ok here's my delema. i spent the last week rebuilding my s5 motor. i installed it yesterday after work. i started it and it started right up. my brother told me smoke was coming from the engine bay so i got out and he sat in the car. i noti9ced the smoke was coming from the down pipe that he didnt tighten down properly. i then notice a vacuume line was not conected. so i connected it and he turned off the car. he said it reved up to 4g. after yelling alot i tried starting it again. put no luck. i unflooded cleared the cpu. checked spark, fuel. i also scanned for codes and got #2, crank positon sensor. also i noticed that the coolant sensor near the oil filter housing was broken (the connector). i can't get it started and i need all the help i can get. i need this started by mon. for work. i wont be back on till tomorow. got to go to the hospital, but im going the check up tomorow.

 

bump

 

Probably flooded. Pull the plugs, see if they're wet, and we'll go from there...

 

CAS code is bad.
If the CAS is bad or disconnected, the ECU has no idea how fast the engine is spinning.

Does your tach jump when you're cranking?
If not, something is wrong.


-Ted

 

well when i first cranked it i disonected the cas so i could prime the oil. i think it just stored the code im going to try clearing the cpu. oh and the tach does move but i noticed today that the main pulley was wobling. i know i gunned it on and used tread lock. maybe the ac compressor belt was too tight.

 

ok, i fixed the coolant sensor and tried starting. no luck. so i cleared the cpu and had my brother push me in his car and it worked. after driving it for 2 miles i threw a code 17 (o2 sensor). the car also won't idle. i know i sent the timming close after the rebuild but i cant check it with a light because it isn't idleing. also all the vacuume hoses are hooked up right. i need this car to idle to properly tune it. i think it might have to do with the o2 sensor but befor the rebuild it worked properly. is there something different i should check first or something i don't know about???

 

ok i checked the o2 sensor and its within specs. i the car ran fine other thatn running on 1 rotor. now i have to pop start it to start and it won't idle. please help.

 

The inop rotor could be flooding out. Sometimes adjusting the CAS by ear helps (get it as close to idle as you can, and adjust the CAS until she's as smooth as you can get her at this point). O2 sensors will throw codes if not warmed up, and rpms go over a certain point (like taking her for a drive). Is the main pulley still wobbling? Get some crap under there when bolting it down?

Rebuilds with used rotor housings are like this sometimes, you just gotta have patience and try to put all the miles you can on her until she'll idle...

 

allright i had my brother get it as close to idle as posible, around 900rpms, and set the timing. i car sounds great at 2g and up but i cant hold it at 1-2g its ethier real close to idle trying to quit on me or its at 2g and above. it sounds better after checking the timming and it started up cold by its self this morning its just trying to get it to idle. also i didnt put on the heat cover for the exaust manifold and i stripped 1 of the studs for the downpipe to exhaust mani. its leaking a bit. will this cause a problerm in the future

 

i found 1 vacuum hose missing. there is 4 ports on the lower intake mani and there is only 3 hoses hooked up im missing 1. i don't know where the hose is. its either the 1st or 2nd from the fire wall. i looked in the fsm but its not clear. please help fat i want to break this car in

 

bump for quick help

 

It might be a nipple for something you don't have (i.e. cruise control)...For now, anyway, plug the sucker off at the manifold if all you want to do is run the car...

 

ok, i cant find any vacume hoses so i gues its for something i dont have thanks for your help wayne