looks like a bolt with a square head)..

 

just wrap a big *** rope around the engine and the tranny.


thats what i did.

 

when i pulled and reinstalled my motor i couldnt use the leveler else it would nto reach. I just used two chains over the main hoist hook at about the right angle.

 

problem solved. i bought a longer steel "pipe". for my engine lift. so everything worked out nicely. best 2€ is spent in the last weeks i guess.



also found that drain plug. i also began to remove the attached parts.

after checking parts prices at my local mazda dealer. i think best would be to find a compelete working engine block. someone have one spare?

but first i will look whats inside the engine. pre owner told me first alle the water wanted out. then he shut it down. when he started it again it made metalic grinding noise.

but i can easily and nicely spin it with the hands.