On primary and secondary I ported mine "up" and "out" about as far as I felt comfortable doing without hitting water jacket or getting too far into corner seal path. I tried to keep the port closing similar to stock port.

On exhaust, I basically enlarged to match the steel inserts.

Mike

 

That would cause problems. I left the tape there until I had to assemble the rotors. I put vasoline on the side seals and corner seals. It holds up pretty well and it will burn up when the engine is started.

I would highly recommend you get a junk housing or be REALLY careful. Don't over do it. Best of luck to you. I feels better you do the work yourself. But if you're uncomfortable with it, I would suggest you send it to an experienced porter.

you poor bastard. how could you work in there. after kicking and stepping on crap. I would kill myself.

I did not port my primarys. I wanted to keep some of my low end and will not affect idle quality. Hopefully all works out well.

 

update pics. as promised.

 

Misc Info

Engine rebuild includes:
New Mazda Apex Seals & Springs
New Mazda Oil Control Rings
New Mazda Oil Control O-Rings
New Mazda Side Seals & Springs
New Mazda Corner Seals & Springs
New Mazda Oil Pump
New Mazda Rotor Bearings
New Mazda Stationary Gear Bearings
New Mazda Needle Bearings
New Mazda Thrust Bearings & Washers
New Mazda Oil Chain
New Mazda Gasket Set
Side Housings Lapped by Racing Beat
Injectors Cleaned and Flow Tested by RCEngineering

The bill added up fast.

 

Looking good man. I can't wait for my housing and irons to get back so I can build my engine. I have not ported anything before, so I didn't want to risk it. I sent them to Brian Cain at BDC. I need to find some junk housing so next time, I will do it myself.

Bills seem to add up really fast when you build a motor.

 

At least you guys have a garage...

 

I feel much better now. Glad I'm not the only one with a cluttered garage. (mine is worse). Good job on the garage!!! Don't know enough about the porting to comment. I will be learning soon enough. I like all th pics!!!

 

Well, this is what my garage looked like before I took the engine apart. Its accumulated crap since then, as you can tell.

 

Nice Engine Stand Sideways7

 

Everything looks pretty good, congradulations. Hope you don't end up like me. Every year I pull my engine to change porting, clutch etc... I can't seem to help myself, constantly want to change everything.LOL.

Brent

 

You should have less endplay if you lapp the side housings.

 

Lapping the irons has no effect on end play.
That's strictly a function of the thrust plate, thrust bearings, & the spacer sleeve in the middle.

Mine was .0035" too much, so I had to grind down the spacer.

 

ditto what Sureshot said, the only thing it would affect is the position of the rotors on the e-shaft and obviously a slightly shorter block, heh.

 

engine is IN. now i have more work ahead of me.

 

more.. theres my buddy that's been helping me with the rebuild. he builds engines at his work. this was his first rotary. he wont admit it now but you can tell he loves it. LOL. without him, i would be no where near as done

 

thats it for now.

mating the transmission and engine together was a bitch. next time, the engine and transmission is coming out together.

 

How do you guys figure lapping doesn't effect end play? It shortens the motors overall length, so unless your eshaft shortens itself automatically, you'll have more end play right? Fill me in if there's something I'm missing here.

Brent

 

Thanks. I was orinally going to prop it up so it was in the correct position to take apart, but I couldn't do it in a way that I thought was safe enough. I ended up just putting it on the floor (by hand, which I don't recommend) to take it apart, as seen. I am aware that is not the correct order to take it apart, but they don't always cooperate when in this position.

 

I don't know what SureShot was saying but lapping your housings, you should have less end play. Not more. When you lapp the housings, you will need a thicker spacer because of the shorten block. That how I understood it. I could be wrong but when I was working on my engine. I was left with no endplay. I had to get another spacer.

 

Yes, a thicker spacer to take up the extra end play from shortening the block. Anyway, didn't mean to jack the thread. The reason I even posted is that if you reuse all the same parts and all of a sudden you have no end play, there's something wrong.

Brent

 

A late suggestion for sideways7:
When handling the irons & housings, keep them on a wood or cardboard surface.
When you put them on a hard floor it's easy to ding the oil pan sealing surface & the corners of the side sealing surfaces.

There is only one end-play & position limiter.
It's the thrust disc that bolts to the front plate.
The spacer sleeve between the torrington bearings sets the end play.